When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hello! First time posting here, definitely not a first time reader! I have a 1958 F100, but I’ve put in a 223 i6 from a different 1964 f100. Everything is virtually the same, but this damn valvetrain. I have struggled getting it to run properly for the past odd months. I thought maybe it was just has too low of compression. Finally did a compression test and all cylinders are reading just above 90psi. With the exception of one cylinder at 115. Not the best, but should run/drive fine enough. My biggest question here is if anyone has any information on how to tune these things? I’ve scoured the internet and read that you just bring cylinder to DTC and center mark the actuator over the valve stem. So, I did that today, and now the truck won’t even keep at idle. Any advice/help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for reading! I’ve attached some pictures to hopefully visualize
You're depending too much on the internet and not enough on printed words.
Sounds like you may have a couple of valves adjusted too tight and holding the valves open. You need to get a ford shop manual for a 1964 f100 or find an old Motors Manual for 1964. I have a motors manual for that year, but it is too fragile to scan.
Another problem I see is that Blue hose. Unless you have a distributor that has been converted to a dual advance, you have a Load-O-Matic distributor. That fitting is for the spark control valve and should be connected to the vacuum canister on the distributor.
Also the oil tube for the overflow isn't seated properly into the rocker stand. The hole in the shaft needs to align with the hole in the stand for the tube to fully seat.
When you adjusted those rockers did you back the adjuster off then push the rocker arm eccentric and plunger all the way in before you tightened them up?? If not, you have them way too tight and some of the valves are staying open.
Also the oil tube for the overflow isn't seated properly into the rocker stand. The hole in the shaft needs to align with the hole in the stand for the tube to fully seat.
I had been meaning to fix that! Tube was bottoming out and hitting. I trimmed it up and it’s back in place correctly. Thank you!
When you adjusted those rockers did you back the adjuster off then push the rocker arm eccentric and plunger all the way in before you tightened them up?? If not, you have them way too tight and some of the valves are staying open.
i had not originally done it like that no. But I just re adjusted them to the terms you said and it definitely helped. The engine will hold an idle at least. It’s a VERY rough idle though. I still think I’m missing something. I will do like you said and try to find an old shop manual. That seems to be my best hope.
And for the distributor hose- it is hooked up, just over at the intake manifold instead. That’s how every engine I’ve had for this truck has been. So I figured I’d just leave it. There used to be a rubber cap on the carb vaccine port, but it fell apart. Thank you for the responses! It’s all much appreciated
i had not originally done it like that no. But I just re adjusted them to the terms you said and it definitely helped. The engine will hold an idle at least. It’s a VERY rough idle though. I still think I’m missing something. I will do like you said and try to find an old shop manual. That seems to be my best hope.
And for the distributor hose- it is hooked up, just over at the intake manifold instead. That’s how every engine I’ve had for this truck has been. So I figured I’d just leave it. There used to be a rubber cap on the carb vaccine port, but it fell apart. Thank you for the responses! It’s all much appreciated
Try hooking your distributor up to where that blue hose is and see how it runs. The Load-O-Matic distributors that came in those engines do not work the same as the dual advance distributors. It MUST be connected to a carburetor with a working spark control valve in it. If you hook one to full manifold vacuum, you will have all sorts of drivability problems.
After you tighten the valve, "with the eccentric all the way back" until it stays back, very slowly loosen the adjustment until the mark on the eccentric is centered on the valve stem. Start it up and see where the mark is if it isn't centered, and the valves are ticking you have to readjust them with the engine idling.
Trimming your oil return tube IS NOT the solution.
As Hiball said you have to have the hole in the shaft aligned with the hole in the rocker.
Crop Duster is correct telling you to connect the vacuum advance to the carb, manifold vacuum will give full advance at idle which is not correct. Disconnect the vacuum line completely and then set the timing and the reconnect the line.
When adjusting the rockers are you getting each cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke before making the adjustment?
Crop Duster is correct telling you to connect the vacuum advance to the carb, manifold vacuum will give full advance at idle which is not correct. Disconnect the vacuum line completely and then set the timing and the reconnect the line.
When adjusting the rockers are you getting each cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke before making the adjustment?
I connected the line to the carburetor, and had no change. So I started looking at the timing on the distributor and saw it’s way off from TDC on cylinder one. So I adjusted the distributor to line up properly, and now the engine will now even turn over. So I tried to put it back to where it was and still nothing. Each cylinder is at TDC when timing. I turn the crank over by hand and put my pinky down in the spark plug hole to tell.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
