Are SD lug nuts the same (99-04) between aluminium & steelies? Haven't been able to find an answer at the parts store (big surprise haha), there's just a dozen different types sans any application information.

I'm about to switch from slotted steelies with the washer style nuts, forgot to ask the guy who sold me the rims if he used that type or conical.

 

The stock alloy wheels also use the washer style nuts. If the new rims are aftermarket, make sure they are hub centric.

 

Those rims probably have the flat counter-bore just to allow any flange that might be on a lug nut to sit flush with the face of the rim.

Things aren't like they used to be when all the trucks ran lug centric rims in the same bolt pattern and you could mix and match pretty easily. Back then, even if the hub bore didn't fit you could just grind it out and you'd still be fine. Now, mixing hub centric and lug centric rims can cause all kinds of weird balance/vibration issues because of manufacturing tolerances and worst case scenario it'll lead to losing a wheel. I know people do it all the time and say "it's fine" but i was taught by someone that spent most of their life working at, managing and owning wheel and tire shops: cone lug nuts with lug centric rims, flat lug nuts with hub centric rims, you can't mix and match cause it either won't center the rim properly, or the hub and studs will be fighting each other and it's usually the stud that losses. You can run lug centric rims on a vehicle that was designed to be hub centric by running hub spacer rings that put the wheel load back on the hub flange, and then you need to run cone mis-alignment washers with flat faced lug nuts so the lugs can center to the studs or they'll bend if they aren't perfectly centered to the hub. And in order to run hub centric rims on a lug centric truck, the rim either needs to have the cone seat around the stud hole or the stud holes need to be machined to locate around the shank of the lug nuts and the rim needs clearance around the hub flange.

Between ridiculously high offset rims and people not understanding the differences in lug centric and hub centric differences, it's no wonder over the last 10 years or so I've see way more trucks on the side of the road sitting on a hub with 1 wheel missing.

 

My lug nuts are all the flat face /washer style. For both my single wheel and both my dual wheel trucks.. AFAIK this is the factory lug-nut fir Superduty trucks.

 

Factory wheels are hub centric. The hub centers the wheel and carries the load. The lug nuts only need to hold the wheel to the brake rotor. This style wheel requires the flat lug nuts.

Most aftermarket wheels are lug centric. The lugs center the wheel and carry the load. This type of wheel requires conical nuts to correctly center the wheel.

If you use flat lug nuts on a lug centric wheel you'll get all manner of imbalance/vibration issues.

 

Exactly what I was worried about, lost a few wheels in high school despite being torqued & didn't want to chance that on something which can cause much more damage.

 

Ya picked a fine time ta leave me loose wheel...
With 8 missing lug nuts and a hub that won't heal.
I've had some good times, been through some bad times,
But this time... I'm stuck in a field.
Ya picked a fine time ta leave me loose wheel.

 

most people don’t know that once a wheel is mounted and torqued it has to be retorqued after 50-100 miles then retorqued again. Steel or allumimum.
All wheels should be torqued with the wheel on the ground mounted to the vehicle.
lots of shops torque wheels in the air and customers never return for retorqued sequence.

as far as those gigantic wide wheels and skinny sidewall tire Hotwheels toy look is gonna go away like spinners or any other automotive fad. I dot care for the look but it’s not my car

 

@2001F350dualwheel
I keep a torque wrench in the truck (and every other vehicle I've owned), it gets checked regularly. Just had some bad luck in the late 90s/early 00s with rims either shearing off at the mounting surface (happened three times in my chevelle) or coming loose at the worst possible time, then flying down the road as I slide uncontrollably.

As far as wheel trends, the largest I've gone is 16", tires within what was a factory option. Can't afford the extra wear & tear on the driveline or upgrading to components which can handle mega mudders, especially on a daily driver.

 

youre the only person I ever heard of keeping a tq wrench in a car. We had a car that came with 16s and we went with a set of 20 as the optional. I hated the ride. Went back to 16s.
i rarely go more than one size higher than stock but I usually tend to stay stock size. These 295/75s I got were a fluke. They aren’t horrendously larger than stock. My whole thing is if something happens and I’m out somewhere this size tire isn’t usually in stock. Factory size tires usually are available even if it’s not eh same brand/tread it will get me on the road.
I haven’t mounted these tires. I may just sell them and get a set that’s stock size.