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So, I was trying to get my window back in. It was not going well. As I was maneuvering the window the lift channel broke.
Now what? My first thought was adhesive, but I wonder if that would hold. It looks like LMC and Dennis Carpenter have them. So should I just get new?
While you are looking at that are there any tips to get the window back in? Maybe I should remove the window regulator?
It looks like it was riveted to the bottom of the channel. Maybe try that. But either way, fix yours or buy new or used you'll have to take the window out of the channel.
I've put windows in both my trucks a couple of times and I don't remember if it needs to sit in the door bottom. I don't think so. It's coming back to me.... The regulator should be raised until the window is in then lowered a bit to line up the pins into those rolling things.
It looks like it was riveted to the bottom of the channel. Maybe try that. But either way, fix yours or buy new or used you'll have to take the window out of the channel.
I've put windows in both my trucks a couple of times and I don't remember if it needs to sit in the door bottom. I don't think so. It's coming back to me.... The regulator should be raised until the window is in then lowered a bit to line up the pins into those rolling things.
Check the Shop Manual.
I think it was spot welded. But I could try rivets. I have those on hand. I can't make it worse at this point.
Of course I glued the window in as well since the passenger side wouldn't hold the window.
Shop Manual!!!! Why do I never think to look at that......
I just got to thinking. I don't think rivets are a solution. There isn't room to get my rivet tool in that narrow space.
I will double check, but first I have to figure out the best way to loosen and remove my weatherstrip adhesive.
I'm heading down there Wednesday, but it will be a very quick there and back trip for my dad's cataract surgery.
It looks like new ones are only $22 and LMC has them in stock. Since I will need more window channel rubber as well I just went ahead and ordered the parts. I will still try to repair my old one, just because.
As long as your original lift channel is structurally sound, I'd try to repair and use it before a reproduction. My experience has been that the guide channels for the rollers are not correct and don't work the same. Hopefully they're better than they used to be. All you really need to do is make a couple of quick tack welds to stick the guide back on the channel. It won't take much, just enough to hold it in place. You may not even need to remove the glass.
The other thing I see is your roller guide tracks are dirty with old, dirty, sticky grease. Clean those and the rollers really good and lube liberally with white lithium grease. Your window regulator will appreciate you.
Rivets won't work. Even if you could get the tool in place, the rivet will interfere either with the glass or the roller. The track needs to be welded back to the channel.
You shouldn't have needed to glue the glass into the channel. As you can see, removal is now problematic. The glass setting butyl tape wrapped around the glass and the channel tapped over it should be enough to hold it together. They make different thicknesses of the tape to adjust for glass thickness and channel width.
No one is going to comment on how solid the bottom of that door looks? And the door seal retainer strip?
Well in my parts chasing, it's very common for find light green and light blue solid parts. You rarely see a solid original black or dark blue paint door or hood. Certain colors must have received more paint? Or the paint was more UV resistant?
I used adhesive because the passenger side door window wouldn't stay in with the new anti-rattle felts in place.
I will try it without it when I get this out. I have zero welding skill so to weld it I would need to find someone to do it for me at probably a higher cost than a replacement.
The grease is new. I put it on to help the rollers move. Yeah that will collect dirt and grime. I will go with white lithium grease when I fix.
I was fortunate that this truck was under a pole barn for 30-40 years. The cab and doors are pretty solid.
Here is is after a little CLR cleaning.
A little heat and light prying and the channel is off with the tape still on the window.
Also notice lots of holes where the spot welds were. I confirmed a rivet won't fit. The tool is just too big.
I know this may sound crazy to you but if you wanted to ship it to me I would clean it in my blast cabinet and then weld/repair it for you. The 'GOOD' side is probably not far behind the broken one and I would fix it as well. You could send both door pieces and I would make them all solid. No cost other than shipping. Just another option.
I know this may sound crazy to you but if you wanted to ship it to me I would clean it in my blast cabinet and then weld/repair it for you. The 'GOOD' side is probably not far behind the broken one and I would fix it as well. You could send both door pieces and I would make them all solid. No cost other than shipping. Just another option.
I know this may sound crazy to you but if you wanted to ship it to me I would clean it in my blast cabinet and then weld/repair it for you. The 'GOOD' side is probably not far behind the broken one and I would fix it as well. You could send both door pieces and I would make them all solid. No cost other than shipping. Just another option.
That would be cool if you could do that. I wonder if the metal will handle sand blasting and welding? It feels fairly solid, the holes worry me though.
I will look into shipping costs all the way out to Truckee, CA.
I have the other one in the door with a new window. I figure it will last for another 10-20 years. They don't get too much use.
