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I've got a few issues with my frame as you can see in the pictures below. I need some pointers as I'm a novice welder. I have a HF flux core that I've used for several years, but also have access to a good MIG welder. For the bad spots on the horizontal plane, I'm thinking Just cut them out and cut some rectangles and butt weld back in place? Do I need to drill out the corners and make them rounded?
For the vertical spots, the metal is really thin, and one place, over the axle, has rusted through as you can see in the pictures. Thoughts on how to handle that? Maybe cut a plate long enough to extend to the good metal and weld it on the inside? I don't want to create a place that will cause weakness or trap dirt and make more rust. I'm open to opinions.
You are not going to like this but find another frame.
It has areas that are too thin and the shapes hard to make if you dont have the tools.
Then the MIG welders if it is not a 220 vilt unit don't even think of using it on a frame.
Dave ----
Haha. You're right I don't like that. Finding a frame isn't really that easy around here. Especially a 4x4. I should be able to cut out any shape I would need. I have access to a plasma cutter as well. Why would I need 220V to weld 1/8 or 3/16 metal?
You rust belt guys would save so much time and money if you'd just buy a rust free project.
It would be nice for sure. Just don't see rust free projects everyday and if you do the price is too high. Working on things like this is part of the fun.
Not sure on the end-goal here, but if you just want a safe repair I say cut it out, graft the appropriate sized pieces in, and then for extra insurance box the affected area of c-channel with 1/8" plate.
With truck frames I would go to a shop with a heavy duty Arc stick welder to get the penetration needed to attach sister pieces of metal. The welder needs to have experience working on frames to be able to effect a repair that will last. Cost will be the same with a top notch welder who can do the job properly.
I had a Toyota HiLux 4WD pickup truck with the solid front axle and had a front shackle for the leaf springs break loose from the frame. I had two different shops weld the shackle back into place and after it broke loose the third time I was more than 100 miles from the nearest town and would have needed to go on a twisty and winding mountain road. Fortunately I found a local backhoe operator with the proper welder and after he repaired the broken shackle the trucks was fine afterwards.
I have learned not to wing it and hope for the best when something structural is involved and if failure could result in serious injury or death for myself or my passengers or others on the roads. I am just funny that way.
I would make a patch as tall as the outside of frame rail and long enough to get to good metal with a bit of a fish mouth on both end and tack it on. Then make top and bottom piece tack them on so the corners have about an 1/8th inch gap so you are welding your patches together as well as well as the corners or the frame. i would used 3/16 or 10 ga mild steel a mig will be fine with proper prep work I would use gas and tine tune you welder on some scrap first. pre heat after tacking if you want more penetration.
That frames junk, not just because of the obvious holes, but all the pitting has reduced the thickness considerably all over. That section between the leaf spring mounts is always under bending force from the springs. Either replace it, weld in a rear frame section, or cut it off and build a new frame out of 2x3 SQ tube.
And the fact you think a 110V is OK for doing major, structural, frame repairs tells me you shouldn't be attempting it. A 110 can only safely do up to 1/8" in a single pass so you'll never get the base metal up to temperature and you won't get full penetration. You could do thicker material with multiple passes, but if you aren't experienced in this, you can make the joint weaker than a single pass.
This pickup is considered a rust bucket here that's why it's pretty cheap. but if you like rust repair wouldn't something like this be a better way to go? I bet the frame and everything is fine it just needs sheet metal work. rust free rigs are an option too but they're a little more expensive.
Yeah, that would certainly be a better way to go, but I'd have to have a whole lot more to put into it. I've got less than 1K in the one I've got. I have a nearly rust free cab and two fenders to put on it. Bed needs some floor work but solid. 8K plus shipping is a whole other story. There are always some nice rust free trucks in Washington it seems like
I've cut up better frames than that. If the front section is usable then you could cut a rear clip off another frame. Maybe something from a later model 2 or 4 wd could be made to work.
Finding a frame isn't really that easy around here. Especially a 4x4. I should be able to cut out any shape I would need. I have access to a plasma cutter as well. Why would I need 220V to weld 1/8 or 3/16 metal?
