Ok, I've got a decent mechanical background once being a mechanic and turning wrenches on my tractor trailers at home. However, everything that I have every done gas, diesel, 4 stroke, 2 stroke, whatever has always been working on stock engines or slightly modified engines. I have no experience what so ever with choosing components for a custom built engine.

I am doing a complete frame off restoration of my 94 f150. It is an ext cab 6.5ft bed 2wd 351W classy chassy conversion truck. It got me through a rough time in my life a few years back and it has enough sentimental value to me that it's worth completely restoring. I'm going complete frame off restoration on this truck. It will take me a handful of years I am sure as I'm not rich but I'm willing to do what it takes.

So the truck is currently an automatic. I want to go manual. Thinking maybe a zf5? Rebuilt 9" with limited slip?

My major concern here is the engine.. I am so confused reading through page after page of different opinions on component combinations. I would really like to see 400hp but want good torque to back it up. I plan to still use it as a truck after this is all done. Not a daily but still drive around on weekends and pull a trailer from time to time. I'm leaning towards an aftermarket EFI system since my knowledge of carb tuning is almost non existent. I could probably swing aluminum heads. Maybe not the most expensive ones but I'm willing to look. Bore the engine? Type of cam? I guess what I'm really looking for is some solid advice from you guys that have been around the block and really know what your doing. How would you build an engine for this purpose? What can i do to sort through all this confusion and make sure I'm buying parts that will all work together in the end?

Ik this post is long but for anybody that takes the time and is willing to help me I sincerely appreciate it.

 

Check on what Summit or Jegs has to offer. Save yourself a lot of guess work. You will have more fun with a TKO or similar 5 speed than the ZF.

 

400hp may be tricky if you're wanting to retain good street manners unless you add some boost from a supercharger. You basically have to decide if you want 400hp with heads/cam/intake and maybe more cubic inches with a stroker build, or if you want to keep the engine much more basic and throw a supercharger at it. Total cost is similar. A centrifugal supercharger will give you more hp than torque as it makes more boost as RPM increases but the install is pretty easy and it doesn't hurt cruising MPG all that much. A more conventional roots/twin screw type supercharger will add power from idle all the way to max rpm but will also use more fuel and the install is more involved.

For tuning, check my signature for PiMPx and PiMPxs ECU's.

 

400HP is easily attainable while keeping good street manners and good torque down low.

I would start by finding a different motor to start with. Your 1994 likely has a flat tappet block, but this can be verified by checking to see if the casting code on the block starts in F4TE, or if there are dog bone retainers on the lifters in the valley. If you're going to build a motor, start with a good block. 1995-97 351w's are all roller cam motors. Very beneficial to making power, much better cam profiles available, and virtually no chance of wiping out the cam on break in.

Assuming you'll want to have the block checked and machined, you can have the block bored .030 over, and put a cheap 408 together. I think the last time I looked, a rotating assembly with a cast crank and dished pistons from Summit was like $1300 (much more if you want a forged crank but this isn't necessary for what you're going to use it for). Next, a set of AFR as cast 185cc heads would be a good choice on a budget (~$1100 for the pair), or go right for their CNC'd heads if you can swing the money for them ($1800), well worth it. As for a camshaft, there are a ton of roller options available, but you'll want something that makes power right off of idle. You won't need something super radical. Keeping the LSA between 112 and 114, .500ish lift, and a short duration will keep torque high and throttle response good while making good vacuum at idle. This will run you $200-300. You can reuse the stock roller lifter if they are in good shape. You can get a set of roller rockers for $200-300. Pushrods will be ~$100. If you plan to keep the port fuel injection, go with the Stinger Performance PimpX ECU. I have 2 of them, and I installed and tuned one in my brother's truck as well. Solid units, a little daunting at first but once you used to the tuning software, its really fairly simple. Matt Happel from Sloppy Mechanics has an extensive Youtube video about the tuning software, I watched that before I started tuning any of mine. Helped a ton. Intake choice is up to you. Either the Edelbrock EFI Truck intake or the Trickflow R are good choices. Both around $800. Throttle body will run you a few hundred bucks. (If you use the Edelbrock, you can use the stock throttle body for the power you'll be making). If you can source a Lightning intake for cheap, that would also be a good choice. But, these regularly sell for $800 as well, and you'll have to use a spacer to clear your valve covers, as you will need taller valve covers to clear the stud mount rockers. Bigger injectors will also be necessary. At this power level, you should be able to get away with 36 lb/hr injectors on pump 91 octane. If you intend to run E85, you'll need 48 lb/hr injectors.

This is the route I would go/have went. My 89 F350 has become my tow rig for hauling my sled pulling truck and anything else. I was able to find a VERY low mileage roller block with virtually no wear, so I kept the stock crank, forged rods, 4" bore flat top pistons with valve reliefs (10.5:1 static compression ratio). AFR 165 heads, Howards 220225-12S cam, scorpion 1.72 rockers, trick flow push rods, edelbrock EFI truck intake, stock throttle body. Truck has a 4 speed T18 trans, 4.10 gears, and 35" tires. Gobs of power. Pulls better than our 460 powered cab and chassis F350 does, better than our 5.4L powered F350 does. Starts right up with it's 0 degrees outside. Idles great. Only complaint is that it doesn't have overdrive (used to have a ZF5, but this was stolen from me a decade ago).

All that said, don't bother with a 9". The 8.8" rear end is plenty strong and will handle this kind of power. If you can source a small block ZF5, that would be a fine choice. The later years (95-97) are actually an updated version with stronger internals, rated for slightly more power. I would not waste time on an M5OD trans.

 

No it should be a roller motor that is when the F4TE block first appeared.

 

That would be fortunate. About 50% of the '94 351w's I have had hands on were flat tappet, the other half were roller. I don't know if this is related to date of manufacture of the truck, maybe using up old flat tappet blocks in the end of 1993 and the beginning of '94 on trucks labeled as 1994 models.

 

Yes date of manufacture would be part of it, new year builds start sometime in the second half of the previous year and carry on into the first half of the current year and it makes sense that they use up old stock where possible, so finding a non roller block or even a roller block with a flat tappet cam in an early build '94 wouldn't be surprising.