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Just installed new fuel tank in my truck. Replace the sender and the vent valve and seal also. Wanted to replace fill hose but the one I got (p/n FNH122) is shorter than the original hose (about 2 inches) I checked a few websites and they all same the part number is correct. Also my sender isn’t registering correctly. The sender only fits it one way so I don’t think it’s backwards. If I put a new filler hose, can I cut the anti siphon hose off and just let the tank fill ? Lot of questions, but there’s a lot of knowledge here. Thanks in advance!!
The filler hose being to short is known and a big deal.
I want to say fillerneck.com ? I think it is has the right on or do a search for filler neck hoes in here.
Sender you did not say what year truck and tank, side or rear and I am guessing it is a long bed if it is the side tank.
There are 3 basic different senders 1 for the 19 gallon rear tank that all trucks have.
a 16 gallon side tank (short bed) and a 19 gallon side tank (long bed).
Did you match it up to the old one?
Working backwards sound like it is a later sender but it would then have electric pump assy too?
DO NOT "cut the anti siphon hose off"
It is not a anti siphon hose but a fill vent host and with out it you will be filling that tank till tomorrow!
Do everything you can to put that inner hose back in place or you will be swearing every time you need to put gas in the truck.
Both of mine are in place and I can fill my tanks as fast as the pump will pump.
Some have used PEX pipe to replace that hose.
I was lucky and had that plastic hose and just needed to put it back in place on 1 tank.
The other tank is a custom install and had to join 2 hoses together and used copper pipe and hose clamps.
Dave ----
What do you mean that your sender is not registering correctly? If you think it's going to be super accurate and "F" is going to be exactly when the fuel station pump cuts off, and 1/2 tank is 1/2 a tank of fuel and "E" is when you run out of gas, think again. None of them work that way. They give you a general idea how much fuel is in the tank, that is it. And each truck can be slightly different from the other.
Here's my thread from a couple of years back, showing where to get the correct hose from. I believe the correct hose is back in stock, it was out of stock last year...like a lot of things. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ller-hose.html
When I replaced the fuel sender in my fuel tank I used some fancy PVC tape between the tank and the hanger straps. This insulated the tank and the sender did not read correctly because it didn’t have a good ground. Adding a ground wire from the frame to one of the senders mounting / flange bolts fixed it.
When I replaced the fuel sender in my fuel tank I used some fancy PVC tape between the tank and the hanger straps. This insulated the tank and the sender did not read correctly because it didn’t have a good ground. Adding a ground wire from the frame to one of the senders mounting / flange bolts fixed it.
Interesting. I replaced my rear tank with a plastic tank that has no direct ground connection. But my sender for my 6.9 diesel only has two wires. One of them is a "ground" wire.
Interesting. I replaced my rear tank with a plastic tank that has no direct ground connection. But my sender for my 6.9 diesel only has two wires. One of them is a "ground" wire.
Carbed gas 460 here with a three wire sending unit. At the time I’d just replaced the stock in-tank electric fuel pump and sender assembly and now that you mention it I seem to recall the error in the gas gauge was worse when the motor (and fuel pump) was running. Thinking the stock ground wasn’t heavy enough for the new pump.
Miles later I discovered today’s replacement pumps for my application are not reliable so I deleted the in tank pump in favor of an external fuel pump mounted on the frame rail (that I can replace in a snap since I carry a spare The jumper wire from the frame to the sending unit is still there, but now that the pump and it’s electrical load is deleted, your observation has me wondering if the extra ground isn’t needed anymore.
Carbed gas 460 here with a three wire sending unit. At the time I’d just replaced the stock in-tank electric fuel pump and sender assembly and now that you mention it I seem to recall the error in the gas gauge was worse when the motor (and fuel pump) was running. Thinking the stock ground wasn’t heavy enough for the new pump.
Miles later I discovered today’s replacement pumps for my application are not reliable so I deleted the in tank pump in favor of an external fuel pump mounted on the frame rail (that I can replace in a snap since I carry a spare The jumper wire from the frame to the sending unit is still there, but now that the pump and it’s electrical load is deleted, your observation has me wondering if the extra ground isn’t needed anymore.
I think the ground for the sending unit has to run all the way to the dash guage so the change in circuit resistance is consistent. For an in tank fuel pump any good ground would be acceptable.
So I got everything sorted out. Got the correct hose, but now I can’t get fuel into tank. The gas pump keeps shutting off. Checked the anti-siphon tube and no kinks. Does that tube go into a notched opening in the tank, or does it just go into tank? Help !!! I’m getting tired of having to drop the tank !!!!!
So I got everything sorted out. Got the correct hose, but now I can’t get fuel into tank. The gas pump keeps shutting off. Checked the anti-siphon tube and no kinks. Does that tube go into a notched opening in the tank, or does it just go into tank? Help !!! I’m getting tired of having to drop the tank !!!!!
On the tank side of the vent tube it's held by a steel pipe ring. Right at the top of the tank. Stock tank has that holder in the neck. Some tanks don't have that support. The vent tube has a bump out around the tube near the end. That bump out holds the tube up out of the tank.
For my plastic tank I had to fabricate a tube holder:
What happens if I don’t put the inner tube in the the spot thats cut out for it? It seems that it’s causing the inner to kink for some reason. The inner tube is about and inch or so longer than the new hose.
What happens if I don’t put the inner tube in the the spot thats cut out for it? It seems that it’s causing the inner to kink for some reason. The inner tube is about and inch or so longer than the new hose.
Several folks have posted about their replacement filler hose being shorter than the original. You want to make sure you have the right one. Do you have the original filler? Compare them. Max has posted the link recently to the supplier that has the right filler hoses. Do not kink your vent tube. Won't work well like that. On my diesel the rear vent tube top fit behind a baffle on the top metal portion. If you have the right filler hose it should all go together correctly. These vent tubes are no longer available so take care of the one that was in there. Else you are off to the pick n pull to find one or make your own out of copper, pex...we've seen a few attempts to find alternatives here.
What happens if I don’t put the inner tube in the the spot thats cut out for it? It seems that it’s causing the inner to kink for some reason. The inner tube is about and inch or so longer than the new hose.
Without the inner tube, you will be unable to fill the tank in a normal manner. It'll be a real slow go as you already know.
When I did my front tank, I did get the tank end of the tube set into its receptacle on the tank end but somehow pulled it back out during the filler neck installation. It may be easy to do or I was just careless. It sucks to redo the tank end. I lowered the tank to the limit of the straps and started the installation over with the extra room to work making sure the tube was where it needed to be. I finished the filler neck end being very careful that the tube didn't move out of place.