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Ok, I’ll post pictures later today. I need to loan some gauges to test the pressure in the system. What pressure is a reasonable range?
and how would I test the clutch cycle switch itself?
Here’s a picture of one of the ports. It’s a zoom in on an old photo. I’ll go out to the truck later and take a photo of them with the cap and without the cap
Ok, ill loan some of those. And do I connect it to the low side which I think is the blue cap on the Ac dryer. And the high side the black cap next to radiator and radiator reservoir? Or is the high and low side something else?
Working on the A/C system is not like changing parts. For your safety and to do it right you really need to know what you are doing before diving into this system. Using the gauges is a different game. Here is a decent video to show you how to evacuate your system and properly recharge it safely. There are many other videos online that can help you do this. Good luck and be safe. Also if you have been previously converted to R34 your Low and High pressure valves will be different sizes to prevent hooking the gauges wrong. There are schrader valves in the two ports. Cheap replacement and fixed my leak.
R-12 ports are screw on connectors and R-143a has quick connectors. That looks like a 134 adapter to me. You cannot hook up the gauges incorrectly. The low and high side connectors are different sizes.
Ok. I’m not recharging it. I’m taking it to a shop for that. But I want to diagnose it which is why I need the gauges. I don’t trust shops. I’ve seen too many things of them pulling fuses or something and then saying they need a fuel pump. Things like that is why I want to diagnose it myself tell them double check my work and fix it. Then I’ll know what’s wrong, and if they’re trying to sell me stuff I don’t need.
That's fine just educate yourself before doing it. You'll be glad you did. It is not hard to recharge it or evacuate it if you know what you are doing. I did all that on mine and it is working great. I read up a lot and took notes to refer to. Glad I did.
Is this r-134a? It looks like it’s got quick disconnect.
I’ve also hosed down the engine bay multiple times. And it’s coated in oil everywhere from a leak. Is this gonna affect me trying to use a UV light trying to find the leak. If there is a leak. Can I just put a can in for testing purposes? And then I’ll get it put to spec?
The R134a replacement ports are designed to thread into the line, not the hose service valves.
AC Machine and/or gauge fittings for R134a are quick connect only for securing the hose and line together and provide a seal when the valves are being opened. They still require turning (threading) the valve release to open the system for recovery/vacuum/recharging.
AC Machine and/or gauge fittings for R-12 do not use a quick connect design - they thread straight onto the valve using the external threads with what equates to a compression fitting for plumbing.
The adapter/conversion ports for R134a thread onto the original R-12 ports and are meant to be permanent. Any shop willing to comply with the law would put a new label on the truck (typically under the hood but could also have one in the glove box) noting the date and location of the switch along with the new charge level.
If there’s no such label on your truck, it’s not a stretch to think a PO installed the low side adapter and relied on the off-the-shelf cans to keep the system charged.
I’ll check the glovebox and doorjambs. If there isn’t one how do I tell what is inside the system?
Most likely it’s R134a but the only way to be sure is to have it tested. Some shops have machines that will test the refrigerant before recovery. I don’t know if there’s any home tests available.
I’ve never personally seen it, but I was taught that when R134a and R-12 mix they form a sludge of sorts. If that’s true then it seems to me if there was any R-12 still in the system the compressor would be locked up.
Most likely it’s R134a but the only way to be sure is to have it tested. Some shops have machines that will test the refrigerant before recovery. I don’t know if there’s any home tests available.
I’ve never personally seen it, but I was taught that when R134a and R-12 mix they form a sludge of sorts. If that’s true then it seems to me if there was any R-12 still in the system the compressor would be locked up.
My 91 was converted to R34a by the PO. It was inflicted with the BLACK DEATH. Google It. The Orifice tube was totally blocked.and the entire system compromised. I don't know if the conversion caused it or not but it was bad.
My 91 was converted to R34a by the PO. It was inflicted with the BLACK DEATH. Google It. The Orifice tube was totally blocked.and the entire system compromised. I don't know if the conversion caused it or not but it was bad.
I suppose I meant that I couldn’t say for certain that I’ve seen it.
I have seen the “Black Death” but never heard it called that. Typically it’s due to excessive moisture in the system but I’m sure enough residual R-12 could cause it.
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