I do but im not sure how it hooks up.

 

I forgot you had a computer controlled engine. I was going to tell you how to hook it up temp to pass the test, but with a computer control type EGR, I do not think it will work. If you could get a earlier non-computer type EGR I think you could rig it just for the test.

Just to make sure, look at the EGR closely. Underneath, does it have a felt fuzz around it? Another way you could check, with the engine running, unplug a port that is sucking vacuum at idle, and plug a short line from there straight into the vacuum port on the EGR. If the engine stalls, my rigging is not going to work.

 

I believe the one that I took off was non computer there's no wires or plug. How does it hook up? There's two ports I think the one on the bottom goes to the exhaust manifold, where would the other one go? Seems the idea is to suck exhaust back into the intake so would the second one even be necessary?

 

Bottom one is a large port correct? That has a pipe that runs to the exhaust manifold? That is where the exhaust comes to the valve. And then you are correct, the valve opens and lets that exhaust into the intake where it's bolted on.

The smaller port up top is for vacuum to open the valve. Originally on your engine, there was a vacuum source going to a bank of solenoid valves mounted on the valve cover. The computer turned these on and off for various functions, one of them was the EGR. The computer actually bounced this valve open and closed to throttle the EGR valve, which controlled the amount of exhaust going into the engine. It also would not activate the EGR at all till the engine fully warmed up, and was above idle.

The older style non-computer type valve throttled the exhaust by using exhaust back pressure. More back pressure means the engine is turning faster, so it can tolerate more exhaust. It also used one of those plastic vacuum valves screwed into the engine coolant, to turn the vacuum off to the EGR until the engine warmed up. And it was also hooked to a vacuum source that only had vacuum above idle on the carb.

If you had the older style, I was going to suggest you warm the engine up, and then hook the EGR straight to the ported vacuum on the carb. It will run ok as long as it's warmed up, and then you could go get it tested again. But if you have the computer style EGR, as soon as you hook it up this way it's going to go wide open and probably stall the engine.