Kinda new hear and I have searched a bit. I kinda have a unicorn so I don't think someone is going to chime in with the exact same set up but I do welcome other peoples experience and opinions on what others have.

As mentioned, I have a 95 F250 RWD, MAF 5.8L/E4OD/3.55, Extended Cab, Long Bed. I purchased it in 1997 and it has been a good work horse. A couple years after I bought it, I purchased/installed a Kenne-Bell screw blower, 61mm twin BBK throttle body, 1.7 rockers, shorty headers, Bassani Lightning crossover, and 3" Gibson exhaust. This worked well for our slide in camper. As the kids got older, we got a 32ft 5th wheel. Not so good anymore.

As time went by, I just lived with the set up but now that the kids are gone and all the bills are paid, I want to update this truck. Lately, I purchased a Tweecer and I am about ready to dive into this tuning hole. My goal is to get it tuned with the stock stuff and eventually install larger [#42] injectors and larger MAF. This should get me by for the year.

I purchased a used 4.10 LS differential and I am rebuilding it. I hope to be done rebuilding it this weekend and installing it next weekend.

I also recently purchased a core roller 5.8L engine and plan on rebuilding it with a stroker crank I have not decided on a 408 or a 418. Obviously better aftermarket aluminum heads [leaning on AFR now]. That is a build that will take about a year or so. Lots on my plate and I really enjoy researching what is best.

My question is, since this is only going to be used only for towing, what seems to be the most reliable set up? I'm talking about something that can go over a pass for 30 mins and not at 20mph. Holding the throttle down and not be concerned 'Is this going to blow up'?

When I research cams, I just see the typical 'race' cams. I doubt if I ever will get above 5,000 rpm, those days are long gone. I just do not see a lot of real opinions on towing cams.

I doubt if I need a forged crank, but I would not be so cheap not to do it if it gives me a piece of mind. Is the slightly larger stroke of a 418 v a 408 a reliability issue? I plan on using forged pistons, but the ones with a lot of silicone in it. Tight clearance, good longevity. Since I am not looking for max power/RPM, I think they would handle my needs. Mahle is a brand I trust.

As for heads. I see the large port [205] seem to be the way to go, since I do have the blower. I doubt if I will see more than 8psi with it. That is what psi I have now. I do know with a larger engine, the blower will have less boost but I may put a small pulley but I do not want to overdrive the blower too much. I am thinking I need the large ports because of the large size of the engine and the blower, but do I?

I have shorties headers now. They are 1.5". I am looking at doing a long tube header, but I really do not want more noise. Flowtech has an Elite series that has thicker [14ga] pipes, would that keep some of the noise down? The amount of noise I have now is acceptable.

One last thing, I have an E4OD. I do understand that the cases come in different sizes. The diesel/big block has all the good stuff. Can you stuff all those components in a small block case?

I think that is it. I know this is a bit long, but those are the questions I have and would like to hear what has worked for others.

 

Okay see most of my replies in your quote.

Now. If you are set on forced induction, get a turbo, a GOOD intercooler, and push the air through a stock or ported 5.8 truck intake.
The blower shortens the intake runners and hurts torque. It also creates stupid amounts of heat and pushes that into the engine so you have to drop timing to stave of detonation... killing torque.
A proper sized turbo and good intercooler will drop intake charge temp and let you run more timing helping tq. And the long runner intake of the 5.8 will also help.

 

it blew up, but it was because he didnt have enough wastegate and boost ran away on him.
351 turbo video

 

I have had this blower on the stock engine since 1999. I have taken this 5th wheel cross country. From Tampa to Seattle. Since this blower has been on this stock engine for over 20 years and 20-30k miles, I think the question of it blowing up the engine has been answered. I can say that while driving from Florida to Seattle, I was under boost darn near the whole way. Maybe not a lot, but certainly there was a couple psi while traveling at freeway speeds.

40 years turning wrenches and now a shop owner, I get the basics of materials and the abuse of them. I could get the old school forged pistons but I think their advantages are disadvantages for my project. I understand the basics of thermal expansion, which is why I am not looking for a 2618 type piston. I think a forged 4032 would keep the expansion at reasonable levels. I cannot stress enough, I'm not looking for a 7k 700hp engine.

Changing the forced induction is not an option. I really like what I have and it has proven to be as reliable as the engine itself. Changing to diesel or going to a big block is not an option either. Although those options would resolve my problem, it would just bring a whole lot more problems.

30 minutes may be long and you are correct, there are no passes that long where I live, but I would rather over build than under build. Right now, I'm under built and I know it. There were more important things in life that had priorities. Those people having a family and marriage can probably understand what I mean. I've been debt free for the last 10 years of my life and I could go buy a new diesel truck, but I see no thrill in that

 

High silicon (hypereutectic) pistons in a high-load, non-intercooled tow rig? Not a good idea both for thermal expansion and lack of detonation damage resistance (they break very easily and once you hear it......the damage is usually done). There's also the top ring gap of TWICE normal specification that tends to send a lot more heat to the second ring.

Also, regarding your tuning question, you will need to make sure that someone (company) actually offers a definition file for your PCM code. The hardware you mentioned has to use a brand of tuning software and you will need to make sure that the software (Tunerpro/Binary Editor/EEC Analyzer) has the ability (definition file) to support the PCM calibration. The TwEECer doesn't just natively allow tuning changes by itself.

The E4OD for the 351 has the same internals as the 460 version.

Personally I'd do either a carburetor and Baumann/US Shift setup or a PimpX with auto stand-alone controller. The factory PCM is pretty limited for anything "special".

 

Dont blame you on wanting to avoid buying a new truck.
Is this blower intercooled like the cobra kenne bells?
And what size is it? As it may work great on a 351 but adding 50 or 60 inches may put it out of its efficiency range. So even if it has worked fine for 20 years, now you have to over spin It to get the same boost making more heat for the intercoolerto deal with. Plus blowers/turbos are HP sized so a 350hp capable blower on a 210 hp 351 does great. Not so much on a 390hp 408 now it is a restriction. ( examples only)
I guess i misunderstood your first post as the trailer was too big for the truck setup when you said not so good anymore. And thought you didnt pull it.
Still PERSONALLY would not get tolerance any tighter than what they would have been stock.
The stock bottom end is capable of 4 digit numbers so you shouldn't need a fancy crank for a 408 cast should work. Hell at 20k miles on your setup cast pistons should work too, the factory ones held up.
In all honesty there are few aftermarket cams that will help lowend, but the comp that is always suggested here (cant remember the number off hand) would be your best bet.

I keep falling back to the blower though. Being as they only displace a fixed amount of air per rev, unless its like a decent size i keep thinking it will have to be spun up to keep up with a HCI 400+ inch engine. So i did some digging. The Autorotor1.5L screw blower was available in the 90s. Is this what you have?

 

I suspect that I will be at 6psi [same pulley with a larger/more efficient intake] and although I am a fan of intercooling [I have a Callaway VW Pickup] I just do not believe that 6 psi will benefit largely with the difficulties of intercooling in this project. Water injection will be used to keep the intake temps at bay. I suspect I will have to have a huge gallon tank. Working on that idea.

I do not recall the exact compression ratio of my stock engine, but I suspect it is about 8.5-1. Since I have run the stock system at 8 psi for all these years and tough miles, it appears the stock cast pistons are ok. I believe the 4032 is a step in the right direction, stronger than stock, small expansion rate, but weaker than 2618 forged. All things said, I am well aware of the expansion rates of these pistons and how important it would be to set things right. If the 4032 are as tough [ie wear resistant] as they say, I suspect they can withstand 6psi at 3k all day long. Of course, any tune can effect that and I am not that ignorant to ignore that. I would never tune it to the limit. It's a tow rig. AFR makes some 72cc heads and at this time, that is where I will be heading.

Right now, on level ground, I run about 2-3psi at 60mph. I rarely go faster than that. I am hoping with a good stroker, I can maintain the same speed with no psi [lighter throttle]. Like others, I suspect my new normal will be more like 2-3psi and driving at 65mph.

As for the Tweecer, at this time, it appears to be working fine. I should know by the end of this weekend [or next] if it indeed does work. With the limited time I have played with it, it does 'talk' to the EEC-IV. Last weekend I welded the bung for the wide band and this weekend, I will be installing the wide band controller. That way, I can tune properly. At this time, it appears I can tune the shift points but again, I have not pressed buttons to see if it actually does anything.

Thanks for the information about the internals of the transmission. I figured since this is a lower power unit, there would be less clutches, less pinions, etc. I fix German cars and I have a converter repair shop that fixes the German stuff I work on. I have no doubts I can get my converter massaged over when I have it out. The transmission was 'fixed' by another shop years ago when the front pump failed. Sadly, I had to sublet that and it has not been right ever since. It shifts good enough, but it is certainly not right.

 

Yes, I have the original Autorotor. I believe it is a 1.5 unit. I suspect I will not be changing the pulley when I first get it going. I am aware that the boost pressure will be less. How much less? We shall see but I am thinking at least 2psi. As I mentioned above, with the larger engine and better heads [I'll work on the intake], I am expecting less boost.

Like everything, there is a limit on how fast you can spin anything. Since I do not plan on going past 5k, I am aware that if I do put a smaller pulley on it, that the efficiency may not be ideal at the higher RPM's. I'm good with that because I do not intend to ever go there. If it does not effect the 2-3k area much, then I'm ok. My goal is not to extract every hp out of this. Just an engine that can handle a good load for a long time. Boost pressure is further down the line. A good solid engine foundation and good tuning is much more important.

There is never enough power but if I feel I can get 500ft/lb torque all day long, I think I will be content with that.

I was thinking the cast crank would be good enough and thanks for your input.

 

I don't know what pulley you have now, and i cant find much reference to pulley size for boost on a 5.8. But i found a KB article for the 1.5L on a 4.6. And the 2.5 pulley makes max 12psi on a 4.6 at 16250 rotor rpm per KB testing. And makes 350hp.
That same pulley and rotor rpm makes 8 psi on a 408 assuming same airflow through the heads and intake.
The base 3.125 pulley will net you 3.4 psi.

406 = 6.68Litersx4000engine rpm/2 ( for 4 stroke eng) = 15,030 L/min

1.5L sc x 16250( rotor rpm w 2.5 pulley) = 24,375L/min

24375/15030=.62 bar or 8ish psi approximately with the 12psi setup

 

Right now, I have a 2.47" pulley. According to the installation instructions, on a 351W, that would be an 8psi pulley. I can confirm that. They also have a pulley that is 2.25" that will boost it up 2psi [up to 10psi].

 

I am actually pretty interested in seeing the tq this could make.
I would look to possibly one of the 4x4 cams from comp cams.

 

Not much of an update but I did get a call from the machine shop indicating the core engine I purchased has a good block. Cleaned, checked, and rough bored to .030. I should be picking it up today/tomorrow. Quick way to burn $750 but good work is worth whatever they charge. Still plan on a stroker but I am leaning on a 418, but the advice is to stick with the 408.

I also picked up a larger supercharger. The unit I purchased is a 2.0L vs the stock 1.5L. Came with some extra pulleys. Looks like it will bolt up and that should satisfy the increased CID. Not looking for more boost, probably not more than what I got now, 8psi.

I should have all the parts for the E4OD. I will be adding extra clutches, steel planetaries, and 6 planet carriers on the last two. Torque converter is built. Nice to have a local builder that treats me fair. I hope to get the transmission built in a few weeks or so. I also hope to install it before our big camping trip.

The Tweecer is a learning curve, but so far, so good.

I did rebuild a core Sterling 10.25 limited slip axle. It's got a 4.10 [had a 3.55]. Took one trip with the 5th wheel, so far, I like it.