2018 Rough Country Level/Opinions on leveling kits
#1
2018 Rough Country Level/Opinions on leveling kits
I recently purchased a 2.5” RC level for my 2018 ecoboost. Looked simple enough, just the pucks that sit on top of the strut assembly. But I’m at a loss for words after looking at the instructions. Basically, they want you to tear your entire front end apart, and have specialty tools to be able to put vacuum back to the IWEs, and it only take 3 hours. Is there any easier way, instead of dropping the sway bar, and taking the discs off? Like is there any way to just jack the rig up, take the strut tower bolts off, compress the strut enough to rotate it out and slap the puck on, and slide it back into place? I’m trying to avoid taking this thing to the shop to get it done, and I’m trying to get it done the easiest way possible.
#2
Opinions on leveling kits?
I just got '19 F-150 and see that the front end is nose down, I see ohter trucks that have a 2 inch leveling kit installed in the front end and I relly like the stance of the raised front end.
The owners say they did it themselves, bought a kit and slpped it on.
I wonder does this effect the handling and geometry of the front end, Is there much to it, or should a pro suspension shop do it?
The owners say they did it themselves, bought a kit and slpped it on.
I wonder does this effect the handling and geometry of the front end, Is there much to it, or should a pro suspension shop do it?
#3
No. It’s a process. I’ve done it a few times and I'm about to do it again on my son-in-laws truck. But I will be teaching/supervising him.
You can simplify the process by using an air hammer to hammer out the studs on the bottom of the factory struts. The you only need to disconnect the upper control arm and the tie rod end. You will need a big pry bar too.
When you get the strut out, drill the holes out slightly so that you can put grade 8 bolts in the same size as the studs you took out. The studs are what make it so difficult, as they are pressed in.
It’s really not too much more difficult to remove the rotor and caliper though. Make sure you have a torque wrench and torque everything properly when you reassemble it.
The first time I had a shop do it. It was $300, including an alignment. That was 7 years ago though. I had a shop do it because I needed the truck the same day.
You can simplify the process by using an air hammer to hammer out the studs on the bottom of the factory struts. The you only need to disconnect the upper control arm and the tie rod end. You will need a big pry bar too.
When you get the strut out, drill the holes out slightly so that you can put grade 8 bolts in the same size as the studs you took out. The studs are what make it so difficult, as they are pressed in.
It’s really not too much more difficult to remove the rotor and caliper though. Make sure you have a torque wrench and torque everything properly when you reassemble it.
The first time I had a shop do it. It was $300, including an alignment. That was 7 years ago though. I had a shop do it because I needed the truck the same day.
#4
If you are not well familiar with turning wrenches, have a shop do it. I’ve done it a few times and it’s a process. There are a few good videos on YouTube covering it.
If you do it, make sure you have a torque wrench when you put it back together. If you front shock aren’t new or relatively new, go ahead and put new ones in to save yourself some aggravation in another year or two.
When mine was new, I put 2.25” ReadyLift spacers in. The ride was just as good as before, and I was able to 34.5”’ tires with no issues. After a few years, the shock was pretty much worn out. I replaced them with Eibach coilovers and find them to be far better than the factory shocks.
If you do it, make sure you have a torque wrench when you put it back together. If you front shock aren’t new or relatively new, go ahead and put new ones in to save yourself some aggravation in another year or two.
When mine was new, I put 2.25” ReadyLift spacers in. The ride was just as good as before, and I was able to 34.5”’ tires with no issues. After a few years, the shock was pretty much worn out. I replaced them with Eibach coilovers and find them to be far better than the factory shocks.
#5
As said above, if you're not comfortable turning wrenches, pay someone to do it. Dealer did my wife's, I don't recall the total bill but we had it done right after we bought the truck. They were running a special, something like maybe $500 installed? I don't remember. Dropped it off and had it back a few hours later, not because I couldn't do it but because I couldn't do it that fast (no longer own a lift) and my time is worth something to me.
As for ride quality changes - none.
Any time the suspension is messed with, the alignment should be checked and corrected if necessary.
As for ride quality changes - none.
Any time the suspension is messed with, the alignment should be checked and corrected if necessary.
#6
No. It’s a process. I’ve done it a few times and I'm about to do it again on my son-in-laws truck. But I will be teaching/supervising him.
You can simplify the process by using an air hammer to hammer out the studs on the bottom of the factory struts. The you only need to disconnect the upper control arm and the tie rod end. You will need a big pry bar too.
When you get the strut out, drill the holes out slightly so that you can put grade 8 bolts in the same size as the studs you took out. The studs are what make it so difficult, as they are pressed in.
It’s really not too much more difficult to remove the rotor and caliper though. Make sure you have a torque wrench and torque everything properly when you reassemble it.
The first time I had a shop do it. It was $300, including an alignment. That was 7 years ago though. I had a shop do it because I needed the truck the same day.
You can simplify the process by using an air hammer to hammer out the studs on the bottom of the factory struts. The you only need to disconnect the upper control arm and the tie rod end. You will need a big pry bar too.
When you get the strut out, drill the holes out slightly so that you can put grade 8 bolts in the same size as the studs you took out. The studs are what make it so difficult, as they are pressed in.
It’s really not too much more difficult to remove the rotor and caliper though. Make sure you have a torque wrench and torque everything properly when you reassemble it.
The first time I had a shop do it. It was $300, including an alignment. That was 7 years ago though. I had a shop do it because I needed the truck the same day.
#7
It’s not too hard of you have all the right tools. But there is a shocking amount of disassembly required just to get to the shock, which is a maintenance item. I liked the ‘97-‘03 torsion bars better. Shocks were easy and leveling only required about 3 turns of the tension nut on the torsion bar. I have more time to do that kind of work now and it also helps that we have a 3rd vehicle now.
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#8
No. It’s a process. I’ve done it a few times and I'm about to do it again on my son-in-laws truck. But I will be teaching/supervising him.
You can simplify the process by using an air hammer to hammer out the studs on the bottom of the factory struts. The you only need to disconnect the upper control arm and the tie rod end. You will need a big pry bar too.
When you get the strut out, drill the holes out slightly so that you can put grade 8 bolts in the same size as the studs you took out. The studs are what make it so difficult, as they are pressed in.
It’s really not too much more difficult to remove the rotor and caliper though. Make sure you have a torque wrench and torque everything properly when you reassemble it.
The first time I had a shop do it. It was $300, including an alignment. That was 7 years ago though. I had a shop do it because I needed the truck the same day.
You can simplify the process by using an air hammer to hammer out the studs on the bottom of the factory struts. The you only need to disconnect the upper control arm and the tie rod end. You will need a big pry bar too.
When you get the strut out, drill the holes out slightly so that you can put grade 8 bolts in the same size as the studs you took out. The studs are what make it so difficult, as they are pressed in.
It’s really not too much more difficult to remove the rotor and caliper though. Make sure you have a torque wrench and torque everything properly when you reassemble it.
The first time I had a shop do it. It was $300, including an alignment. That was 7 years ago though. I had a shop do it because I needed the truck the same day.
#9
It's not simple. It's more complicated than it needs to be. But all half ton front suspensions are very similar these days. What makes the assembly line easier, makes it more difficult for us. The pressed in studs on the bottom of the factory shocks/struts is what really make it more difficult, that's why I suggest knocking them out with an air hammer. Might be able to press them put with a bottle jack against the weight of the truck too, if you're working on the ground.
#12
https://www.onallcylinders.com/2020/...rd-f-150-video
This is a half way decent video on removing and installing some Fox struts. You'll use the same sequence to install spacers.
This guy does it the same way I do, except for one thing, that's reinstalling the spindle nut, he calls it an axle nut, same thing. He did not show how to properly do that. You have to insure the IWE teeth are meshed up BEFORE you torque that nut to about 27-29FT#s.
If you decide to do this, I have a couple other tips for you. Just let me know, and I'll type it all out.
If you're handy with tools, it's not a real bad job, a little time consuming for the first time. I'd set aside at least a few good afternoon hours. I've done likely 5 or 6 of my own, and a couple of the rednecked kids around me, never a problem yet.
This is a half way decent video on removing and installing some Fox struts. You'll use the same sequence to install spacers.
This guy does it the same way I do, except for one thing, that's reinstalling the spindle nut, he calls it an axle nut, same thing. He did not show how to properly do that. You have to insure the IWE teeth are meshed up BEFORE you torque that nut to about 27-29FT#s.
If you decide to do this, I have a couple other tips for you. Just let me know, and I'll type it all out.
If you're handy with tools, it's not a real bad job, a little time consuming for the first time. I'd set aside at least a few good afternoon hours. I've done likely 5 or 6 of my own, and a couple of the rednecked kids around me, never a problem yet.
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#14
I've watched many of the youtube videos, and it seems like most are amateurs leaving out steps, adding unnecessary ones, etc. Everyone has their own preferred way to do things, that's OK. I'm one of those guys that refuses to eat liver too.