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LHey all- brand new here. Less than a year into the 6.0 experiment. I’m at my wits’ end with this thing.
Bought a 6.0 last year- a ton of work was said to have been done to it. The work was done.. just poorly. I’ve been chasing problem after problem with this truck. Last summer I was fighting low voltage. Replaced both batteries, replaced the alternator with a DB Electrical 200 amp alternator, did the “upgraded” wiring kit using 00 gauge wire. That fixed the issue- I was holding 13.7-14.2 at idle with no draw.
After a cold snap in January, the truck developed a hard start. It doesn’t turn over for more than 10 seconds, but will stumble and run like trash for about 5-10 seconds and smoke a little bit. Then clears up and runs fine. If the truck is cold (deltas below 130-ish) it had a sporadic stumble/miss, mainly going uphill. Last week I noticed the voltage had dipped to 12.5-12.7, but I had the headlights, fog lights, A/C and radio on. Truck was running fine, so I chaulked it up to the heavy draw.
It’s warmed up the last few days, the truck has gone back to starting almost immediately. Still stumbles for a split second, but then clears right up. I figured I had some stiction issues with my injectors and I was making plans to swap all of them. Now my FICM logic has started sporadically dropping to 12V before shooting back up to 13.5, my battery voltage is showing anywhere from 11.8-14V for no discernible reason… but my FICM main power has never dropped below 49V. The sporadic miss/stumble more present. The truck has never failed to start, never died and doesn’t have a hot no-start problem.
The only other issues are my “ICP” duty cycle is showing high- .28-.32 at idle when warmed up and the radio constantly cycles on and off- like it’s got a bad power connection. Monitoring on a SCT Livewire TS+. Truck had a clean GA title, no rust and no signs it’s ever had water in it. No CEL and, when it clears up, it runs fine. Not going to drive it until I figure something out- I don’t want to hurt the FICM or injectors if they aren’t already.
Any ideas? I want to get rid of it, but I wouldn’t get anything out of it with the shape it’s in and I don’t want to screw the next guy either.
Electrical issues are tough to chase down. Have you checked all your grounding points on the engine, cab, & frame?
It got much worse last night, which is why I posted. I haven’t yet- that’s on the list. I plan to check those and the pigtail running to the alternator. Since there was an apparent miss accompanying the electrical issue, I was wondering if it could somehow be FICM related.
Sorry.
There are a MULTITUDE of issues with 6.ohs.
A terrible money pit.
I wish you luck.
when they’re right, they’re great… but when they’re off, it is easily the most frustrating thing I have dealt with. Before this I had a 6.7 Cummins and a 6.7 Powerstroke. I decided to cash in my equity and buy something cheap… which has proven to be the most expensive decision yet.
As I advised on the other forum ................... you need a good scan tool. If you don't get one, then we will just throw out guesses until you get it right, and Split rims will be correct. OR, you could actually do some troubleshooting.
As I advised on the other forum ................... you need a good scan tool. If you don't get one, then we will just throw out guesses until you get it right, and Split rims will be correct. OR, you could actually do some troubleshooting.
A “good” scan tool isn’t something I have laying around. I’m not expecting anyone to diagnose my truck with 100% accuracy. I was just hoping someone could say “I had this happen, look here.. check this”. I’m not a mechanic nor am I as well versed in the 6.0 as many people here- hence why I sought advice. I’m not sure why you seem bothered by that.
Because I know these engines (as do many people here) and what it takes to economically work on them (ie proper troubleshooting). We see this all the time. Inexperienced people digging in on the position that they can troubleshoot with a tuner (ie SCT Livewire), even though they say they are at their "wits end". Yeah, right. A software download is practically instantaneous and an adapter can be had next day delivery from Amazon - for cheap. It may help or it may not, but it is the best approach.
I am not bothered in the least by someone at their wits end. I do hate to see the posts by people like Split rims, because it is poor troubleshooting that makes them a money pit, and it doesn't always have to be that way. Best of luck.
Because I know these engines (as do may people here) and what it takes to economically work on them (ie proper troubleshooting). We see this all the time. Inexperienced people digging in on the position that they can troubleshoot with a tuner (ie SCT Livewire), even though they say they are at their "wits end". Yeah, right. A software download is practically instantaneous and an adapter can be had next day delivery from Amazon - for cheap. It may help or it may not, but it is the best approach.
I am not bothered in the least by someone at their wits end. I do hate to see the posts by people like Split rims, because it is poor troubleshooting that makes them a money pit, and it doesn't have to be that way. Best of luck.
Alright, so you know these engines, I admit I don’t and ask for help… and you decide to be condescending and oddly passive aggressive. I never claimed to be “dug in” on troubleshooting with an SCT Livewire. If you read my post, I said that’s what I was using to monitor, not troubleshoot or diagnose. I mentioned the brand of monitor because I know there are many that claim SCT measures different parameters inaccurately.
If you read my post, you were advised to troubleshoot by pulling codes (ie monitoring alone is insufficient), and oddly that advice got no acknowledgement. We see people throw money at these things all the time. Unfortunately you seem to be on that path, or apparently have been on that path for a while, with "all the gremlins" etc. tgat you mention. I believe your own words were "insanely frustrating".
Form the Org:
Get ForScan or ForScan Lite. Tuners are poor code readers. Scan for codes. Post code numbers.
The PCM is designed to provide a lot of insight on these systems (including the FICM you asked about). Sometimes codes help direct attention to specific areas so specific troubleshooting can be done in response. Glossing over the "pull codes advice" indicates the apparent need for emphasis, assuming you truly are that frustrated and could benefit from the structured approach. You oddly mistook that for me being bothered - not so, simply providing good advice.
Providing a good process for resolving an issue provides future forum members a way to resolve similar problems, and this is more important than solving one individual's issues .........
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