Let's talk emissions
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Cross-Country
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Let's talk emissions
I did a search but figured I might get more specific answers here. Total emissions delete on a 84 150 with a 4.9. No cat (not sure if there was one originally but I imagine there was) straight up Carter carb. Obviously won't pass an e test. I'm in Colorado for reference, the requirement is a 2 speed idle test. I'm not sure how the "inspections" go but I've had plenty of older vehicles and I've never seen an actual inspection accrue and I'm not sure the 18 year olds have much experience with the cars, however I know I might need a smog pump for inspection. My question is more on the content of the exhaust and how to get it into specs. I imagine if I put a "drop in" cat that would help but will it be enough? Maybe 2 in a row? Or maybe hook the pump up to the exhaust to actually pump fresh air into the exhaust for the test? Any ideas are appreciated!
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From: Virginia
Just for verification, what does your distributor look like? Does it have a round metal can with a vacuum line going to it? Or no vacuum line, but a grey plastic rectangle looking thing mounted to the side of the distributor with a bunch of wires coming out of it?
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Cross-Country
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I guess there's a difference between CARB compliant and non CARB compliant cats. Anyone know the difference? And if I'm trying to get the cleanest out I should probably go with the CARB one I'd think.
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Cross-Country
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I put an HEI distributor on it and a reman Carter carb from the early 80s on it.
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From: Virginia
I do not know about the cats, but if you tune it carefully, I am thinking you will be able to pass the sniffer test. By carefully I mean as lean as possible on the idle screw adjustment.
Not sure about your passing visually though. You said something about the smog pump. Is that because of visually passing? If you want it to work, it needs a lot of control valves and piping to make it work. In my state, I need the cat, just to pass the visual. They always crouch down and look under the car for it. But most do not lift the hood. The couple of times they did, they got me for the missing smog pump. If you have any obvious stuff plugged off, they don't know what it is, but they know it's not right and will fail it also. Large original aircleaners hide lots of things and make the engine look more original.
Not sure about your passing visually though. You said something about the smog pump. Is that because of visually passing? If you want it to work, it needs a lot of control valves and piping to make it work. In my state, I need the cat, just to pass the visual. They always crouch down and look under the car for it. But most do not lift the hood. The couple of times they did, they got me for the missing smog pump. If you have any obvious stuff plugged off, they don't know what it is, but they know it's not right and will fail it also. Large original aircleaners hide lots of things and make the engine look more original.
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Cross-Country
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If I tune it right and have a cat on there I think it should be good. According to the state there is a visual inspection for cats and secondary air pumps, where do the lines from the pump go? I'm thinking exhaust and intake? Purely for looks.
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From: Angier, NC
I have found if you put the timing back to where the factory had it or even a little more, lean the carb idle mixture and turn the idle up a spec I was able to get a 1975 v8 factory non-cat car that should of had a air pump (no pump on motor) to pass the sniffer as long as the 18YO did not hit the throttle to hard as I had the accel pump on the rich side.
We did not have a look over before the sniff test.
Do you have a set limit of how much money to spend it get it to pass smog?
Say you go and it fails and they have a limit of say $400.
You spend that much and take it back and if it fails again you show them the paper work of what was spent and they give you a waver.
Might be something to look into.
Dave ----
We did not have a look over before the sniff test.
Do you have a set limit of how much money to spend it get it to pass smog?
Say you go and it fails and they have a limit of say $400.
You spend that much and take it back and if it fails again you show them the paper work of what was spent and they give you a waver.
Might be something to look into.
Dave ----
More Turbo
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From: Houston
An entirely dishonest way to get a pass
Depending on how much time the local cops have on their hands and state laws about registering out of state vehicles., you could get a Vermont registration and tags. The fair citizens of the Green Mountain State have developed a cottage industry for registering and titling untitled classic cars. It can all be done by mail, takes 2-3 weeks after you send in the paperwork and roughly $130 and you get a registration which serves as the title and a set of plates. No testing at all. Easy peasy!
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I think with most testing authorities, the waiver only applies if all required equipment is still present and connected. If bits and pieces have gone missing over the years, there’s no waiver for procuring replacements.
Also, most places require a professional to do the repair work towards the waiver. The assumption is we civilians don’t know what we’re doing.
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Cross-Country
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Depending on how much time the local cops have on their hands and state laws about registering out of state vehicles., you could get a Vermont registration and tags. The fair citizens of the Green Mountain State have developed a cottage industry for registering and titling untitled classic cars. It can all be done by mail, takes 2-3 weeks after you send in the paperwork and roughly $130 and you get a registration which serves as the title and a set of plates. No testing at all. Easy peasy!
I'm going to throw a cat on it a smog pump and some dummy hoses and see what happens
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Got the test today and failed for NOx. I believe the cause was the engine running hot. They have a fan but were blowing it under the truck not through the radiator, when I got back in it was on the high side of the gauge, almost overheated. What I'm seeing about NOx is it happens when the combustion chamber gets to hot. Could also be a lean mixture but I don't think that's it. The limit is 5.0 I was at a 7.1 so I'm thinking the heat might be the issue. If not what other causes might there be? For the record there was no visual inspection for the cat or pump l, however I think the cat helped with the HC and CO so I'm leaving it for the retest.