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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Need 351W rebuild help

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Old Mar 5, 2023 | 10:01 PM
  #1  
FordWindsorLife's Avatar
FordWindsorLife
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Mountain Pass
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From: Wichita
Need 351W rebuild help

Alrighty, a big issue just popped up. First off, this is my first engine rebuild. First thing she started like a dream, very powerful. Oil pressure guage showed oil pressure. Everything was working as it should, after adjusting timing. Started break in procedure. Following Edelbrocks hydraulic flat tappet cam break in, 2500 rpm for first 10 min, 2800 rpm 10 min after that, 2000 rpm last 10. Got past the first 10, a little over half way in the 2nd part lost oil pressure, I immediately let off the the throttle and she came stuttering and died before she could idle (my wife caught all this on camera last second) *first video*. Honestly with how she died seemed like it overheated. I tried starting her up, and she wouldn't even crank. After 18 minutes tried starting her again, and she cranked up like a dream. No weird sounds, and if she would not of shut down like she did I would never of thought that she had a problem. That's when I noticed the massive amount of oil coming out of the exhaust, a big puddle, probably about 1/4 of a quart. The hotter she got, the more oil started coming out. After I started her after the shutdown, she struggled to report any oil pressure (2nd video).
After letting her cool down further, probably about 35 minutes. She started up again like a dream, she had full oil pressure. However was still leaking out of the exhaust, and was now having a rather good bit of crankcase pressure. It was pushing the oil out of the dipstick, as well as bubbling oil past the distributor seal. Needless to say, I am slightly distraught after today. From my inexperience this would probably be a issue with the piston rings correct, compression and oil? Any help on this matter would be very much appreciated.

Will probably have to tear it all down again.

Thanks to any who can help!
 
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Old Mar 5, 2023 | 11:41 PM
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88n94
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From: South Dakota
My first question would be, did you make sure the cooling system was totally refilled? I know this is tricky without running the engine. Yes I saw your temperature gauge only past half way in the second video and also that wouldn't explain the loss of oil pressure.

What all did you replace and measure when rebuilding the engine? Kind of a mystery what your problem is. I'm sure you will have lots of views and questions tomorrow.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2023 | 11:59 PM
  #3  
FordWindsorLife's Avatar
FordWindsorLife
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From: Wichita
Originally Posted by 88n94
My first question would be, did you make sure the cooling system was totally refilled? I know this is tricky without running the engine. Yes I saw your temperature gauge only past half way in the second video and also that wouldn't explain the loss of oil pressure.

What all did you replace and measure when rebuilding the engine? Kind of a mystery what your problem is. I'm sure you will have lots of views and questions tomorrow.
Parts I have replaced:
Camshaft: Edelbrock #2182
Crankshaft: Reused and was within spec (had a machine shop check it out).
Main bearing: .020 Under (machine shop checked it out)
Rod bearings: .020 under (machine shop checked it out)
Valve Covers:
MRG-9804 (baffles removed due to height of Rocker arms)
Cylinder Heads: DO0E-C heads (replaced all valves, and springs).
Lifters: Edelbrock Lifters, came with camshaft
Exhaust Headers:
SUM-G9036
Timing Chain: CLO-C3057K
Pistons: SLP-H336CP60
Pushrods: reused old ones, were the correct length and nothing was wrong with them
New valve stem seals


Im worn out, there is probably more. Of course all new gaskets. But a big chunk was reused, distributor, etc. Hope this helps narrow things down. And yes, Cooling system was completely topped off, and was allowed to purge itself of any trapped air bubbles before capping it.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2023 | 12:37 AM
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Double check your ground cable between the battery negative post and the engine block, and between the battery negative post and the body. Also check the oil pressure wire terminal on the oil pressure switch near the oil filter.
As you might know, these trucks don't have a real oil pressure gauge. so you can't tell how many psi you're oil pressure is at. Ford just installed a 7 psi switch. If you have more than 7psi, the gauge moves to the center. If you have less than 7psi, the guage moves to the full left.

Your engine will tell you if you don't have any oil pressure. It'll get very rattle-y for a few minutes before it seizes up.

I can't explain the oil-out-the-exhaust problem, but double check you oil level. There's a chance your dip stick is not fully seated (or wrong dio stick) and you accidently overfilled your crank case.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2023 | 09:33 AM
  #5  
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hobohilton
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From: Northwest
I would suspect heads / intake manifold / pinched gasket or broken gasket. Sucking oil in from under intake manifold.
I would not run the engine any more. You have enough symptoms to diagnose what is happening.
Pull the plugs and label which one has excess oil on the plug.
Get back to us.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2023 | 11:07 AM
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88n94
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From: South Dakota
I got to thinking if the oil didn't drain back into the oil pan, fast enough, from the valve lifter area or more likely the rocker arm area, that would cause the loss of oil pressure. And if the rocker arm area, that may cause the oil sucking down in the cylinder and out the exhaust. Just a stupid thought.
 
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