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It's impossible to tell from a few pics but the motor looks fairly unscathed. $2500 seems a little on the high end of reasonable, but the market is all over the map anymore so I may be wrong. If it checks out and you're comfortable with the $$ it my be a lot easier than the cross country deal w/ the 96. Does it still fire up?
I would say take the whole truck for that price, then you have a good interior, PCM, IDM, truck, bed, etc. to sell off or keep for yourself and recoup the $$$.
Hi everyone, check out what I found today.
2001 F350 214k. Has service records, willing to let me do a compression test and inspection. Asking $2500 for engine and all incl. accessories….
truck was in a front end crash, so worried about broken stuff like the front cover… not sure what else would break in an accident like that.
looked like a nice clean Arizona truck before it was wrecked…. Let me know what y’all think.
I'm liking that DM Mack there.
I don't know what to tell you about the rest of it but $2500 sounds steep to me.
It's impossible to tell from a few pics but the motor looks fairly unscathed. $2500 seems a little on the high end of reasonable, but the market is all over the map anymore so I may be wrong. If it checks out and you're comfortable with the $$ it my be a lot easier than the cross country deal w/ the 96. Does it still fire up?
the 96 sold Saturday morning. Someone local contacted him before me. This red trucks motor runs. He ran it last dec 9th right before he pulled it out…
I’m going to checkout the red truck sat morning. It’s actually still installed, covered up with a heavy tarp. Ran last on December 9th. Daily driven until it crashed December 8th. Maintenance and oil changes every 7k miles. Always used rotella t5
seller has the batteries pulled, intercooler, radiator and down pipes removed. Would I be able to start the motor and check blow by with these components disconnected? I see no reason why not….
You'll need batteries obviously, intercooler isn't a problem. The radiator is the hang up. It should be fine for a very brief start up, but depending on how much fluid is still in the block and ambient temps I probably wouldn't go over a minute maybe. I could be wrong on this too. I just know cooling system is much more critical on a diesel than a gasser. Now if there's access to a spigot and garden hose then cram the hose in the pump inlet and open her up. This would be best option in my opinion. It gives things a chance to heat up some for more accurate inspection without risking any damage.
You'll need batteries obviously, intercooler isn't a problem. The radiator is the hang up. It should be fine for a very brief start up, but depending on how much fluid is still in the block and ambient temps I probably wouldn't go over a minute maybe. I could be wrong on this too. I just know cooling system is much more critical on a diesel than a gasser. Now if there's access to a spigot and garden hose then cram the hose in the pump inlet and open her up. This would be best option in my opinion. It gives things a chance to heat up some for more accurate inspection without risking any damage.
it’s actually the up pipes to the turbo from the exhaust. Probably need to reconnect them huh?
I dont think that would affect blow by/compression test at all. It may be loud though lol
Pipes definitely aren’t necessary for a compression test. But not sure about blow by. Or running it. I figured it would be loud lol
Trying to figure out what to do about batteries to do a compression test on Saturday. I have 2 good batteries that I’ll charge before I go. Seller has 2 batteries as well, unsure about charge or condition of his batts.
I guess I’ll bring my shop’s battery charger in case. And try to start the truck after compression test… or before??
With the IC disconnected the turbo isn't doing anything anyway so up pipes shouldn't matter outside of the volume.
Two good batteries should be sufficient for compression test. Especially if all glow plugs were removed and only resistance would be cylinder being tested. Not sure if that's the correct way to test compression honestly. I've heard arguments for both sides of that and I'm no expert. That's why I hang out here trying to learn something.
Anyone have anything else to look for when looking to buy a used 7.3l. Only concerned about buying the motor, for anyone catching up….
seller will let me do compression test and inspection. I have FORScan and compression gauge and adapter as well as hpop deadhead tools…
Does FORScan do CCT test? It’s been awhile since I’ve used it. Would there be anything else necessary to look at in FORScan?
and what about visual inspection, I know the common leaks like, turbo pedestal, hpop, ipr, icp. Etc, what else would you look for when buying a 7.3l with 200k
About the only other things I can think of are oil cooler leaks and checking the compressor wheel in the turbo. If it looks dusted then at some point it's run enough dirt and BS through the intake to cause whatever damage you may find.
About the only other things I can think of are oil cooler leaks and checking the compressor wheel in the turbo. If it looks dusted then at some point it's run enough dirt and BS through the intake to cause whatever damage you may find.
will look at turbo impellers and oil cooler leaks.
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