Yes it would as you run the pump first to fill the carb, pump the throttle to set the choke and it should fire right up but ..........

Know there are safety issues you have to deal with if you run any type electric fuel pump.
If the motor stalls it keeps running.
Crash and you cant turn the key off the pump keeps running and what if gas is pumping out????
Hook the pump to a oil psi switch so pump will not run unless motor has oil PSI but it will not pump fuel till the motor get oil PSI.
This would keep the pump from running when motor is not. You can add a push bottom to run the pump before start up to fill the carb.
Fords also use a crash switch that opens during a crash to stop the pump from running.
Dave ----

 

Update: I think my problem may have been two fold. One, the carb was leaking out so after a few days the damn thing would drain out. Put a kit through it to fix that, and installed a new fuel pump as well. It fires right up now after sitting for a week or more. 👍

 

Good to hear you got it fixed.
The only time mine is hard to restart is when I drive it and get it hot then shut it down for a little bit like run into a store.
The fuel in the carb boils and the vapor drifts into the intake so when you go to start it it is flooded.
Its today's fuel blend.
Just hold the throttle wide open and crank till it starts.
Dave ----

 

Dodgey,
I'm glad you solved your problem AND shared your fix with us!!

I'll second the fact that today's gas is not like gas provided when these trucks were built. Yes the cost is more per gallon, but I am lucky to have 100% gasoline @ 91 octane available nearby, and that is what goes in my vintage 390. Realize too, that octane ratings are not figured the same as it was 50 years ago...so I figure the 91 octane is about the same as 'regular gas' from the '60s. It is called Rec or Recreational Gas at some stations. Look here to see if it is offered near you: https://www.pure-gas.org/

I have not gone through the work and expense of changing over my entire fuel system hoses and gaskets that are not ethanol compatible....another reason to run 100% gas. We have all heard / seen the results of how ethanol blends corrode and destroy the carbs on our lawnmowers, chainsaws, weedwhips and old trucks that don't get operated every week and may not for a season. I suggest trying a tank full and see if you notice a difference in start ability mileage and performance. I did and will not look back. If you run all newer equipment - newer than Y2000 - it is likely non-carbureted (injected) and likely outfitted to handle the effects of ethanol-blended fuels.

Regarding heat under the hood, realize that if you are running headers, you WILL have more heat under the hood (and at the floorboards, starter) than if you were running OEM cast-iron manifolds. The extra heat can cause more issues than just "carb frying". Fuel line insulation wrapped in aluminum foil and a phenolic carb gasket may be beneficial in insulating the carb from engine heat.

Just my 2 cents,
BarnieTrk