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Like your screwdriver Joe....I have a set just like that. Probably bought them 45 years ago or so.
Thanks. I have a couple like that. I love older tools. I don't recall how I came about these. My dad would often go to auctions. Sometimes he would buy tools because he didn't know what they were.
Having tools that have been used for many years just feels good. They have a history. Same feeling for our old trucks and my old cast iron pans.
Since I'm getting to the point of doing doors on my truck (once I'm back on my feet), what size thickness and width Butyl tape did folks use when installing the window into the channel?
Since I'm getting to the point of doing doors on my truck (once I'm back on my feet), what size thickness and width Butyl tape did folks use when installing the window into the channel?
Thanks
Jim
I would mic the glass and channel and determine what thickness you need. You want a little compression so it’s a tight fit and will hold without slipping.
The glass setting tape is available at any local glass store. You don't have to special order it. If all you need is a couple of feet, they just might give you a chunk.
I used adhesive because the passenger side door window wouldn't stay in with the new anti-rattle felts in place.
I will try it without it when I get this out. I have zero welding skill so to weld it I would need to find someone to do it for me at probably a higher cost than a replacement.
The grease is new. I put it on to help the rollers move. Yeah that will collect dirt and grime. I will go with white lithium grease when I fix.
I was fortunate that this truck was under a pole barn for 30-40 years. The cab and doors are pretty solid.
Here is is after a little CLR cleaning.
No I sure don't. I know the truck was parked around 1972. So it had to be before that. It would be interesting to know. I plan on replacing them with original handles after I get my window back in.
I would guess someone on here could look at them and tell us.
Well Joe sent me his broken window track. After getting it, I cleaned the parts in my blast cabinet. Boy that exposed a lot of rust damage. While I contemplated the best course of action for repair it got set aside due to more snow and the required work that entails. I got back to it today and came up with a repair and talked with Joe before doing the repair. Because of all the rust the channel did not have adequate strength to put a good squeeze on the window tape and glass. So I cut of 17 ga sheet metal on the stomp sheer and broke it into a U channel on the brake. This was a interference fit onto the original channel. It was clamped and tig welded together along with the roller guide that had broke free. The new channel spaced down the roller guide approximately .055 thousands which should not effect operation. It is packaged back up and gets taken to the post office tomorrow for return to Joe. This is the bottom of the original channel after blasting, the front of of the channel looked almost as bad. This is the channel I bent to reinforce the rusted original one. The roller guide with the original spot welds drilled out for rosette welding. Roller guide rosette welded and and welded on the ends. The complete assembly showing the new channel welded to the original.
Dave, that is awesome that you could help Joe like this! The 48-56 forum on FTE is not your regular on line forum. It's more like a fraternity or a family.
That is awesome Dave! Thanks so much for doing this. I wondered what blasting would turn up. You provided a great solution.
I keep saying one of these days I will take some welding courses. I doubt I would ever be too good at it though. There is such an art to this type of work.
I haven't been in the shop much lately. I've been focusing more on my running. I think getting this back home will draw me out there. I can get the window all together and then dig into the rear main seal, but that is for another thread.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
