When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I suppose I meant that I couldn’t say for certain that I’ve seen it.
I have seen the “Black Death” but never heard it called that. Typically it’s due to excessive moisture in the system but I’m sure enough residual R-12 could cause it.
No not at all. I was confirming what you said. All Good,
Most likely it’s R134a but the only way to be sure is to have it tested. Some shops have machines that will test the refrigerant before recovery. I don’t know if there’s any home tests available.
I’ve never personally seen it, but I was taught that when R134a and R-12 mix they form a sludge of sorts. If that’s true then it seems to me if there was any R-12 still in the system the compressor would be locked up.
I believe this is correct about the mix of the two along with moisture entering.. Of course not evacuating the system after opening, moisture entering can cause black death. I think the difference in compressor oil may also contribute to this but I am no HVAC expert. If the A/c system is going to be opened for conversion, the orifice tube can be checked for black death and if present the system should be flushed thoroughly before converting to R134a.
So yea i see no stickers and the low side has a 134a but the high has r12 service port. I messed with the clutch cycle switch and I tightened the thing by hand will that have any affect on the AC system? I can’t start the truck right now so I can’t test it.
What you did with the clutch switch will not effect the system. Since you do plan on converting the system, I would remove the orifice tube to see if it is gummed up. It might change your procedure for converting if you have to flush it. After I saw the black death and what it entailed to remove it, I replaced everything with new parts. A/C is almost imperative where I am.
Ok. Is the tube the one on the bottom of the ac dryer?
and is it possible that there’s enough charge it will explode refrigerant or Freon everywhere?
Do not uncouple the hose. Since you still have not connected gauges…you do not know if anything is in the system.
You know that the electrical part is good since jumping the low pressure switch engaged the compressor clutch. At this point you probably should be taking the truck somewhere to have the system evacuated. I would think the system was filled with R-134a but there is no way to know. Let a professional figure out what is there and recover it. You can replace components and then take it back to be filled.
I assumed the A/C system was done and empty since an R12 fitting was still on there along with a R134a fitting. If it still has refrigerant in there it should be evacuated before opening.
I assumed the A/C system was done and empty since an R12 fitting was still on there along with a R134a fitting. If it still has refrigerant in there it should be evacuated before opening.
I tend to agree from what I am reading, it sounds and looks like it is empty.
Again, a quick check on the valve will tell the story.
I tend to agree from what I am reading, it sounds and looks like it is empty.
Again, a quick check on the valve will tell the story.
I'm inclined to agree. A quick press of the valve seems reasonable. If it hisses and has refrigerant, it should be evacuated before removing the orifice.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
