I converted to front disks on my 68 a few years back. for simplicity of the job I just swapped the entire front suspension from a '70's truck. the problem I am having is....

I am now going to rebuild the front end and I have no idea what year the suspension components are, therefore which bushings, tie rods, etc... should I use?

I know the kingpins are different from year to year, just dont know which years.
also, I dont know if the bushings are different for the various other parts.

any help would be great.

-Ken

 

As far as I know, I believe that there are two sets of kingpins, one for drum brake trucks, and one for disk brake trucks. The only other thing is if you want plastic or bronse bushings for the spindles. The rest of the bushings, axle pivot, and radius arm are the same, 65-79.

 

I have been doing some research and that is basically what I have found as well, just needed someone to back me up.
thanks

 

Dunno, if you are using a 70's spindle, seems you would need the 70's kingpin set. I don't know what the differerence would be.
I would use bronze bushings myself. They are better than the nylon. But you will need to take the axles or spindles to a machine shop to have the spindle pressed out, and the new bushings reamed, unless you have a reamer. I think taking the whole axle off and going to a machine shop is the easiest way to go, and gives the best results. I did all mine last June. Getting the old kingpins out of the spindles is a royal PIA in most cases. I had a torch and all the weight of the truck on it and it still wouldnt' budge. I'll never bother with that again. I'll yank the axles and go to a machine shop if I ever do it again. They don't charge much for it, and you'll like the nice tight ream, assuming they do it properly. The best ream is where the kingpin will fit into the spindle and turn easily, but not easily fall out of the spindle from it's own weight. When you get the pin in, if you have any up/down slop, use the shims that come with the rebuild kit. I had to use one shim on mine for them to be really nice and tight. Note the correct position of the load bearings! They only go one way. Should be marked on them which way is up. The "open" end will face down if I remember right. Double check that...It's pretty critical. You'll enjoy your "new" frontend. Mine is like a different truck. I also changed all the steering parts while I was at it. MK

 

NM5K, I agree with the "NEW TRUCK" statement.
a friend rebuilt his 74 and WOW what a difference

 

I am in the process of gathering the parts for the conversion myself, on my '68. After checking at my NAPA store it seemed likely that the kingpins were the same between the F100 and the F250, as they showed the same part number first, then a different one. Also the tech article here said just get the parts and switch them, without mentioning any possible differences. And I asked on this forum and most replies were that they should interchange. However, fasttexan did mention there were differences depending on gross weight. So I bit and had the spindles and all shipped to me from a guy parting out a '72 F250. Well, fastexan was absolutely correct. The spindles that came to me are just under 1 1/16" while the ones I have and a NOS F250 set I got cheap off eBay are just under 7/8". Figures.

So while we're asking such questions does one of you fine gentlemen know if the I-beams from that F250 will bolt up to my frame and springs, etc. of my F100? Seems to me they would, anyone know for sure? Pat67shorty, is that part of what you meant when you said "everything else is the same"?

Thanks,
Roger

 

that is another thing about mine, I am not even positive the yard I got my frontend parts from pulled them from a 1/2 or 3/4 ton unless the 1/2 ton was the only one with the 5 on 5 1/2 lug pattern. then it would definitely be a 1/2 ton

 

I've heard tell the f-250 camper special kingpins were larger than the stock f-250 kingpins. Not sure on that though. Could explain why you got two sizes. Myself, I'd be kind of surpised if they used the same pin between the f-250 and f-100-150's, but I guess it's quite possible. Not sure about the i-beam switch. Don't see why not, but there may be a hook... I got lucky on mine. They gave me the right ones from the start. Mines not a camper special. BTW, another thing I did...When I replaced them, I coated the spindle holes with anti-seize paste. Might make taking them out easier next time if I ever have to do it. MK

 

Initially I also thought there should be a difference between a 3/4 ton and a 1/2 ton but the bit of research I did indicated not always, probably not even most of the time. It looks now like they made quasi-3/4 ton trucks which shared some 1/2 ton parts, and then also 3/4 ton trucks with some real changes.

Given that the motors and related running gear could well be the same between F100's and F250's and that the bodies are the same, I would think the difference would have to be mainly in the suspension. Either the 1/2 tons were overbuilt (doubt it) or some 3/4 tons were underbuilt (more like it), but I can tell you the 1/2 ton (or whatever) kingpins look positively WEENY compared to the larger optional (?) ones from the F250. I've had my truck more than twenty years and put well over 200,000 miles on it and now suddenly I'm suspicious of those weeny looking kingpins. Guess I'll be changing I-beams. Get those little buggers out of there.

MK, years ago I made a habit of putting anti-sieze compound on virtually everything I work on. So I know when I work on it next I will have a much easier go of it. And I know it will be me working on it next. Lawn mower, tractor, car, truck, I use it everywhere. Great stuff, wouldn't do without it. One little container of it will last about half the rest of your natural life and the few extra minutes spent putting on is more than worth it the next time around.

Roger

 

rmt, I agree about the anti- seize. The newer anti-seize compounds even have sealing properties so you can use it in place of teflon tape on fittings.

 

I read a post from another user afew months back who said he changed from 3/4 ton to 1/2 ton I-beams. Which should mean you could go the other way. I have two of those light duty F-250s and I really like them. I think the 68 has a 6100 gvw and the 72 has 6200. The 72 has been a great pickup and with the big disc brakes and full floater rear I have what is a nice combo. Good brakes and a little beefier that a 1/2 ton but it still rides nice. The non-power drums on the 68 are scarey. I have my eye on a disc set upon a 75 supercab. I just don't have a place to work right now. And actually I am just looking for a heavier duty F-250 with a 390 or 460 and 4 speed that already had power steering and brakes and a/c. I have decided it would be easier and cheaper to just get the pickup I want and sell the 68. It is a 240, C4 with 4.10s.

 

Yea, I got in the habit of anti seize from working on our toyota camry. You forget the paste on those aluminum engines and you will be in trouble. I had to change the timing belt, water pump, etc, etc a while back. But I use it on most all of them now, even my spark plug threads on the ford. I have a tube of it, but I also keep a couple of those little .99 cent packs you see at the autoparts just in case I can't find the tube.. Even one of those little packs goes a long way because you don't need much. BTW...I doubt you would have a problem even with the small size kingpins. They are pretty strong. Even the thinner ones. You'd probably bust something else before they broke...You've got 200k and they are still in one piece... MK

 

I know, I was just joking about the kingpins, guess my sarcasm didn't show through. Obviously they are up to the task as I have over 310,000 miles on my pickup. It had about 85,000 when I bought it from my brother. But in the Tim Allen tradition bigger must always be better, although mainly I'm going to use them because I now already have them and parts for these things are too hard to come by down here.

I know what you mean about the dissimilar metal electrolysis problem with aluminum and steel. I have an older Mercedes and in many instances it has bolts into aluminum. Godzilla would have have trouble getting some of that stuff apart. At times it can be impossible, something has to be broken or otherwise destroyed. While I'm cussing I'm thinking "If they had just put a little anti-sieze on it! But nooo..." The little tubes are handy but even then I like to to use an acid brush with about half the length of the bristles cut off to spread it into the threads etc. And I keep a pack off pipe cleaners (the smoking kind) around to put it inside holes and nuts. I always do both parts.