What year and model truck? Can’t speak for the others because I am a supercab guy, but late model supercab has the same frame, from forward cab mounts to the rear, 4wd and 2wd. If the front is not chewed up, replace the rear section.

 

It's a 78 4x4 reg cab long bed

 

150, 250 or 350?
As I believe it will make a difference.
I would not want to use a 150 frame under a 350 truck!

You might get lucky and someone has a frame they want to give away just to get it out of their garage.
I did just that with a 80's 150 frame, wanted out and someone needed one.
They had to set up transport from NC to MI, I did help load it on a trailer.
I dont know what it run him but he had a good frame to work with at that point.
So ask "looking for a frame for a 78 F??? 4x4 reg cab long bed" and someone may have one cheap.
Dave ----

 

Its a 150. Sorry about that

 

I am an Iron worker, I possess several welding certifications. In response to your comment that a 110 welder cannot properly weld 3/16 steel I disagree. the machine will not create tbe needed heat, that is correct, but if you properly preheat the steel you can still use it to make the required welds. You can, in fact, make a 110v welder blow holes through 3/16" steel. I dont believe a propane torch will heat it sufficiently though, I would heat it with an oxy fuel torch using acetylene or propane for fuel. Heat the area to no more than 550°f, then weld. Use test pieces first to adjust the welder for the heat level in the steel to achieve full penetration, and properly bevel the edges. watch for undercut. If you have access to a 110v welder and an oxyfuel torch you have what you will need. It is easier with a 220 welder though. Once again, I am a multiple certified structural welder, certified in many processes. Including seismic structural fluxcore. I would not hesitate to repair that frame. Use the correct material though, those frames are high tensile strength steel, not mild steel. and source the correct wire for the material and a templ stick to check your preheat level. also read the wire, ask the steel supplier what the maximum interpass temp is to be certain, 550 is an educated guess. Good luck! You can't develop skills if you never try, just do the footwork and educate yourself first. And NEVER listen to someone who says it cant be done just because THEY can't do it. I have built rollcages, hot rod tube chassis, and repaired many rusted frames living here in Michigan.

 

There are commercial vendors who will build you a complete frame out of new steel. One vendor I read about uses 2" X 6" steel tubing that is bent by a special machine controlled by a computer so very precise.

OTOH you already have a perfect blueprint in the form of your old frame. Reproduce it in 1/8" mild steel. There are only six bolts (4 in cab, 2 for rad support) to mount the cab and front clip. The bed will take eight as I recall. This would also be an opp'ty to redesign the frame to make it suit your goals more closely.

Here is a search page that will get you started.

Not real cheap at $43K: https://roadstershop.com/chassis-and...-f-series-4x4/

 

Browse craigs list and facebook marketplace . I found a rust free frame in Montea ,VA even had the engine and transmission. So they are out there. Try G&B Auto Parts in Floyd, VA or
https://www.whitesautosalvage.com/

 

Just be aware that the VIN on the frame is authoritative in most states. Tha warranty plate on the driver's door is not.