I have a 2003 F250 I am chipping away at to replace my ole K3500 6.5

I attempted to reach @Sous in a related thread but apparently I haven't been vetted yet and need to make 5 posts, so in the mean time if anyone could direct me to a write up on the front end rebuild that outlines the procedure, special tool, torque specs... etc that would be appreciated! Thanks

 

I would like to say welcome again after already doing so in the post linked below.

Link: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post20098511

@F0rdc0wb0y and a few others just went through this process. The search function is not the best here, but you can use Google to search the FTE by following the instructions below.

Using Google To Search FTE (examples)

• Search For 7.3 Fuel Pump On FTE Via Google
• Search For 7.3L Purchase Advice On FTE Via Google

In addition, there is a wealth of information in the 7.3L PSD Tech Folder. You may need to read through the titles and make notes about which links are pertinent to your project.

We are looking forward to seeing your progress reports and helping out if/when we are able. Welcome sir!

Off topic: I had to laugh at your member name. We had a fella at my last active duty unit that we called "Old Man River". He was a great guy and I still stay in touch with him from time to time. He actually works at the ZF Transmissions facility in Gray Court SC now.

 

Thanks for the response Sous! I received your email also. HAHA yeah some of the young bucks at the gym who cant keep up with a guy 20 years older than them liked to take jabs and call me that! Thanks for serving! what was you MOS? I spent some time in the Army as a Tanker (M1 Abrams).

 

2wd or 4wd? Lots of articles discussing the dana 60 and how to disassemble and replace key parts. If your going simple you reuse the hub bearings and replace the U-joints and hub seal (replacing the u-joint after the fact will require the destruction of the seal 99 times out of 100). Take your axles to the store to match up the u-joints, some used same size u-joints both sides, others have a larger joint on the drivers shaft.

Toss the end of axle tube dust shields and replace with the newer axle end seals (dana 2014835). You'll need to polish up the axle where these ride and grease em up good so the axle spins nicely inside the seal.

If you find gear oil in the axle tubes, like its leaking, that full on sucks as the only way to get the inner, carrier area seals is to remove the carrier to get them out.

If you don't mind getting out to lock in 4wd, I would HIGHLY suggest installing manual locking hubs like mile marker 449ss or warn 38826, removing the vacuum fittings on the hub and installing 1/8 npt plugs, and then plug off the vacuum line up on the passenger side engine bay.

Lay the grease on thick on the brake sliding pins, they're notorious for sticking and binding. Brake pads should slide nicely in the guides, if not grind the tabs just a little so they ride nice and then grease the slides.

 

4wd/manual. Thanks for the info! I do plan on replacing all steering components from the pitman arm out to the hubs and the plan is to refresh diff oil & seals while I'm in that deep.