2015 - 2020 F150 Discuss the 2015 - 2020 Ford F150
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: Halo Lifts

2018 Rough Country Level/Opinions on leveling kits

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 01-15-2023, 08:56 PM
Dman Heafner's Avatar
Dman Heafner
Dman Heafner is offline
5th Wheeling
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
2018 Rough Country Level/Opinions on leveling kits

I recently purchased a 2.5” RC level for my 2018 ecoboost. Looked simple enough, just the pucks that sit on top of the strut assembly. But I’m at a loss for words after looking at the instructions. Basically, they want you to tear your entire front end apart, and have specialty tools to be able to put vacuum back to the IWEs, and it only take 3 hours. Is there any easier way, instead of dropping the sway bar, and taking the discs off? Like is there any way to just jack the rig up, take the strut tower bolts off, compress the strut enough to rotate it out and slap the puck on, and slide it back into place? I’m trying to avoid taking this thing to the shop to get it done, and I’m trying to get it done the easiest way possible.
 
  #2  
Old 01-16-2023, 01:15 AM
Saxon's Avatar
Saxon
Saxon is offline
Tuned
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Pelzer, SC
Posts: 482
Received 6 Likes on 4 Posts
Opinions on leveling kits?

I just got '19 F-150 and see that the front end is nose down, I see ohter trucks that have a 2 inch leveling kit installed in the front end and I relly like the stance of the raised front end.
The owners say they did it themselves, bought a kit and slpped it on.
I wonder does this effect the handling and geometry of the front end, Is there much to it, or should a pro suspension shop do it?
 
  #3  
Old 01-16-2023, 09:08 AM
JKBrad's Avatar
JKBrad
JKBrad is online now
Moderator
Join Date: May 2005
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 7,417
Received 809 Likes on 594 Posts
No. It’s a process. I’ve done it a few times and I'm about to do it again on my son-in-laws truck. But I will be teaching/supervising him.

You can simplify the process by using an air hammer to hammer out the studs on the bottom of the factory struts. The you only need to disconnect the upper control arm and the tie rod end. You will need a big pry bar too.

When you get the strut out, drill the holes out slightly so that you can put grade 8 bolts in the same size as the studs you took out. The studs are what make it so difficult, as they are pressed in.

It’s really not too much more difficult to remove the rotor and caliper though. Make sure you have a torque wrench and torque everything properly when you reassemble it.

The first time I had a shop do it. It was $300, including an alignment. That was 7 years ago though. I had a shop do it because I needed the truck the same day.

 
  #4  
Old 01-16-2023, 09:15 AM
JKBrad's Avatar
JKBrad
JKBrad is online now
Moderator
Join Date: May 2005
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 7,417
Received 809 Likes on 594 Posts
If you are not well familiar with turning wrenches, have a shop do it. I’ve done it a few times and it’s a process. There are a few good videos on YouTube covering it.

If you do it, make sure you have a torque wrench when you put it back together. If you front shock aren’t new or relatively new, go ahead and put new ones in to save yourself some aggravation in another year or two.

When mine was new, I put 2.25” ReadyLift spacers in. The ride was just as good as before, and I was able to 34.5”’ tires with no issues. After a few years, the shock was pretty much worn out. I replaced them with Eibach coilovers and find them to be far better than the factory shocks.
 
  #5  
Old 01-16-2023, 11:20 AM
99powerstrokedF250's Avatar
99powerstrokedF250
99powerstrokedF250 is offline
Fleet Mechanic
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,899
Received 364 Likes on 287 Posts
As said above, if you're not comfortable turning wrenches, pay someone to do it. Dealer did my wife's, I don't recall the total bill but we had it done right after we bought the truck. They were running a special, something like maybe $500 installed? I don't remember. Dropped it off and had it back a few hours later, not because I couldn't do it but because I couldn't do it that fast (no longer own a lift) and my time is worth something to me.

As for ride quality changes - none.

Any time the suspension is messed with, the alignment should be checked and corrected if necessary.
 
  #6  
Old 01-16-2023, 11:24 AM
99powerstrokedF250's Avatar
99powerstrokedF250
99powerstrokedF250 is offline
Fleet Mechanic
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,899
Received 364 Likes on 287 Posts
Originally Posted by JKBrad
No. It’s a process. I’ve done it a few times and I'm about to do it again on my son-in-laws truck. But I will be teaching/supervising him.

You can simplify the process by using an air hammer to hammer out the studs on the bottom of the factory struts. The you only need to disconnect the upper control arm and the tie rod end. You will need a big pry bar too.

When you get the strut out, drill the holes out slightly so that you can put grade 8 bolts in the same size as the studs you took out. The studs are what make it so difficult, as they are pressed in.

It’s really not too much more difficult to remove the rotor and caliper though. Make sure you have a torque wrench and torque everything properly when you reassemble it.

The first time I had a shop do it. It was $300, including an alignment. That was 7 years ago though. I had a shop do it because I needed the truck the same day.
That's why I had my wife's done at the dealer - I had too much going on and didn't have time to do it myself, plus it was her primary vehicle so having her without a vehicle was a no-go. But a couple hours in a loaner? Not a big deal.
 
  #7  
Old 01-16-2023, 01:17 PM
JKBrad's Avatar
JKBrad
JKBrad is online now
Moderator
Join Date: May 2005
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 7,417
Received 809 Likes on 594 Posts
It’s not too hard of you have all the right tools. But there is a shocking amount of disassembly required just to get to the shock, which is a maintenance item. I liked the ‘97-‘03 torsion bars better. Shocks were easy and leveling only required about 3 turns of the tension nut on the torsion bar. I have more time to do that kind of work now and it also helps that we have a 3rd vehicle now.
 
  #8  
Old 01-16-2023, 03:49 PM
Dman Heafner's Avatar
Dman Heafner
Dman Heafner is offline
5th Wheeling
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by JKBrad
No. It’s a process. I’ve done it a few times and I'm about to do it again on my son-in-laws truck. But I will be teaching/supervising him.

You can simplify the process by using an air hammer to hammer out the studs on the bottom of the factory struts. The you only need to disconnect the upper control arm and the tie rod end. You will need a big pry bar too.

When you get the strut out, drill the holes out slightly so that you can put grade 8 bolts in the same size as the studs you took out. The studs are what make it so difficult, as they are pressed in.

It’s really not too much more difficult to remove the rotor and caliper though. Make sure you have a torque wrench and torque everything properly when you reassemble it.

The first time I had a shop do it. It was $300, including an alignment. That was 7 years ago though. I had a shop do it because I needed the truck the same day.
I’ll tell you straight up, I rebuilt the 351M in my 1978 F-150, and it took a few days, and a lot of hard work and sweat, but I’d rather do that and drag my ***** through hot glass than put a leveling kit on this truck. It just couldnt be simple.
 
  #9  
Old 01-16-2023, 04:25 PM
JKBrad's Avatar
JKBrad
JKBrad is online now
Moderator
Join Date: May 2005
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 7,417
Received 809 Likes on 594 Posts
It's not simple. It's more complicated than it needs to be. But all half ton front suspensions are very similar these days. What makes the assembly line easier, makes it more difficult for us. The pressed in studs on the bottom of the factory shocks/struts is what really make it more difficult, that's why I suggest knocking them out with an air hammer. Might be able to press them put with a bottle jack against the weight of the truck too, if you're working on the ground.
 
  #10  
Old 01-16-2023, 04:26 PM
JKBrad's Avatar
JKBrad
JKBrad is online now
Moderator
Join Date: May 2005
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 7,417
Received 809 Likes on 594 Posts
I'm going to merge this with a similar thread that's running now too.
 
  #11  
Old 01-18-2023, 12:17 AM
Saxon's Avatar
Saxon
Saxon is offline
Tuned
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Pelzer, SC
Posts: 482
Received 6 Likes on 4 Posts
Hey 99powerstrokedF250, you say no change in ride quality, thats good.
What bout any change in handling or feel?
 
  #12  
Old 01-23-2023, 01:54 PM
johnday's Avatar
johnday
johnday is online now
Cargo Master
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: barton city mi
Posts: 2,559
Received 246 Likes on 108 Posts
https://www.onallcylinders.com/2020/...rd-f-150-video
This is a half way decent video on removing and installing some Fox struts. You'll use the same sequence to install spacers.
This guy does it the same way I do, except for one thing, that's reinstalling the spindle nut, he calls it an axle nut, same thing. He did not show how to properly do that. You have to insure the IWE teeth are meshed up BEFORE you torque that nut to about 27-29FT#s.
If you decide to do this, I have a couple other tips for you. Just let me know, and I'll type it all out.
If you're handy with tools, it's not a real bad job, a little time consuming for the first time. I'd set aside at least a few good afternoon hours. I've done likely 5 or 6 of my own, and a couple of the rednecked kids around me, never a problem yet.
 
  #13  
Old 01-23-2023, 02:09 PM
JKBrad's Avatar
JKBrad
JKBrad is online now
Moderator
Join Date: May 2005
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 7,417
Received 809 Likes on 594 Posts
It gets easier the more you do it. Even from one side to the next, if you've never done it.
 
The following users liked this post:
  #14  
Old 01-23-2023, 02:33 PM
johnday's Avatar
johnday
johnday is online now
Cargo Master
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: barton city mi
Posts: 2,559
Received 246 Likes on 108 Posts
Originally Posted by JKBrad
It gets easier the more you do it. Even from one side to the next, if you've never done it.
It sure does. On my own stuff, I really take my time since I have another truck, but not everyone has that luxury.
I've watched many of the youtube videos, and it seems like most are amateurs leaving out steps, adding unnecessary ones, etc. Everyone has their own preferred way to do things, that's OK. I'm one of those guys that refuses to eat liver too.
 
  #15  
Old 01-23-2023, 04:25 PM
JKBrad's Avatar
JKBrad
JKBrad is online now
Moderator
Join Date: May 2005
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 7,417
Received 809 Likes on 594 Posts
I hate organ meat, and sheep. But that’s another topic.

I like doing things myself because I can get everything nice and clean before reassembly. I know everything is torqued too
 
The following users liked this post:


Quick Reply: 2018 Rough Country Level/Opinions on leveling kits



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:03 PM.