Carburetor Decision
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 26
Likes: 5
Carburetor Decision
Hello All. As a novice, I’m trying to make the right choice in replacing my old 2150 carb. I have a rebuild kit, but want to do that on the side, taking my time with my kids. I have a ‘73 F250 with a ‘77 351m in it. Everything is pretty much stock. It is automatic 2wd as well. I need to figure out if I need EGR or non-EGR as well.
The truck does not need to be a power tower or need to haul booty onto the freeway. It is a school truck for my kids and our school is a couple of miles away. I don’t want to go too cheap and have failing parts or have to mod out. I don’t need something too performance heavy, but from what I’ve read, the tuning on the Holley and it’s ability to keep a tune is much easier/better.
Of course, all of this is supposition on my part from reading your threads on 351m carbs as well as countless reviews on all the carbs I listed. What might be a no-brainer for you gear heads is a big decision for this theatrical carpenter. My big set building days are done for awhile, so I am trying to do something a bit more personally rewarding for my kids and me. Also, I can be home, and we can all share the sense of pride in driving a gorgeous classic truck.
Thank you in advance.
1. Economy—https://www.autokrafters.com/p-22283...sket-2100.aspx
2. Performance—https://www.autokrafters.com/p-22705...e-hc80500.aspx
3. Middle ground—Uremco—https://www.summitracing.com/parts/u...-250/year/1977
The truck does not need to be a power tower or need to haul booty onto the freeway. It is a school truck for my kids and our school is a couple of miles away. I don’t want to go too cheap and have failing parts or have to mod out. I don’t need something too performance heavy, but from what I’ve read, the tuning on the Holley and it’s ability to keep a tune is much easier/better.
Of course, all of this is supposition on my part from reading your threads on 351m carbs as well as countless reviews on all the carbs I listed. What might be a no-brainer for you gear heads is a big decision for this theatrical carpenter. My big set building days are done for awhile, so I am trying to do something a bit more personally rewarding for my kids and me. Also, I can be home, and we can all share the sense of pride in driving a gorgeous classic truck.
Thank you in advance.
1. Economy—https://www.autokrafters.com/p-22283...sket-2100.aspx
2. Performance—https://www.autokrafters.com/p-22705...e-hc80500.aspx
3. Middle ground—Uremco—https://www.summitracing.com/parts/u...-250/year/1977
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,238
Likes: 475
Either the genuine Holley or the reman Ford carb are gonna be the most reliable, IMO, IDK if I'd trust a knockoff. The other option is find another used Ford carb through a junkyard, Ebay or FB and use your rebuild kit on that, then swap it in. Should be able to get a used carb for well under $100.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 7,903
Likes: 2,372
You left out the best and most expensive option, a new Holley. by far the best way to go but you have to decide if it's worth the extra money.
Stay away from the Chinese junk , rebuild your own or buy a rebuilt.
Stay away from the Chinese junk , rebuild your own or buy a rebuilt.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 7,903
Likes: 2,372
I didn't see Holley so I didn't look, so yes you do. I suppose that carb would be good, I try to stay away from the avengers of any kind because they have some weird stuff but I've never tried a 2v one. what I have tried and like a lot is the 0-4412C , but you have to add an electric choke to it.
Either way a new carb will be so much better than imported junk or a rebuild of questionable quality. and yes they're easy to tune and anything you might need is in stock at any parts house. most parts are the same as a 4160 or any other 4V.
Either way a new carb will be so much better than imported junk or a rebuild of questionable quality. and yes they're easy to tune and anything you might need is in stock at any parts house. most parts are the same as a 4160 or any other 4V.
Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 26
Likes: 5
440 I really appreciate your advice here. I’m completely listening to and following up with reading on each piece you guys give. I will keep looking for an alternative before I make the purchase. I’ll check on any issues with the avengers. Think I want to go with a nice Holley though if I can find one.
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,854
Likes: 2,621
From: The Shenandoah Valley
Unless I was changing from what I had to something totally different, like from a Holley to a Edelbrock, I always rebuilt mine using a good kit which has good detailed instructions in my experience.I don't know if good kits are still available, last one was for an Edelbrock maybe 10 -12 years ago, used Edelbrock kit. I used to use Echlin kits or Holley kits. Mostly just gaskets, a few real parts, extra springs, *****, clips ... never throw that stuff away, glass jar them. Good light, quiet work place, clean table top.... with lip to prevent roll aways ... , not the kitchen table. I like building HO trains and race cars too.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: East Central Ia
Unless I was changing from what I had to something totally different, like from a Holley to a Edelbrock, I always rebuilt mine using a good kit which has good detailed instructions in my experience.I don't know if good kits are still available, last one was for an Edelbrock maybe 10 -12 years ago, used Edelbrock kit. I used to use Echlin kits or Holley kits. Mostly just gaskets, a few real parts, extra springs, *****, clips ... never throw that stuff away, glass jar them. Good light, quiet work place, clean table top.... with lip to prevent roll aways ... , not the kitchen table. I like building HO trains and race cars too.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 7,903
Likes: 2,372
Depends on the condition, if the core is super nice it certainly can be rebuilt to new specs. but if carburetors never wore or needed new castings there would be no new ones made. I've never understood why a carb is the only assembly on a vehicle most people think will last until the end of time.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,238
Likes: 475
Unless it got moisture in it and the casting got porous from corrosion, 99% of the time it's the shaft bores that wear causing big internal vacuum leaks. You used to be able to find local automotive machine shops to ream out and bush them for short money, but most of them have shut down around here. It wasn't all that long ago I could get a worn Holley, get it bushed and rebuild it for under $100.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 26
Likes: 5
SpeedFreak78,
Thanks for the knowledge. Around these here parts, there is no such things as radiator shop or a carb rebuilder locally. Everyone I asked about rebuilding it would charge more than 1/2 what I'd get for a Holley 80350. I figure I'd just go with the carb with better resistance to today's gas mixes as well as it being easier to tune. If I'm wrong on this, definitely set me straight. I also read that going with the 80500 Holley had a bit too much air, so it has a rough idle and overall rough ride in the lower RPMs with decrease fuel economy. I am calling Holley tomorrow, because I have no experience with this and hear all sorts of conflicting ideas even on the Holley forums.
Thanks for the knowledge. Around these here parts, there is no such things as radiator shop or a carb rebuilder locally. Everyone I asked about rebuilding it would charge more than 1/2 what I'd get for a Holley 80350. I figure I'd just go with the carb with better resistance to today's gas mixes as well as it being easier to tune. If I'm wrong on this, definitely set me straight. I also read that going with the 80500 Holley had a bit too much air, so it has a rough idle and overall rough ride in the lower RPMs with decrease fuel economy. I am calling Holley tomorrow, because I have no experience with this and hear all sorts of conflicting ideas even on the Holley forums.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,238
Likes: 475
I had the 500cfm 0-4412C with the electric choke kit in it and it ran fine, never noticed a rough idle. I never watched fuel economy, so i can't comment on that. That smaller 350cfm carb would work fine and have slightly better MPG at cruise. I'd say get the 500cfm cause it's not gonna be significantly worse MPGs and it'll give you some room to grow, performance wise, in the future if you want.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 858
Likes: 118
From: Buffalo NY
5th Wheeling
Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 30
Likes: 5
I am new here too and I find it a huge help to be able to read posts on the issues I am working through with my restoration (1978 F250 w/ 351M). I bought the truck in California so it has no rust anywhere. The truck was a one owner and it sat for 14 years due to his deteriorating health. It was rescued by a guy who does what I would call "light" repair - he basically gets anything he buys running, rolling, and stopping with the minimal investment possible and then he sells them at a descent profit. I bought the truck from him in April of 2022 and have been working on it ever since. I offer that background only because it relates to your situation. When I got my truck, it basically would run only if you sprayed a ton of carb cleaner in it so it was clear that I needed a new carb. I was on a budget but I ultimately selected a Holley and got lucky enough to find one of their "factory refurbished" units at a substantial discount from new. Here is a link for you to follow if you are interested:
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...rts/FR-80457SA
I have had great luck with my carb. I just bolted it on and it fired right up!
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...rts/FR-80457SA
I have had great luck with my carb. I just bolted it on and it fired right up!