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Wow, Looks great!! Love the tailgate! Hahaha yeah gives me the kick I need to go ahead and decide on the structural adhesive I need to get 😩 before the rain come back! 🤣
Thanks
Then you should like this. Yes the chain hooks are not right in the picture.
I and most if not all here will say it is YOUR truck so build it the way YOU want it.
Now I did look over posts in all truck areas to see what others have done to their trucks and maybe steal ideals to maybe use on mine.
Adding the rear tank, not an option for flare side trucks, and molding the fill door to the fender to look factory I stole from others.
Dave ----
In newer cars and trucks, body metal is getting really thin and/or aluminum. Makes welding panels much more difficult. Body shops are switching to adhesives. My paint guru who owns a local paint supply house talked me into using adhesive on my truck's rusted out wheel arches. First attempt and so far couldn't be happier with the results.
I have a couple questions on your wheel arch replacement. Are the tops of the wheel arches squared off on all the styleside beds? So the replacement wheel arch is square topped to fit in?
What kind of fasteners did you use to secure the wheel arch into place? Looks like some kind of pop rivet or...?
I have a couple questions on your wheel arch replacement. Are the tops of the wheel arches squared off on all the styleside beds? So the replacement wheel arch is square topped to fit in?
What kind of fasteners did you use to secure the wheel arch into place? Looks like some kind of pop rivet or...?
I believe all styleside bed and front wheel openings are square top 1980-86. The replacement panels from Tabco match. I used only a portion of the panels.
The fasteners are Clecos. Made for this work. My paint guru loaned them to me. When adhesive has set you pull the Clecos and clean them in thinner. The holes are filled with fiberglass resin as bondo would absorb moisture.
Thanks
Then you should like this. Yes the chain hooks are not right in the picture.
I and most if not all here will say it is YOUR truck so build it the way YOU want it.
Now I did look over posts in all truck areas to see what others have done to their trucks and maybe steal ideals to maybe use on mine.
Adding the rear tank, not an option for flare side trucks, and molding the fill door to the fender to look factory I stole from others.
Dave ----
Holy cow! That’s awesome!!! How did you do that? Is the “Ford” a light or reflective paint? That just looks awesome! Man, that is such a good looking truck! I like to look over the post to get ideas to, and I love seeing everyone’s trucks and what they have done to it to make it their own! So I’m happy you shared the photos!
Well I got some 3M seam sealer, finished cleaning the cowl out, painted, than used 3M seam sealer. Seems to have sealed it up good. After some rain we got last night I noticed a small spot but idk if it was from the cowl being off still and the hood weather stripping to.
Back glass still leaking… unfortunately silicone didn’t help that.
But on the passenger side by the panel it has a small leak and on the drivers side to.
This might have been due to the cowl being off and no good weather stripping on. Because I’ve checked the cowl and it hasn’t leaked. This I’m not sure, because of the panels being off when I check the cowl for leaks it splatters in them or runs through the screw holes
Well I got some 3M seam sealer, finished cleaning the cowl out, painted, than used 3M seam sealer. Seems to have sealed it up good. After some rain we got last night I noticed a small spot but idk if it was from the cowl being off still and the hood weather stripping to.
Back glass still leaking… unfortunately silicone didn’t help that.
But on the passenger side by the panel it has a small leak and on the drivers side to.
Sounds like the cowl trench is sealed but you have some leaks coming into the side kick panels. Remove the panels and dry everything out. Might have to cover or garage your truck? Or wait for a dry spell...
When dry apply water using a small spray bottle or squeeze bottle to the area between the cowl and fender. There is a seam between the window post and the cab. It's seam sealed but sometimes leaks there. I used seam sealer in that joint and it stopped the side leak.
There is a recent thread on rear window sealing. Title of the thread includes rear window. Should be close to the top of the threads.
Check the 3M Seam Sealer for holes. It shrinks up to about 1/2 its applied volume. It can pull itself apart if applied too thick. It is best used for seams like this.
Where is the leak coming out of on the front? After experimentation I found my Ranger only made the pass side carpet wet when that side was parked down hill compared to the driver's side. I pulled the carpet back, and while it was raining I found it was coming from the seam from the floor/toe panel and the vertical kickpanel area. After investigating, I found this area is pretty much impossible to get to without pulling the fender and cutting the cab open. It's the air chamber formed on each side of the cab.
I didn't know if it would hold, but I let it dry out and slathered roofing cement from the interior on the corner of the floor/kickpanel all the way up the angled portion where you put your feet. It actually held and didn't leak for years after that, I was surprised. Trying to stop a leak on the "other side" of the problem usually doesn't work very well.
Holy cow! That’s awesome!!! How did you do that? Is the “Ford” a light or reflective paint? That just looks awesome! Man, that is such a good looking truck! I like to look over the post to get ideas to, and I love seeing everyone’s trucks and what they have done to it to make it their own! So I’m happy you shared the photos!
Sorry so late on the reply, it is reflective FORD letters I got on line, Ebay.
You can get the reflective in different colors but I wanted white to match the sides.
On the seams and sealing I think I used Evercoat and when dry was a paintable rubber type.
The I had replaced the floors & rockers and sealed the edges.
I first used a caulk gun to force the sealer in then when set up I used a brushable seam sealer.
Think on the cowl I used the brush on as I could not get the gun in there.
DaveF said he had another leak, my fenders were off and there is sealer from top to bottom behind the fender.
On the rear glass it looks like the rubber seal is dried out and needs to be replaced.
You may find rust that will need fixing once the rubber seal is pulled.
Now the issue is the rubber seal. Someone pointed out a post on this and the seals dont fit too good but yours is leaking between glass and seal and I dont know how that can be fixed other than replace it.
Dave ----
Check the 3M Seam Sealer for holes. It shrinks up to about 1/2 its applied volume. It can pull itself apart if applied too thick. It is best used for seams like this.
Oh shoot. Well hopefully it doesn’t shrink a bunch! Because the whole bottom of my cowl is the seam sealer!! I mean.. its a thick layer! Well it has 2 thick layers! Haha! 😂🤣 well so far it hasn’t shrunk any as far as I can see! Well…… time will tell.
Sorry so late on the reply, it is reflective FORD letters I got on line, Ebay.
You can get the reflective in different colors but I wanted white to match the sides.
Now the issue is the rubber seal. Someone pointed out a post on this and the seals dont fit too good but yours is leaking between glass and seal and I dont know how that can be fixed other than replace it.
Dave ----
Awesome. I’ll have to look them up. I’d like to paint my truck one day. But for now it’s the old oxidized blue with black paint spots to stop any more rust! 😂 oh my gosh the floor is a total nightmare I do not want the rest of my truck to end up like my floor!
On the back glass.. Yeah I had a bad feeling it would have to be replaced. As far as I can see there isn’t a bunch of rust……. HOPEFULLY. Two small holes under the outter seal.. But looks at my floor I wouldn’t be surprised if it was rusted bad 🫣 has anyone found any seals that fit good? Would I have better luck if a shop replaced it, or would the seals they got be about the same?
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
