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What do you gentleman think a 1996 e4od 4wd Tranny would need done to it, besides a converter, to handle something like 750 crank hp out of a small block, if it’s even possible? I know aods can be built stronger but just looking for opinions of the e4od.
The 96 E4OD has most of the hard part updates and it should be pretty easy to build one to handle that much power it is after all a C6 with an overdrive and a lock up converter.
Yea, that’s why I’m not overly worried about the 600 crank hp level it’s gonna be at. Everything I’ve ever read about building an e4od was pretty much to get a converter and do all the updates Ford did with them before the 4r100 replacement. Was just wondering if there’s any part limitations that would need to be upgraded.
Probably an area where you'll have to spend some money will be on an aftermarket controller of some kind so that you'll be able to adjust your shift points and quality. In my 79 F350 I'm using the Quick 2 from Bauman. My transmission core was a 1990 so I did every possible upgrade and I also used a Transgo Tugger kit.
Folks like to upgrade with parts from a "diesel" unit. Specifically you want the cast iron overdrive planetary set. (The aluminum one is what failed on mine.) On top of that the gas ones have four planets and diesel ones have six. And upgrade I did. Also the four gear "rear" planet can be upgraded from four to six. A mod I did not do as I'm not making that kind of power.
I replace the "boost valve" on every Ford that has one, it's a high wear item. Sonnax sells one that uses o-rings which is nice if there is a little wear in the bore. You can also get one that has a touch stronger spring with it and a larger boost ratio. I would use that one.
I'd also put in one of their "line-to-lube" valves. Because they are prone to trouble and wear. You can go to Sonnax.com for some very good explanations of what you want these for and a whole lot more. Pay special attention to things stamped in red for "Hi-Po/Heavy Duty". A lot of individual springs and stuff they list will already be in your shift kit so you want to look at that. No need to duplicate what you have from Transgo.
One of the most important things is the torque converter. I think I spent more on mine than I did the rest of the rebuild. You want one with a billet front. (Makes one freaking heavy.) For two reasons. The rigidity helps with lockup clutch durability a lot. Secondly the studs you bolt the converter to your flexplate tend to "lean over" on stock converters subjected to hard use. This can not only causer them to break off, it can dimple the surface the torque converter clutch rides on and ruin or shorten its life.
Lucky you to have a 96. Mine is a pre-1995 and I had to a do a LOT more upgrading.
Folks like to upgrade with parts from a "diesel" unit. Specifically you want the cast iron overdrive planetary set. (The aluminum one is what failed on mine.) On top of that the gas ones have four planets and diesel ones have six. And upgrade I did. Also the four gear "rear" planet can be upgraded from four to six. A mod I did not do as I'm not making that kind of power.
I replace the "boost valve" on every Ford that has one, it's a high wear item. Sonnax sells one that uses o-rings which is nice if there is a little wear in the bore. You can also get one that has a touch stronger spring with it and a larger boost ratio. I would use that one.
I'd also put in one of their "line-to-lube" valves. Because they are prone to trouble and wear. You can go to Sonnax.com for some very good explanations of what you want these for and a whole lot more. Pay special attention to things stamped in red for "Hi-Po/Heavy Duty". A lot of individual springs and stuff they list will already be in your shift kit so you want to look at that. No need to duplicate what you have from Transgo.
One of the most important things is the torque converter. I think I spent more on mine than I did the rest of the rebuild. You want one with a billet front. (Makes one freaking heavy.) For two reasons. The rigidity helps with lockup clutch durability a lot. Secondly the studs you bolt the converter to your flexplate tend to "lean over" on stock converters subjected to hard use. This can not only causer them to break off, it can dimple the surface the torque converter clutch rides on and ruin or shorten its life.
Lucky you to have a 96. Mine is a pre-1995 and I had to a do a LOT more upgrading.
Yea, I may ride this one out till she blows at my current power level, it’s not worth it to pull it back apart after a fresh professional rebuild. I had it rebuilt two years ago now not intending to build the motor to the level it’s at, but here we are lol. I went way overkill on converter, got a deal on a billet front 4 disc diesel converter that has a 4 bolt pattern for the gasser flywheel. I think when this goes I’ll boost the 408w and build the Tranny, just wanted to know if it was possible to make this handle the power or if I’d have to swap in something else later. Truck should finally be on the road this spring. We’ll see how the 8.8 handles the power. I don’t intend on doing anything crazy in 4x4 with the ttb D44 haha.
Yea, I may ride this one out till she blows at my current power level, it’s not worth it to pull it back apart after a fresh professional rebuild. I had it rebuilt two years ago now not intending to build the motor to the level it’s at, but here we are lol. I went way overkill on converter, got a deal on a billet front 4 disc diesel converter that has a 4 bolt pattern for the gasser flywheel. I think when this goes I’ll boost the 408w and build the Tranny, just wanted to know if it was possible to make this handle the power or if I’d have to swap in something else later. Truck should finally be on the road this spring. We’ll see how the 8.8 handles the power. I don’t intend on doing anything crazy in 4x4 with the ttb D44 haha.
I doubt that the transmission will have the slightest difficulty handling your 408.
Spend some money on the output shaft.
My 94 E4OD output shaft was bent, and another member on here mentioned there's snapped with 500+ hp.
It's like one of the first pieces to go into the trans, do that, I recommend.
If I build another, that will be one of the first parts I buy to upgrade.
I don't think it's the output shaft that breaks but the input shaft. There are much more HD input shafts vs output shafts for sale.
I'm going down this rabbit hole right now. Basically, I will be going the diesel HD route. Cast iron carriers for the planetary gears, 4 OD, 6 front, and 6 rear. Extra clutches where I can get them in, kolene and red clutches too. A Tugger kit as well as the common upgrades from Sonnex. Good luck finding a 45 sprag, I have purchased about 5 now and they all get canceled. No one seems to have them in stock. I hope someone does in a month or two because that is when I plan to install it for the summer camping season.
I just got my converter upgraded [billet, extra clutches, harden splines, stock stall] so it is ready to go. My goal is for it to handle the Kenne-Bell 408 stroker that should be done next year. I suspect it will be overkill, but better that way then stuck on the side of the road for someone else to fix it.
Nice man. What kind of power do you think you’ll see? I’ve decided on nitrous, probably a 150 shot which is obviously too much so I’ll try to only spray after I’ve launched to give everything the best chance. If that goes I’ll send in my core and have it built with some diesel parts and billet input plus some clutches and that should be fine for whatever I throw at it.
I don't think it's the output shaft that breaks but the input shaft. There are much more HD input shafts vs output shafts for sale.
I'm going down this rabbit hole right now. Basically, I will be going the diesel HD route. Cast iron carriers for the planetary gears, 4 OD, 6 front, and 6 rear. Extra clutches where I can get them in, kolene and red clutches too. A Tugger kit as well as the common upgrades from Sonnex. Good luck finding a 45 sprag, I have purchased about 5 now and they all get canceled. No one seems to have them in stock. I hope someone does in a month or two because that is when I plan to install it for the summer camping season.
I just got my converter upgraded [billet, extra clutches, harden splines, stock stall] so it is ready to go. My goal is for it to handle the Kenne-Bell 408 stroker that should be done next year. I suspect it will be overkill, but better that way then stuck on the side of the road for someone else to fix it.
You won't find a 6 planet rear planetary very easily for the E4OD. They were made but not very many you would have to change to the 4R100 style 24 lug setup which is probably a step backwards vs the 12 lug C6/E4OD style. The stock 4 gear aluminum one will be fine. The 6 gear iron forward is easy to find and it is an easy swap. For what its worth my monster truck customer ran C6 transmissions for many years and he only broke one or two sets of planetary gears. His transmissions used the stock aluminum ones that had been rollerized some were 4 planet and some were 3. Those engines put out a ton of torque and they used 2nd gear a lot.
No the planetary sets are specific for each position in the transmission. OD, forward and low reverse are all different from one another. The low reverse/rear planetary set in the E4OD is exactly the same as the one used in the C6.
I did get a 4R100 rear 6 pinion conversion and for my purposes, I do not think it's a step backwards. I researched it enough and I'm pretty satisfied with my decision.
As for power, the truck is used to tow my 5th wheel. I'm hoping to get a good 500-600ft/lb of torque, but I would be just happy to get more than what I got now.