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Hi All, Posted this in the FE forum as well and am spreading the wealth. I am replacing the timing chain and gear on a 1975 F350 with an unmolested 390. Though nearly rust free, the truck sat for a long time before I purchased it, and the radiator let go and was not worth repairing. Since I had that out, I figured I would fix the leaky front cover, and one thing led to another, so now everything is off the front of the motor and being replaced/resealed.
Truck came with the 2-piece eccentric and when I replaced the timing set (Cloyes 3029-x), the two-piece eccentric definitely binds and does not float/rotate like it did on the original set. The new parts did not indicate anything about the type of eccentric needed or accepted. Something seems off and I want to make sure all is good before I put it all back together. (new water pump, fan clutch, radiator, hoses, etc...) I went with the double roller because I figured I would upgrade and now it's a hassle. Manual indicated torque of 40-45 Ft/lbs and I set it at 40...still binding...added some Lucas/oil...still binding...so not sure what to do here.Outer piece will turn if the nut is disturbingly loose. If it matters, the original set did not have a washer behind the cam gear, and neither did the new cam gear...both had the spacer as an integral part of the gear. That much info was in the instructions/package. Am I tightening it too much? If it is loose enough for the outer ring to spin, it seems very wobbly.
Someone in another thread indicated something about changing to a one-piece eccentric. Can someone share if I need to or how I might do that, pros, cons, etc? A source would be super helpful too if someone knows off the top of their head. I am willing to purchase a different timing set if keeping the two piece eccentric is worth it. Pics of the situation below. Any help or advice is appreciated Original prior to removal, outer ring on two-piece eccentric definitely rotated easily New set with eccentric installed...outer doesn't rotate New set without eccentric installed original next to new Cloyes set What I put in
A lot of FE's just have a 1-piece eccentric, that's probably what your new timing set is for. I'd be worried about putting anything to space it FE's are known to have cam bolts work loose already. I ALWAYS loc tite it in.
You're probably going to have to get a 1 piece eccentric or relive the face of your new gear for clearance so the 2 piece can turn. I've never run into this problem myself , but I've never had a gear that looked like that.
The raised area on the original cam gear allows the outer piece to rotate. With the new cam gear it's completely flat (without the built up ridge area oblong shaped around the bolt hole). This flat surface allows the piece that's suppose to rotate to bind on the cam gear.
I have heard of someone placing a washer behind the eccentric to simulate the built up area. Allowing it to float and rotate.
LOCKTITE
I had this issue with a 400 build and double roller gears. Once I figured out the problem I bought another timing set with the built up area allowing my eccentric to rotate.
Ran into that before, took the gears back till they gave me the right ones. Looks like the factory set was higher quality than the new one. I also looks like a replacement.
Yep, that's an SA gear that Lunati sent. You can see in the pic that there's no boss for a two piece eccentric. I looked around, and couldn't find one in a double roller.
Thanks for all of the ideas everyone. I am leaning toward a one piece or the "standoff" solution. Ranger 140892, did you use a fender washer or something similar as a starting point? If so how thick was it? Also wondering if there were any clearace issues with timing cover I need to think about or how the fuel pump arm lines up? Thanks again
I don't think the thickness of a washer required would present any issues with the fuel pump arm. look at the wear on your eccentric you should be able to tell.
My concern would be the effect of the leverage it adds, the FE cam bolt doesn't need any more reasons to work lose. the 1-piece eccentric would be the sure fix.
I make the dowls out of the unthreaded part of a grade 8 bolt. that way I know what I have I don't trust the quality of some of the generic parts anymore.
All you need is .050" standoff, in order for the outside eccentric to spin. The spacer I made is .062" thick. Just 1/16". It's the same shape as the boss on the original timing gear, and it placed the eccentric in exactly the same forward position as the original gear did. So, it doesn't add any leverage to anything.
Thanks for all of the ideas everyone. I am leaning toward a one piece or the "standoff" solution. Ranger 140892, did you use a fender washer or something similar as a starting point? If so how thick was it? Also wondering if there were any clearace issues with timing cover I need to think about or how the fuel pump arm lines up? Thanks again
I used a piece of 16ga sheet metal. I needed .050" clearance, and the 16ga gave me .062". No clearance issues with the timing cover. I put Dykem on the eccentric, and mocked everything up, to check pump lever alignment. After rotating the crankshaft a bunch of times, I took it apart, and the lever marked the Dykem dead center.
