Where can I find a wire harness for my 65 f2 I keep finding one for 500 to 700$... Surely they aren't that expensive right or an I just searching wrong

 

I bought the pricey American Autowire complete harness 3 years ago for $575, and now they're going for $720. (+ $145) So I guess that is what you're looking at.
I was happy to get through a 100% rewire for various reasons, but in doing so I realized that I could have definitely repaired what I had for a small fraction of the price and effort. Also, the rewire cost even more because I was inspired to add or upgrade this and that and throw money at it while I was doing the work.
What's your starting point, goals and needs?
These are simple electrical systems and you might be able to splice and dice your way to a running and reliable machine.

 

THank you and I'm trying to figure out why it's cranking over slowly I've replaced starter. Solenoid new battery.. etc I know that the wiring harness from the firewall are old maybe even original so that's what I'm wanting to replace I may have found one from LMC for around 90$ thoughts?

 

If it is cranking, but cranking slowly and has a good battery, my first guess would be poor connection somewhere between the neg battery post and the starter, since ground connections are usually more abused and neglected than positive connections.
The positive side is 'wired' to the starter, but the negative side needs to travel through the bell housing, then usually the block then some strap or cable to the frame or body and then to the neg battery post. (A new harness kit will probably not include any negative side items, so a new kit doesn't even address the most likely issue).
Find the total path from the starter housing to the neg post of the battery. Remove and clean any cable type connections, including at the battery post. A basic job will likely do it, but I like to remove the connections, use sand paper or wire brush, to clean to bright shiny metal, then put a bit of grease on it, then re-attach tightly. The metal squeezes the grease away and makes contact, but the grease keeps if from re-oxidizing too quickly.
If that doesn't fix it, do the same thing for the positive side of the connection between the battery post and the starter. Even if it looks good, remove, clean and replace all the connections points.

BTW, my truck likes to fail at the positive post of the battery - if it doesn't crank, I loosen and move around and re-tighten the positive post cable clamp, and then it starts right up.
I also had a problem where the battery clamp was not connected well to the battery cable - I soldered it up solid and the problem went away.
In general, electrical systems fail at the connectors - either where the wires go into the back of the connector, or at the actual connection point - so look at all of those.

 

If your under-dash harness is usable and hasn't been cut up all the under-hood harnesses are reproduced and aren't killer expensive.
gauge feed harness Dennis Carpenter Ford Restoration Parts for Trucks, Broncos, Cars, Tractors and Cushman Scooters (dennis-carpenter.com)
At the very least you need the dash to engine harness. The connector plugs at the firewall are very prone to corrosion and can be difficult to unplug. Use a rolled-up piece of sandpaper and clean them up. It doesn't hurt to put a little silicone dielectric paste on them before you plug them in. The re-pop harnesses are plug and play with all the correct connectors and wire colors.

 

Thank you that helps a lot... The battery ground goes straight to the motor by the alternator.. however I could not find à ground for the starter housing so what are your thoughts on that

 

Thank you I was hoping to find something like that

 

The ground is connected through all the metal in the engine block, to the bell housing, to the face and screws of the starter. So just check that one cable between battery and block.
It could also be something like a bunch of paint between the starter face and bell housing, but I doubt it.

 

Alright what do you think that the screws being rusted could cause a bad ground on the starter housing

 

Maybe. There's a lot of metal touching each other down there, so the screws don't have to be perfect. But certainly wouldn't hurt to clean up the screws and check the bell housing and starter that they are clean bare metal

Also check your battery cables on both sides where the cable is inserted into the clamp or lug. I had to add solder to mine to get a good connection

 

If you have a multimeter with ohms setting or an ohmmeter you can use it to check between the battery negative and any surface that should be grounded like the starter housing, engine block, frame, cab, etc. and check that you have very low ohms between each - like less than 1 ohm ideally.

 

I added a group strap to the starter housing and still not cranking any better

 

So is that a ground strap from the starter housing all the way to the battery terminal? If so, that should do it for the negative side. If it's a ground strap from the starter housing to the block or frame, then you still need to check whatever is connecting the battery to the block or frame.
If your negative side is good, then you need to check the positive side connections at the battery, solenoid and starter.
It's a simple system - you don't need a new 'harness' if the solenoid is clicking. Provided the solenoid is clicking, then the only wiring harness problem would be those large positive or large negative cables from the battery to the starter.
If those cables and connections are good, then you need to re consider your battery, solenoid or starter.
There are a number of ways to trouble shoot this, with an ohmmeter or voltmeter or by hardware or cable swapping or bypassing the solenoid. For instance you can bypass the solenoid by using a remote starter or simply removing the battery side off the solenoid post, and touching it against the starter side of the solenoid.
Since you said you replaced battery, solenoid and starter and then had the same results, I would still be looking for a bad cable - particularly where the wires go into the eye ring or battery clamp - or a poor connection due to rust or some other problem. Next, based on my experiences, I would question the battery. It should be putting out 12.5 volts or so if you measure it with a voltmeter.