When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Getting a plan together for lowering a '79 F100 about 3" in the front, 4" in the rear, and had a few questions.
Looking at various kits, I see some with:
Lowering shackles and hangers
Lowering shackles, hangers, and springs
Lowering shackles, hangers, springs, and increased spring rate shocks
Lowering shackles, hangers, and I-beams
Some research seems to suggest that if I go with shackles and hangers, the front will be higher or level with the rear, which I don't want.
With Lowering shackles, hangers, and springs, the stock springs will be compressed and the camber will be off without bending the I-beams.
Lowering shackles, hangers, springs, and shocks will lead to a good ride, but the camber will be off and without bending the I-beams, camber will be off.
Lowering shackles, hangers, and I-beams will lower everything and keep a good camber.
Looks like you have a grasp of it. Lowering a twin eye beam Ford truck in front by 3 inches .... you can do it easy enough, but without bending eye beams or getting lowering replacements, the camber will be a mess.
You do have the gist. Anything that drastic would need replacement beams to keep it aligned and a pleasure to drive. These trucks are finally getting the attention they deserve from the aftermarket, so more options than we have had before.
I did the DJM kit some years ago. Rides great. There's a suspension company that has a better kit now. Does away with the front beams and uses a rack and pinion setup. Not the Crown Vic swap. I'll look them up and post. Might be worth a look.
I did the DJM kit some years ago. Rides great. There's a suspension company that has a better kit now. Does away with the front beams and uses a rack and pinion setup. Not the Crown Vic swap. I'll look them up and post. Might be worth a look.
This is gorgeous and I'm not usually a lowered truck man. What are the specs on your wheel / tire combo? Backspace, width etc.
Wheels are Wheel Vintiques 62 series O.E. primered wheels.
#62-585504 4" back spacing.
Ordered from Summit Racing.
I had them powder coated semi gloss black and added the baby moons and trim rings. Trying to keep it a little old school. I personally don't like the big wheel and rubber band tire looks.
15x8 wheels
Tires are 235x75x15
REAR: Moving the axle from below the springs to atop the springs will require relocating the spring perches. That is usually done with new spring perches welded in place and careful consideration of pinion angle. C-notching and boxing the frame in this area may also be required. Welding required.
FRONT: Investing in professionally done dropped beams/spindles should be accompanied by careful evaluation of all related components: bushings, brakes, linkage, springs and even the steering gear and column. It's a coordinated system so is only as safe and satisfying as its weakest link.
Fleet, I didn't want to cut the frame and do the welding. I kept the original rear springs. Just added the shackles and hangers. On the front, I did the DJM drop beams. I didn't cut my front springs. Had the front end aligned after the install and haven't touched it since. You could go the other route if you want it lower, but I didn't want to take it that far. It rides great to be an old truck.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.