This is probably longer than it should be but I want to try to get as much pertinent information upfront.

1966 F-100 F10AK772xxx

Backstory:
I bought this truck about a year ago and have been tinkering and driving it off and on. It's previous life, I was told, was on a ranch in SE Colorado and I have no reason to doubt it. Since it had not been inspected in Texas, I initially got lights rewired, swapped some to LED, and general got it to pass inspection. During this time I spent a good amount of time here learning. One of the things that first jumped out at me while reading through the forum was the need to get rid of the original single pot master cylinder. I figured since I was going to replace the master cylinder I'd go ahead and put on a booster and do a total brake job. I didn't have any real desire to upgrade to discs since this is not a daily driver and will likely never see 3000 miles a year.

Issue:
I figured it was mandatory to get the drums checked and turned so I started on the rear and pulled off the drums. They popped off the hubs like I expected. Driver's front was next and the drum popped off the hub just like the rears. When I got to the right front the drum wouldn't budge. I heated it, beat it, and then read on here that Ford thought it would be a great idea to press the drum on the hub and studs for three model years (what years beside '66?). I started trying to figure out what was going on and what to do. The driver's drum looked newer (yet maybe still decades old) so I figured at some time they replaced the drums and studs since the studs didn't have any knurling to press into the drum. Now I was trying to figure out how to do the same on the other hub, after all, it would be nice to have drums you could take off. I started looking closer at the drums and the mounting flange on the driver's drum was thinner. Now I start trying to find part numbers and figure out what drums and studs I'd need. Upon closer inspection I noticed the hubs were different even though they seem to be painted the (original?) shade of red. The right hub looked a little beefier and had a couple of ridges on the barrel(? where the bearing seat). The driver's hub had also been machined thinner (??) on the outer backside 1/4" of the flange. Now I'm really confused and started trying to find any information that I could bring here.

In short, I'm almost positive I have a hub from a different year or model.

The Info: High confidence in characters unless in ()

Left front hub - C4TA 1106 DKH56390 264
Right front hub - C-6TA-1106-BKHE58955 1300
My very short researching shows the left to be 1964 initial introduction while the right is 1966. Does this make the left a 1964 or, maybe, a 1965 hub?

Left front drum - FOMOCO 51565 KH 50347
Right front drum - FOMOCO 58957 KH L21.6(8?)
I noticed that "KH" shows up on the hub and drum. Any significance?

Left front studs - "A" stamped on flanged end
Right front studs - "F" stamped on flanged end

The question:
What are my options? Is there a hub that fits that allows for the drum to be separated easily. I'd be happy to have a sister hub to the driver's side. Are there other years or models that I can pirate front hubs off of? The imposter hub seems to work just fine and from looking at it has been doing fine for a looong time. Is it possible that the miss-match is OEM and they used old stock on a new model year. (I know this is probably unlikely but they did it with beds)

The kicker:
I need to get this thing back on it's feet in fairly short order but still need to be economical. Two things that rarely go together. We are going to use it as a farmers market truck and the season starts soon.

Right front hub (assumed original)


Left front hub w/ machining


Left front drum

 

1964- 1967 hubs are the same. Don't mess them up they are unobtainium.
Anything stamped on the stud is the just who made it.
The drum that came off is likely not correct or the hub has the wrong studs in it.
The only reason to separate them is to replace the drum. In that case you need to press the studs out and hit the drum with a BFH. Then put the new drum on the hub and press in NEW studs.
If the drum needs turned it should be done as an assembly along with the hub.
As ND said a million times Ford only sold the drum and hub as an assembly.

 

Exactly what Crop Duster said. I just replaced my entire brake system on my 1965 F100 and learned all of this in the process. A couple of learning points...when I pressed out my hubs, the machine shop applied the pressure to the center of the assembly/hub instead of the studs so I didn't replace my studs. I DID NOT have the new drums pressed onto the hubs. I assumed that once I tightened the spindle nut and lug nuts down that would suffice. I think I was wrong because when I got to around 35 MPH the front of my truck started shaking and almost shook my teeth out! I'm getting the hubs pressed into the new drums today, hopefully that will fix my problem since it's the only thing that's was reassembled differently.

Crop Duster, you mentioned above about having drums turned with hubs...do this need to be done when replacing drums like we're doing to balance the rotating assembly or just later down the line when the brakes get worn?

 

I would assume, a new drum would be concentric with the hub center. But since they are all probably made where English isn't their first language who knows. On the 79 disc I have on the front of my truck the hub and disc are one casting. I had to return 3 of them before I had two that were less than the maximum run out that NAPA claimed. One of those was machined so poorly it wouldn't hold the bearing cup in place. You will know if they aren't true to the hub if you get feedback in the pedal when you stop.