Big power through an e4od
The reason the 4r100 style is thought to be a step backwards is because that while the planetary carrier is basically the same except for the number of lugs the 4R100 version goes to a stamped steel reverse clutch hub which isn't as strong. Either one should be just fine with that amount of torque.
I had a difficult time finding a 45 element intermediate sprag too when I rebuilt my transmission but I finally found one. One place I talked to said that they sold 100 of them in 1 day and were sold out. I
I also replaced the overdrive one way roller clutch with the super duty and motor home version from this listing:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/184244030740
This is a direct drop in and it is used to drive the truck in all gears except for overdrive.
I had a difficult time finding a 45 element intermediate sprag too when I rebuilt my transmission but I finally found one. One place I talked to said that they sold 100 of them in 1 day and were sold out. I
I also replaced the overdrive one way roller clutch with the super duty and motor home version from this listing:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/184244030740
This is a direct drop in and it is used to drive the truck in all gears except for overdrive.
That is why I was not too concerned about going the 4R100 route. I do not feel I will be even close to exceeding the strength of the basket. I do feel that more gears is a better way to distribute the load.
I did look into the Super Duty clutch and was on the fence, but with your recommendation, I just purchased one. Thanks for the tip.
I've built many Mercedes transmissions and have no clue about this Ford. I suspect once I dive into it, I will find that it's probably a bit easier than the German built transmission. Certainly simpler.
I did look into the Super Duty clutch and was on the fence, but with your recommendation, I just purchased one. Thanks for the tip.
I've built many Mercedes transmissions and have no clue about this Ford. I suspect once I dive into it, I will find that it's probably a bit easier than the German built transmission. Certainly simpler.
That is why I was not too concerned about going the 4R100 route. I do not feel I will be even close to exceeding the strength of the basket. I do feel that more gears is a better way to distribute the load.
I did look into the Super Duty clutch and was on the fence, but with your recommendation, I just purchased one. Thanks for the tip.
I've built many Mercedes transmissions and have no clue about this Ford. I suspect once I dive into it, I will find that it's probably a bit easier than the German built transmission. Certainly simpler.
I did look into the Super Duty clutch and was on the fence, but with your recommendation, I just purchased one. Thanks for the tip.
I've built many Mercedes transmissions and have no clue about this Ford. I suspect once I dive into it, I will find that it's probably a bit easier than the German built transmission. Certainly simpler.
In my transmission I didn't feel like changing that much stuff so when I had it apart last time I just put in a 4 planet low gear set from a C6 that I had lying around. When I originally built it I used the 3 planet from my original small block E4OD core and after 4 years it looked fine. I had to take it back apart because it had broken the center shaft for some reason even though that's not a common thing.
The E4OD has a great big complicated valve body arrangement but once you get past the center support it is basically a C6 from there on back.
Maybe I am thinking about this all wrong. I will never really stress these gears out but whatever I put on these gears, the 6 gears will be less stressed than the 4 gears. Again, not looking for maximum load it can take, just that there are more gears to handle the load I do give it. I have no idea what the cheap steel basket will give out at, but I suspect way more than I would ever give it. I have seen what the builders do to make it stronger, but I am not looking into anything like that.
Because this 5th wheel is close to 12k, I want to know that the transmission will never be over loaded. Makes going over that long pass a bit less nervous. My original transmission was rebuilt in a hurry from a professional shop that was local and I would never recommend. I don't trust it at all. By me doing my own rebuild, I will feel a bit better knowing that it is done by me and that I know who to blame when I am stuck on the side of the road.
My same thought process will used when building the engine. Sure, it may spin to 7k, but I would design it to be efficient at typical towing loads and never exceed 5k.
Because this 5th wheel is close to 12k, I want to know that the transmission will never be over loaded. Makes going over that long pass a bit less nervous. My original transmission was rebuilt in a hurry from a professional shop that was local and I would never recommend. I don't trust it at all. By me doing my own rebuild, I will feel a bit better knowing that it is done by me and that I know who to blame when I am stuck on the side of the road.
My same thought process will used when building the engine. Sure, it may spin to 7k, but I would design it to be efficient at typical towing loads and never exceed 5k.
The E4OD in my truck that I built myself over 4 years ago has broken 2X. The first time it broke the aluminum overdrive planetary carrier that I had used from my core transmission I should have changed it to the iron one when I rebuilt the transmission. The next time it broke the center shaft. Both times it happened when I was just rolling down the road with no real load. Both times that I had it apart though everything else looked great. Absolutely no stress on the clutch material and fluid looked brand new.
The most I've grossed has been 17,200 when I was towing an 8000lb tractor back from central KS. No problems what so ever on that trip.
The transmission works great with the Transgo Tugger kit and I think that the shift quality is identical to my old C6 that also had a Transgo reprogramming kit.
The most I've grossed has been 17,200 when I was towing an 8000lb tractor back from central KS. No problems what so ever on that trip.
The transmission works great with the Transgo Tugger kit and I think that the shift quality is identical to my old C6 that also had a Transgo reprogramming kit.
Did you have the carrier with the ball bearing in it?
My core [which is not torn apart yet] is out of a 95 SBF/2WD. It should have most of the updated stuff. At least that is what the ID tag on the case confirms. I do have the pan off and it smells ok so I am hoping that most of the stuff is ok. If not, I guess I will be buying more parts. I cannot complain, I got the core for $100 and I expected that I would be changing out some of the hard parts.
I will be keeping my original one since it does work. Good spare transmission that I can do on the side of the road.
My core [which is not torn apart yet] is out of a 95 SBF/2WD. It should have most of the updated stuff. At least that is what the ID tag on the case confirms. I do have the pan off and it smells ok so I am hoping that most of the stuff is ok. If not, I guess I will be buying more parts. I cannot complain, I got the core for $100 and I expected that I would be changing out some of the hard parts.
I will be keeping my original one since it does work. Good spare transmission that I can do on the side of the road.
I certainly hope I do not need a case or even to use the original one. I do think I will take it apart and find out what I paid for. In some ways, I probably do not want to. Even though this transmission was rebuilt 15+ years ago, there is less than 10k on it. I am certain, I will be disappointed.
I finally got an actual tracking number for a HD 45 sprag. This was my 5th order. I was expecting another refund. They way my luck runs, it will either be lost or the wrong part. At least there is some hope. GPZ clutches/kolenes should be here today.
What do you guys think a stock one piece driveshaft from a short bed single cab will handle power wise? Think I’ll need to look for an aluminum one? I’m not worried about the front, I’ll break a lot more than just a driveshaft with a 4x4 launch.
Stock driveshafts with the stock u joints are very strong. My friend Wes drag races and his theory is the factory joints are the best. For years his truck had a home made driveshaft that he put together from junkyard parts, one end from a Caprice and another end from an Astro van. His '64 Ford pickup with an A460 headed 572 ran 5.70's at 119 in the 1/8th mile usually with about a 1.19 60ft time. This shaft never failed. Then somebody talked him into running a custom built chrome moly shaft and it lasted about 2 or 3 passes.
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RRE101
Clutch, Transmission, Differential, Axle & Transfer Case
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Jun 14, 2010 07:57 PM











