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I obviously have to replace the ignition switch housing. My question is, is there an easy way of doing this? Any tips or tricks? I want to replace this so I can finish the engine compartment wiring. I'm hoping the under-the-dash
harness works without any issues.
That wiring looks compromised. No way I would trust it. To get the ignition switch out, pull it toward you and twist the escussion a 1/4 turn and it will come out. Takes a fair amount of force.
That wiring looks compromised. No way I would trust it. To get the ignition switch out, pull it toward you and twist the escussion a 1/4 turn and it will come out. Takes a fair amount of force.
the wiring is shot. I have a new harness I’m installing. Thank you for the tip to getting it out.
While that is one of the steps involved you can't do that step unless the center lock cylinder has been removed first. To do that you either need a key, pick the lock or drill it out.
While that is one of the steps involved you can't do that step unless the center lock cylinder has been removed first. To do that you either need a key, pick the lock or drill it out.
Lucky for me, I have the key. Thank you for the step by step. That helps a lot.
FYI: When you get a replacement switch (most auto parts stores have it or can order it to pick up that day or next), you can reuse your lock cylinder in it. That way you keep the same key.
FYI: When you get a replacement switch (most auto parts stores have it or can order it to pick up that day or next), you can reuse your lock cylinder in it. That way you keep the same key.
Tom
Good point. I ordered a replacement this morning from Dennis Carpenter. Do you know how the ignition switch sits in there. Is there a washer and nut to hold it to the dash or what? everything looks a little melted to really tell.
The bezel holds the switch in place in the dash. That's what that 1/8 turn is about. The bezel locks to the front of the ignition switch using a combination of a fairly short but stout spring and the notches inside of the bezel that the ignition switch nubs lock into. You can't see those details until it is removed, but here's some pictures that may help.
You might be able to make out one of the nubs on the ignition switch next to the spring. Also, and the manual says this, to remove it's a counterclockwise turn "from the terminal end" - so make sure you push against the spring pressure and then turn it the correct direction - clockwise if you were sitting in the driver's seat looking at it. The spring is so stout what I do is put a stiff stick or dowel against the ignition bezel and wedge that against the seat or back of the cab if the seat has been removed. That holds the bezel firmly in place so you can focus on just pushing in and turning the switch. If the bezel moves outward at all due to the spring pressure, then you can't get it undone as easily and will be fighting it.
Sorry for the repeat, didn't see TA's post until after.
Read the manual section that was posted above. No nuts or anything. IIRR there is a spring between the switch and the dash that keeps pressure the switch. Also, at least on my switch, I needed to hold the bezel tight to the dash when I pushed the switch toward me to twist it.
Sorry for the repeat, didn't see TA's post until after.
Read the manual section that was posted above. No nuts or anything. IIRR there is a spring between the switch and the dash that keeps pressure the switch. Also, at least on my switch, I needed to hold the bezel tight to the dash when I pushed the switch toward me to twist it.
Hope this helps,
Tom
It helps a lot. Thank you!! The more information I can obtain, the better.
While that is one of the steps involved you can't do that step unless the center lock cylinder has been removed first. To do that you either need a key, pick the lock or drill it out.
Any tip or tricks to getting the ignition switch back in. I can’t seem to line everything up, push and twist at the same time. I feel dumb, been trying for a couple hours.
Try doing it a few times with it out of the truck - just in your hands - you can even remove the spring temporarily to make sure the bezel and switch play very well together - then add the spring into the equation Once you get a real good feel for it working without the dash panel in the way you should be able to proceed one way or the other once you have practiced some. You may find out it doesn't work well due to something being malformed (sometimes the case with reproduction parts) - I call it dry fitting the parts outside of the truck. Sort of like building a plastic model. You don't apply the glue until you're sure the parts fit well together. No actual glue in this case but you get the idea.
You can also use the stick (broomstick diameter works well) to hold the bezel in place while you push in and turn the switch. A helper could hold the stick firmly in place. One thing I'll note is you should set aside the lock cylinder and key for now. That's the final step after you get the bezel and switch/spring reinstalled. I figure that goes without saying but I said it anyway. So, all you have to line up is the bezel and switch to start with.
Try doing it a few times with it out of the truck - just in your hands - you can even remove the spring temporarily to make sure the bezel and switch play very well together - then add the spring into the equation Once you get a real good feel for it working without the dash panel in the way you should be able to proceed one way or the other once you have practiced some. You may find out it doesn't work well due to something being malformed (sometimes the case with reproduction parts) - I call it dry fitting the parts outside of the truck. Sort of like building a plastic model. You don't apply the glue until you're sure the parts fit well together. No actual glue in this case but you get the idea.
You can also use the stick (broomstick diameter works well) to hold the bezel in place while you push in and turn the switch. A helper could hold the stick firmly in place. One thing I'll note is you should set aside the lock cylinder and key for now. That's the final step after you get the bezel and switch/spring reinstalled. I figure that goes without saying but I said it anyway. So, all you have to line up is the bezel and switch to start with.
Thank you. I missed the broomstick method in the earlier post. Coming out was easy. Going back in, not so much.
