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cleatus12r is correct. Wind effects animals with sweat glands the worst. That's how we cool our bodies. The only effect it would have on an engine is if you were driving and after shutdown of a warm engine the wind would cool it down faster. But once it hit the ambient air temperature that's as far as it will go. The amazing difference though is in block metals. It's amazing. I was a outside sales rep for 25 years and went through many cars. The cars with all cast iron blocks kept the engine warmer in the winter. I would spend a hour at a customer in the winter and still have some heat in the block at startup for the heater. The all Aluminum blocks would be dead cold and have to start all over again to get heat in the cotpit.
Can I measure the ohms at the plug in if all the connections are good? I had that all out a couple of years ago when I took the oil cooler out and cleaned up everything.
Can I measure the ohms at the plug in if all the connections are good? I had that all out a couple of years ago when I took the oil cooler out and cleaned up everything.
I can't see why not and for ease of access, I would try it.
Can I measure the ohms at the plug in if all the connections are good? I had that all out a couple of years ago when I took the oil cooler out and cleaned up everything.
yes that will work. The wires might add half an ohm
if open double check its plugged in on the block, the metal clips can rot off and let plug come out
It IS a factor to humans/animals with exposed skin (cell moisture). Air movement around a vehicle is only a factor for the rate of cooling.
The rate of cooling is critically important and allows the "hot" source to more closely approach the dry-bulb temperature over time. Whereas an engine block - starting at say a bulk temperature of 100F at 6pm with an outside temp of +20F - may only get to a bulk temperature of 0F on a relatively calm night that reaches -10F by 6am....the increased heat transfer coefficient resulting from the windy, moving air may allow that bulk temperature to closer approach that -10F by 6am. That equates to about 2% colder (0 v -10F, on an absolute basis). Although it doesn't sound like much, it certainly translates to longer times to get the bulk temperature back to 100F after it is started up.
Around here, any forest products worker who routinely leaves heavy equipment outdoors overnight (if it isn't run 24 hrs) will share that they have more problems after a night of big winds than anything else. Those last few degrees matter.
Can I measure the ohms at the plug in if all the connections are good? I had that all out a couple of years ago when I took the oil cooler out and cleaned up everything.
Bear in mind that a common failure point is the plug end itself. If it ohms out open, flex the male end of the plug and see if it has any effect.
Many times a replacement plug end will fix it,
Don't remember what I did as it was 3+ years ago when I had the oil cooler out. Must have tested something because the plug end has new electrical tape on it. However good advice. Good chance I will get to it today as I have to move the truck to get another project out and into my working garage.
Wow 68 here in northeastern Ohio yesterday. Took time to clean up the plug terminals and retested. Came up with 15.6 ohms at the plug. Didn't go any farther so I figured I was good. Plugs probably didn't make good contact that night when it was friged. I'll try someother time and listen for the sizzle.