I've gotten a lot of help from the various build threads here, so with appreciation I decided to offer up my own as well.

As mentioned in the signature, this is a frame-off restification of my 79 F-150. I'll add info as I go along - current status is getting the frame back together again.

I started off with using Rust Bullet and Eastwoood engine enamel for the frame and various parts. I documented my applications and observations here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...st-bullet.html

Prepped frame (Rust Bullet Automotive formula):

Painted frame (Rust Bullet Blackshell):

Some of the blue parts (Eastwood engine enamel)

Painted axle (RB Blackshell):

Transmission Crossmember bolted to Skyjacker 2.75" drop bracket (truck has a 4" or 6" lift, I've never been 100% sure which):

Factory bracket loosely attached to Skyjacker drop bracket:

New fuel tank installed. I used sections cut from a tire inner tube glued to the upper/lower straps as anti-squeek, worked fine. I tried Rustoleum hi-perf enamel, stainless steel color. Looks good but sprays exactly like a lacquer, down to the overspray dust. Not impressed with this stuff at all, so I topcoated it with satin clearcoat.

 

Like many folks here, I discovered that my truck also had the frame issues at the steering box area:


Repairing, the holes and grooves were welded in prior to welding on a reinforcement plate to each side:

1/8" plate welded to exterior side, unfinished here but you get the idea. THis moves the front shock mount out 1/8" which should not be a problem.

Other side with 1/4" plate:

 

very nice.

 

Man, I feel like a hack. Nice work!

 

LOL, thanks.

Here's the factory radius arm brackets bolted up to the Skyjacker brackets, resulting in the 2.75" drop. I may come back at a later time and weld the brackets together to avoid the bolted connection but I wanted to get the truck back together at ride height/weight before making that decision. It's still a pretty sturdy assembly as is. All bolts are Grade 8 with anti-seize applied. The outside bolts are 7/16, all others are 1/2.



The PO had installed the higher lift coil springs but the radius arms were bolted to the stock brackets at the stock height, resulting in excessive camber. I had taken an initial angle reading as a reference so I could compare the re-installed angle.

This is how it looked before I tore it apart:


Notice that the coil is slightly bowed to the front, it was even more noticeable with full weight of body/drivetrain:


The reference angle measurement before disassembly:


I will also use new 7 degree C bushings on the install. This was the condition of the old bushings at disassembly! I have no idea how they held together, they just fell apart when the radius arms came off.

 

Nice looking job you're doing, you didnt happen to buy that yellow 4x4 out of Nevada did you? I looked at one just like it via internet and even spoke to owner about it there a year ago roughly.

 

Nope, this was/is a Texas truck, bought it in 2003 if I remember right.

 

Minor stuff, fuel filter and rear leaf springs installed.

I like to use this cannister style of fuel fillter, uses a replaceable paper element filter. I bend all of my brake/fuel lines so connections are not an issue, mainly wanted to have fairly easy access. Truck is lifted so plenty of room.


Rear leaf springs installed. They came from Bronco Graveyard as replacement F-150 springs but are rated for 2700# vs the stock 1900#. Well made and complete with bushings. Kind of a crappy pic, need to get a better one.


Next up is front D44 axle refurbish and install.

 

Work on the D44 front axle.... original factory, untouched except for lube and brake changes. 3.50 ratio.

First step was to remove the carrier and replace the inner axle seals. Dunno why they thought next to the carrier was a good spot for seals. The stuff you see is some lint from cloth, not steel chunks.


Carrier reinstalled. There was quite a bit of preload on the ends so it made me think that the unit was overall in pretty good shape, no slop. While I had the torque wrench out I also checked the ring gear bolts.


Here's the original factory u-joint at an axle end. Those end caps are from the driveshaft, the front axle shaft u-joints were dry, rusty and semi-frozen.


I had used a ball joint c-press to remove the old u-joints from the axle shafts. To my dismay I found that the yoke arms had squeezed in enough to make it tough to install the inner c-clips. I found this out when I broke a cap on the new u-joint trying to install it


I made a yoke arm spreader from a bolt and some washers/spacers. Turning the nut pushes on the spacers and spreads the yoke arms slightly. I had some anxiety doing this as I was worried I would snap a yoke but it turned out ok.


New u-joint installed, what a difference

 

very nice man. like your other cars too. i had a 04 marauder

 

When I got my truck together, the first time I had it in 4wd, it bucked and jumped horribly when I turned. I tore the front end apart and my u-joint was so bad I had to stand on the stub shaft and pull up on the axle shaft to get it to bend. You definitely made the right decision to do it now-unlike me, who had to tear the front apart almost immediately.

 

LOL, I figured I may as well go thru everything now. In the past, anytime I skipped something I always wound up going back with a lot more work
Marauder -I love those cars, I think I"ve got my 02 as close to one as I can get short of dropping in the 4V engine

I installed the ball joints into the spindles, after the axle shaft u-joint grief, it was nice to have a straightforward installation. I double and triple checked to be sure I had right/left spindles correct so the ball joints would be right. Parts are all Moog and the paint is that Blackshell I mentioned. Very durable, stands up to handling.

Passenger side spindle before:


After:

 

Steel toy, what kind of front axle shaft u-joints did you use? Are those spicers or napa?

That thing looks great! You're doing an awesome job!

 

Thanks!
I used Precision 377 U-joints. I've used them before on other applications with good results. I like these also because there is no grease fitting on the body, its on the face of one of the caps, easy to get to. A needle style grease gun end is needed but to be honest, I usually pack the caps with a good quality hi-temp moly grease, install and forget about them. Not a good habit, but that's what I usually wind up doing.

 

Kick ***, I just started a 78 F150 4x4 build and your post here gave me some really good info. Looks great!