Sorry for the long post. I have a 1983 F-150 regular cab, long bed, 4wd, 351W. I bought it with ignition/desmog problems. The previous owner had changed the intake manifold and carb and removed the ECU. He was in the process of converting to Duraspark II ignition.
I have installed a new vac advance distributor, Painless Duraspark II harness, new Duraspark ignition module. Today I got it running. It runs rough and has some problems. I have to use a remote starter push button, and hotwire the start relay ignition connection to get it to run.
The key will not engage the starter. I turn on the ignition, the ignition light in the dash works. I use the remote start button to crank, and it starts and runs. The key switch will shut it off, but no crank. There is no 12v on the S or I terminals of the start relay until I hot wire it to the battery terminal.
I want to rewire the start/run ignition wires. Where do I start? I would think the ignition switch. I would probe the connector to find the 'always hot' wire and try to find out if I get 12v in out in start and run switch positions. Am I on the right track? Could it be as simple as the start relay?
I'm not the sharpest tack in the box, but I have worked on similar vehicles, but it's been 30+ years.
One more question. Is there a diagram of locations of junctions in the wiring harness? I have a copy of the 1985 F-150 schematics that I downloaded. I took them to Office Depot and had them printed in a larger format. I've traced out the Start and Run circuits but don't know how to find the junctions. Not all the wires were connected to the starter relay, and the ones that were, are the wrong color.

 

Well if you are using a start button on the S lug of the starter relay then it is not a bad starter relay.
I would not go rewiring the truck just yet as that can bring on a whole bag of worms!
I take it this has never worked since you have had the truck?

Do you have wires going to the S & I lugs of the relay?
If so swap them around and see if the key will then crank the motor. Maybe they got swapped and put on the wrong lugs?
No 2 wire swapped then I would go back to the IGN switch on top of the steering column under the dash.
I think you said you had lights on the dash so there is power to the switch just need to see if it is passing thru and out.

Because it is a little hard to get to the switch and the way it is installed it can fill up with dust & dirt and not work as it should, stiff to turn the key is just one issue, I would just replace it.
When getting installed there is a pin you put thru it to hold it in place and you have the key set to a place, forget if to run or ?
With it installed see if it will crank and if not then we need to see if you have power out of the switch to the relay.
I dont know the wire color or the pin location to check, DaveF I am sure will post them.
Dave ----

 

The key is only the lock cylinder. The cylinder moves the actuator which moves a rod that is connected the switch. The ignition switch is on top of the column under the dashboard. It doesn’t sound like you tried removing the switch and manually moving the switch to the start position to see if it works. I would do that long before rewiring anything.

 

You know what I just thought of ..........????
Do you have an auto transmission?
If so try turning the key to start and move the shift lever thru all the gears and see if that dose anything.
If not the NSS could still be bad so you need to see if you get power to the NSS when in start and if not then work back to the IGN switch.
If you have power find the pin going to the relay and AS A TEST jump the wires that is hot with key to start and to the relay and see if it will crank.
Dave ----

 

Thanks for the replies, I need all the coaching I can get, and don't have anyone near to help.
First, the transmission is manual. I think it does have a neutral switch, though. The engine did crank when I went to see it. It has not cranked since getting it home, except with the remote switch.
I am in the process of removing the steering wheel and lock cylinder to clean them and check the mechanical operation. I'm checking the auto parts stores for a replacement switch, and will change it regardless because of age. Then check the wiring at the switch and from the switch to the relay.
Thanks for all the support. At least I can get it running to move it if needed. That in itself is happy point!
Are there any fuses that would affect the crank/run circuits? There are some crimp on type wire connectors at the firewall near the location of the ignition module.

 

You truck original had a 3 connector, 2 large 1 small, start relay. Did you change this due to the painless wiring schematic. Getting power to the Red Wire on the the starter solenoid is a separate issue that you should deal with first.
THe painless directions assume you don't have a resistor wire (which you do have) and tells you to add a ballast resistor. Which are you using. What is your power source for the coil?
Jim
edit: Is this a California state truck? 1983 should be DS2 stock.

 

As far as I know, it is not a california truck. The PO said he was desmoging it. There was a non vacuum advance distributor in it. That's why I bought a reman vacuum advance distributor.The starter relay ( got slammed on another forum for calling it a solenoid...) is 4 terminal. 2 big, 2 small, installed by PO. The small ones are labeled S and I. I wired the Painless Duraspark harness as per the provided schematic.The truck had a screw terminal coil. I replaced it with a button connector to match the Painless coil connector. There was a red wire with a green or blue stripe connected to the I terminal on the starter relay. That is now connected to the Painless Duraspark harness. I am now thinking the ignition switch is faulty, compounded by the PO modifying the wiring.

 

Any of those above comments could be the starting problem. But one common problem that was not mentioned is the actuator in the steering column breaking. Could it have broken between you seeing it start and then you trying to start it lately? The chances are low but stranger things have happened.

If you want to eliminate this as a possibility, take the cover around the column nearest the cluster off. When you work the key back and forth you should see a rod moving back and forth on top of the column under where the cover was. Turn the key to start and then take some pliers and grab this rod and "help" it by pushing it forward toward the cluster. If the truck cranks when you help the rod, then the actuator in the column is broken.

 

I sort of did in a roundabout way by suggesting to manually move the switch separately from the lock cylinder and linkage. That would eliminate the column from the cause if the truck still did not start.

I don’t know why they would have argued with you about that. This is taken from a Ford website.

 

Look on the decal near the battery, for CA emissions .
I am still curious what you used as a power source for the coil positive. It would need to have power in both Run and Start positions of the key switch. Do your oil pressure and water temperature gauges work?
Jim

 

That lower cover is off. Do I have to pull the steering wheel to replace that actuator? Thanks again for the help.
I'll work on this the next warm day. I'm worn out today from cooking. The wife and I made Mexican Rice and Enchiladas for supper today!

 

Test it with the pliers first. You do not want to have to do this if you do not have to. It's a real pain. I suggest you look on youtube for Ford actuator replacement before diving in if you find it is broken.

 

Do you have a tilt steering wheel?

 

No tilt...

 

My understanding is that the part that fails is only in tilt wheel.
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