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Ive got a 2002 f250 7.3 4x4 with 240k that I use as a spare/towing truck. Ive been having an intermittent stall over that past year or so where the engine would shut off like the key is turned off and will start back up immediately, almost always at stop lights. It has now become worse where it shuts off multiple times at the same stop light. I can leave the truck idling for 2 hours and it will not shut off. Truck does not have chip or tuner, I have a regulated return fuel system that was installed a year before this started happening and a 4" straight pipe, everything else is stock. Ive been throwing parts at it and justifying it as "its an old truck and it will probably go out eventually" mentality and now I'm stumped. I replaced most of these parts because multiple scanners from shops couldn't get a reading of what codes were showing.
Here's a list of parts I have had replaced along with the codes I can now receive from the PCM from Forescan. Any ideas on what can be causing this?
CPS (twice) from Ford
IPR and pigtail
ICP
IDM
PCM rebuilt
Passenger side UVCH (went out 3 years back or so)
New ignition
Battery terminals and cables
New starter
New relays PCM and Idm
I have checked the 42 pin and UCVH plugs for chafing and I have shaken every wire while the truck is running to make it stall and I have had no luck.
fuel pressure is at 65
Codes:C1284 - Oil Pressure Switch Failure
B1318 - The battery voltage level is too low. (truck was sitting for a couple weeks without starting, I have a draw somewhere)
B1352 - Ignition key in circuit fault
U1262 - SCP Data Link Fault
P1280 - Injection Control Pressure Sensor Circuit Low
P0472 - Exhaust Pressure Sensor Low Input
P1670 - Electronic Feedback Signal Not Detected
P0380 - Glowplug control circuit
P0541 - Manifold Intake Air Heater Circuit Low
Are all those codes recuring, as in when you clear the codes they come right back within a short period? Were all the engine management sensors replaced with Motorcraft parts? Parts store brands don't have the best reputation for compatibility or longevity. So far it looks like you've got a pretty epic round of part darts going on. You've pretty much replaced everything related to the codes listed, so that leaves us with wiring gremlin. Did you feed it after midnight or something? I guess I would probably start with grounds myself. I would scour bumper to bumper for any and all factory ground points and clean everything to shiny metal. DC systems are 100% dependent on the ground circuit and when those connections start getting weak weird things start happening.
Im still trying to figure out what I did to **** the gremlin off . I cleared the codes this morning and drove for an hour and the truck did not end up shutting off at all (shocking). all sensors are from ford. I will pull codes after the next time I get a stall.
All of the grounds from the batteries were replaced with new cables and connectors on both ends. I'll be checking for more ground locations later today.
Codes I got this AM:B1352 - Ignition key in circuit fault
P0380 - Glowplug control circuit
P1670 - Electronic Feedback Signal Not Detected
P0541 - Manifold Intake Air Heater Circuit Low
P0500 - VSS sensor circuit fault.
One thing comes to mind seeing the glow plug code. Oh wait just noticed this is an 02 so may not be relevant, but here goes. The earlier trucks w/ GPR's had the hot side of the relay coil daisy chained in w/ the hot side for the IPR valve so it could be a clue where to start looking. If the IPR valve loses power then the engine definitely will stall, she's the lynch pin to the whole HPO system.
I looked into the GPR yesterday it does run with the Ipr loom, i found that the relay was receiving power but not sending power to the glow plugs, never noticed any starting issues, probably because I live in south Florida. so I went and replaced the relay yesterday and cleared the codes. I went for a drive and the truck drove great for 20 min and then the truck shut off 3 times in a 5 min span. ran codes and I came up with the same codes but also a cam sensor code P0340, I checked the sensor wires for chafing and did not find anything. I've changes the sensor twice now, both grey from ford. Any other ideas on testing?
Those CPS wires make a long winding trip from the 42 pin down through the valley, past he relays, around the reservoir, down the front cover, around the water pump, and snaking past the EBPS tube to finally get to the CPS. A lot of opportunities to get damaged in there. I'd probably check the conintinuity of all the wires from the plug back to the 42 pin for starters. Wiggling and working the harness while testing would be good too. Some folks swear by the earlier model CPS sensors too. I tried one and noticed a little smoother idle but nothing earth shattering. If you don't currently have a spare Rockauto has the Motorcraft CPS for a 95 model listed at $20.
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