air intake problem
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air intake problem
Hi! I recently modded my air intake, and now my truck is idling rough, and doesn't seem to even have as much power as it had before.
I have a 1993 4 cylinder, 2.3L Ford Ranger. I replaced the stock air intake with a kit that included a K&N cone filter and a new metal tube. Everything fit together ok, -except- for a hose that came out of the exhaust system (for emissions control?). There was no place to put it into the new system. It ran so badly I finally extended the tube and put it as flush as possble against the filter (it entered the intake before the filter in the original setup). This runs fairly well, but I still notice the above problems.
Thanks in advance!
I have a 1993 4 cylinder, 2.3L Ford Ranger. I replaced the stock air intake with a kit that included a K&N cone filter and a new metal tube. Everything fit together ok, -except- for a hose that came out of the exhaust system (for emissions control?). There was no place to put it into the new system. It ran so badly I finally extended the tube and put it as flush as possble against the filter (it entered the intake before the filter in the original setup). This runs fairly well, but I still notice the above problems.
Thanks in advance!
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Connecticut
Welcome to FTE 93rangerg,
Where exactally does this hose come from + went to?
Is your vehicle carburated or injected?
Your symptoms suggest a deactivated EGR + carb venturi icing!
And...you are talking about 2 different things here, aren't you; a hose + a tube?
I want to get all the facts straight!
Everything fit together ok, -except- for a hose that came out of the exhaust system (for emissions control?).
It ran so badly I finally extended the tube and put it as flush as possble against the filter (it entered the intake before the filter in the original setup).
Your symptoms suggest a deactivated EGR + carb venturi icing!
And...you are talking about 2 different things here, aren't you; a hose + a tube?
I want to get all the facts straight!
Last edited by wolfen; Nov 15, 2003 at 09:27 AM.
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Doens't sound like the intake was made for that application. If it was, it would have the port for it.
I have seen chromed 'cold air' intake tubes with the ports for those other systems to gain the filtered air as originally designed.
I'd say return the tube since it has no access for the line that was orphaned.
I have seen chromed 'cold air' intake tubes with the ports for those other systems to gain the filtered air as originally designed.
I'd say return the tube since it has no access for the line that was orphaned.
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Sorry, I use "hose" and "tube" pretty interchangeably; they're both refering to the same thing.
My Haynes Repair Manual says it's injected.
Thank god for digital cameras.
This picture shows where the exhaust hose comes out of the engine:
http://web.umr.edu/~afreese/onea.jpg
a wider view so you know exactly where in the engine I'm talking about:
http://web.umr.edu/~afreese/twoa.jpg
and for the original:
http://web.umr.edu/~afreese/threea.jpg
1) is where fresh air was sucked into the air intake.
2) where the exhaust hose(above) hooks into the air intake.
3) where the filtered air connected to the block.
There actually couldn't be a "port" for that hose in the new system, as the pictures show, the hose attached in front of the filter, and since there isn't anything in front of a cone filter, there isn't a good place for it to attach.
My Haynes Repair Manual says it's injected.
Thank god for digital cameras.
This picture shows where the exhaust hose comes out of the engine:
http://web.umr.edu/~afreese/onea.jpg
a wider view so you know exactly where in the engine I'm talking about:
http://web.umr.edu/~afreese/twoa.jpg
and for the original:
http://web.umr.edu/~afreese/threea.jpg
1) is where fresh air was sucked into the air intake.
2) where the exhaust hose(above) hooks into the air intake.
3) where the filtered air connected to the block.
There actually couldn't be a "port" for that hose in the new system, as the pictures show, the hose attached in front of the filter, and since there isn't anything in front of a cone filter, there isn't a good place for it to attach.
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This is the filter itself, note the exhaut hose held up to it.
http://web.umr.edu/~afreese/four.jpg
Crud. All that wasted effort.
http://web.umr.edu/~afreese/four.jpg
Crud. All that wasted effort.
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 413
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From: Connecticut
Hi again 93rangerg,
Pretty smart of you to try that set-up!
Chalk it up to a learning experience + I'd still go w/ Richard4447's
suggestion.
Let us know what you do next so we can also help others w/ this same problem.
Pretty smart of you to try that set-up!
Chalk it up to a learning experience + I'd still go w/ Richard4447's
suggestion.
Let us know what you do next so we can also help others w/ this same problem.
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Senior User
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From: Connecticut
Well! here we go 93rangerg,
This is why I asked the question:
"carb venturi icing" = is only for carburated motors, yours has a throttle body.
"deactivated EGR" = yours may not be working to it's fullist because of the changed air filter, thus changing your intake vacuum + overall performance.
I suggest replacing the old unit (I know that is going to be a real pain in the butt!) and then check out your performance.
*I was wondering if the problem that you are having, would happen in a 2.3L because I was contemplating doing the same as you w/ my 2.3L.*
**These "little engines", along w/ this "new technology", makes it harder for us to be able to make any process improvements.
It takes so little to throw them off kilter!**
***I've heard that this K&N system does work on the larger engines after reading past posts on this subject!***
This is why I asked the question:
Is your vehicle carburated or injected?
"deactivated EGR" = yours may not be working to it's fullist because of the changed air filter, thus changing your intake vacuum + overall performance.
I suggest replacing the old unit (I know that is going to be a real pain in the butt!) and then check out your performance.
*I was wondering if the problem that you are having, would happen in a 2.3L because I was contemplating doing the same as you w/ my 2.3L.*
**These "little engines", along w/ this "new technology", makes it harder for us to be able to make any process improvements.
It takes so little to throw them off kilter!**
***I've heard that this K&N system does work on the larger engines after reading past posts on this subject!***
Last edited by wolfen; Nov 15, 2003 at 04:32 PM.
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From: FL
A freind of mine had told me that he left the snorkle (as he called it) off his wifes Ranger when he reinstalled the engine and it actually ran better/performed better. I have removed the one from my Ranger (94 2.3L, 5 speed) completely, installed a K&N air filter in the stock location and found that maybe it helped a little (anything extra from that gutless engine is welcome), it certainly didn't run worse. That hose provides heated air, which is controlled by a vacuum operated valve on the snorkle, by running it direct to your new air filter you are ingesting heated air all the time. Now by doing this, you have in affect richened the mixture because heated air is much less dense than cold air and have defeated any purpose for the Cold air induction add on.
It sounds to me like you have an induction leak, leaning out the mixture and or completely messing up the Mass air flow sensors input by allowing air to bypass it though a leak. You might try running the engine at idle and gently spray contact cleaner around the hose couplings, if there is a leak the engine will faulter, run rough and maybe stall out when the cleaner gets drawn into the engine through the leak, if so then you have found your leak.
Good luck
It sounds to me like you have an induction leak, leaning out the mixture and or completely messing up the Mass air flow sensors input by allowing air to bypass it though a leak. You might try running the engine at idle and gently spray contact cleaner around the hose couplings, if there is a leak the engine will faulter, run rough and maybe stall out when the cleaner gets drawn into the engine through the leak, if so then you have found your leak.
Good luck
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Where should I look for info on pulling codes?
I've been looking at the EGR stuff, and it does sound like a problem in it, possibly a dirty mass air flow sensor;
Under the "EGR Control System" heading in my Haynes manual, the very first words are "If a code is displayed" and I don't see any info there on getting codes. I've looked through the book, so if the info's there, it's hidden pretty well.
Thanks for all your help, guys!
I've been looking at the EGR stuff, and it does sound like a problem in it, possibly a dirty mass air flow sensor;
Under the "EGR Control System" heading in my Haynes manual, the very first words are "If a code is displayed" and I don't see any info there on getting codes. I've looked through the book, so if the info's there, it's hidden pretty well.
Thanks for all your help, guys!