Front End Rebuild - TOOLS?
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6th Gear
Joined: Feb 2023
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Front End Rebuild - TOOLS?
Can anyone tell me what big sockets or special tools I'll need to tackle a front end rebuild on a '14 F250 4x4 (6.7L)? I have a lot of 1/2 drive stuff and a good torque wrench, but not the oversized sockets. I know I'll need a Pittman arm puller. And of course I'll get an alignment afterwards. What else will make the job easier? Any tips or pointers will be appreciated.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,487
Likes: 217
I think the hub nuts on the back are 18 mm. I can’t remember the rest but they aren’t much bigger. Anything else “ big socket “can be taken off with a adjustable wrench.
good hammer
pry bar
dont hit the nut. A lot of the links or ball joints can easily be popped off with a hammer blow to the knuckle. I usually remove the cotter pin, loosen the nut about 1/2 way up the threads then I pop the side of the knuckle with the hammer and they come loose. The nut keeps the end link or ball joint from coming out and dropping the piece off the axle and on the ground.
get some cheaper wire hangers or some bailing wire….hold the calipers up don’t let them hang by the brake hose.
unclip the ABS sensor wires
check the hoses for the auto hubs. They usually deteriorate
obviously use jack stands and level surface if no lift.
good hammer
pry bar
dont hit the nut. A lot of the links or ball joints can easily be popped off with a hammer blow to the knuckle. I usually remove the cotter pin, loosen the nut about 1/2 way up the threads then I pop the side of the knuckle with the hammer and they come loose. The nut keeps the end link or ball joint from coming out and dropping the piece off the axle and on the ground.
get some cheaper wire hangers or some bailing wire….hold the calipers up don’t let them hang by the brake hose.
unclip the ABS sensor wires
check the hoses for the auto hubs. They usually deteriorate
obviously use jack stands and level surface if no lift.
More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 661
Likes: 186
From: Lakeland, MN
Your going to need a good set of snap ring pliers, even then the snap rings behind the locking hubs are a little fun to get off. Stick a pry bar in the back against the stub axle and push it towards you while you try and stab the tangs of the snap ring, this gets you a gap behind the ring so the pliers get a good bite and hopefully you get them off in the first 5 tries. Big hammer so when you get the nuts off the tie rods and ball joints you can just smack them hard next to the taper and they vibrate out of the bore. impact wrench to get like the hub nuts loose. Take the tie rods off first and then you can turn the spindle hard in both directions and expose the hub nuts.
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 2,920
Likes: 515
Likely the vacuum hub seal driver. There are a lot of knock-offs on Amazon way cheaper than OTC. I assume they're ok but have not handled one.
You won't need a pitman arm puller unless you're replacing the steering box.
If you're replacing front axleshaft u-joints..... I personally don't dream of touching u-joints without a BJ press.
An air hammer is never a bad thing to have in general.
You won't need a pitman arm puller unless you're replacing the steering box.
If you're replacing front axleshaft u-joints..... I personally don't dream of touching u-joints without a BJ press.
An air hammer is never a bad thing to have in general.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 6,265
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From: IL
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Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2022
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These are the essentials for rebuilding the front end.
If it is 4WD, there is a special tool for installing the seals.
and the seals
The most difficult part is replacing the track bar ball joint. The above kits are a must for that. Did a complete rebuild on a 2012 last year. Don't forget the axle u-joints, those should be replaced while you have it apart.
If it is 4WD, there is a special tool for installing the seals.
and the seals
The most difficult part is replacing the track bar ball joint. The above kits are a must for that. Did a complete rebuild on a 2012 last year. Don't forget the axle u-joints, those should be replaced while you have it apart.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 2,920
Likes: 515
You can also get the Astro Goliath 78100 for the XL ball joint press. Can't find it on Amazon right now but Tools Plus is legit and $80
https://www.toolsplus.com/astro-pneu...ool-78100.html
https://www.toolsplus.com/astro-pneu...ool-78100.html
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 322
Likes: 12
From: Chattanooga
Is there a good place to go look up the part nunbers for all the ball joints, seals, drag and end links, etc for a 2015? It seems like most stuff runs to 2014, and I can't quite nail down whats changed from 2014 to 2015.
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6th Gear
Joined: Feb 2023
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https://www.suspension.com/ford-f250...nd-rebuild-kit
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,140
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And don't get the cheap one from Amazon or HF. Get a GOOD one. I'm not even sure I'd rent one from an auto parts store, I'm not sure theirs are strong enough.
I tried doing the work on my old '99 years ago. Assembly/disassembly was fine, not much work to it (I know the '14 is somewhat different being a different axle but the idea behind a lot of it is the same).
Where I ran into issues was my ball joint tool (I bought the cheap one) just...bent...and refused to move the ball joints. And once that was damaged I couldn't use it on my u-joints, and I couldn't use the old sockets and a vice trick because my vice didn't open far enough. Thankfully most auto shops around where I lived would take my components, press out the old stuff, and press in the new stuff for fairly cheap (I think I gave them $150 for about 2 hours worth of work?), so I dropped stuff off, ran a few errands, then picked it all back up later. The price was good enough that I never bothered buying those tools because I'd use them what, once every 5-10 years? Too pricey for a tool I wasn't going to use much.
I tried doing the work on my old '99 years ago. Assembly/disassembly was fine, not much work to it (I know the '14 is somewhat different being a different axle but the idea behind a lot of it is the same).
Where I ran into issues was my ball joint tool (I bought the cheap one) just...bent...and refused to move the ball joints. And once that was damaged I couldn't use it on my u-joints, and I couldn't use the old sockets and a vice trick because my vice didn't open far enough. Thankfully most auto shops around where I lived would take my components, press out the old stuff, and press in the new stuff for fairly cheap (I think I gave them $150 for about 2 hours worth of work?), so I dropped stuff off, ran a few errands, then picked it all back up later. The price was good enough that I never bothered buying those tools because I'd use them what, once every 5-10 years? Too pricey for a tool I wasn't going to use much.
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 2,920
Likes: 515
The key to a BJ press + u-joints is to preload it then whack with a hammer anywhere you can that won't just knock the press out of place. The vibration plus the preloaded pressing force is what helps those cups move.
That said, I've "sprung" a HF press before. Astro has actually stated that they work hard on the metallurgy to prevent this. They also state the warranty remains intact even when used with an impact wrench but the forcing screw must be greased (this is a very reasonable request).
That said, I've "sprung" a HF press before. Astro has actually stated that they work hard on the metallurgy to prevent this. They also state the warranty remains intact even when used with an impact wrench but the forcing screw must be greased (this is a very reasonable request).
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 7,984
Likes: 4,058
And don't get the cheap one from Amazon or HF. Get a GOOD one. I'm not even sure I'd rent one from an auto parts store, I'm not sure theirs are strong enough.
I tried doing the work on my old '99 years ago. Assembly/disassembly was fine, not much work to it (I know the '14 is somewhat different being a different axle but the idea behind a lot of it is the same).
Where I ran into issues was my ball joint tool (I bought the cheap one) just...bent...and refused to move the ball joints. And once that was damaged I couldn't use it on my u-joints, and I couldn't use the old sockets and a vice trick because my vice didn't open far enough. Thankfully most auto shops around where I lived would take my components, press out the old stuff, and press in the new stuff for fairly cheap (I think I gave them $150 for about 2 hours worth of work?), so I dropped stuff off, ran a few errands, then picked it all back up later. The price was good enough that I never bothered buying those tools because I'd use them what, once every 5-10 years? Too pricey for a tool I wasn't going to use much.
I tried doing the work on my old '99 years ago. Assembly/disassembly was fine, not much work to it (I know the '14 is somewhat different being a different axle but the idea behind a lot of it is the same).
Where I ran into issues was my ball joint tool (I bought the cheap one) just...bent...and refused to move the ball joints. And once that was damaged I couldn't use it on my u-joints, and I couldn't use the old sockets and a vice trick because my vice didn't open far enough. Thankfully most auto shops around where I lived would take my components, press out the old stuff, and press in the new stuff for fairly cheap (I think I gave them $150 for about 2 hours worth of work?), so I dropped stuff off, ran a few errands, then picked it all back up later. The price was good enough that I never bothered buying those tools because I'd use them what, once every 5-10 years? Too pricey for a tool I wasn't going to use much.
The key to a BJ press + u-joints is to preload it then whack with a hammer anywhere you can that won't just knock the press out of place. The vibration plus the preloaded pressing force is what helps those cups move.
That said, I've "sprung" a HF press before. Astro has actually stated that they work hard on the metallurgy to prevent this. They also state the warranty remains intact even when used with an impact wrench but the forcing screw must be greased (this is a very reasonable request).
That said, I've "sprung" a HF press before. Astro has actually stated that they work hard on the metallurgy to prevent this. They also state the warranty remains intact even when used with an impact wrench but the forcing screw must be greased (this is a very reasonable request).
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