What Lug Nuts Do I Need?
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Posting Guru
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From: Northeast Nebraska
What Lug Nuts Do I Need?
I picked up a used set of aluminum wheels for my 78 F-250. Im not positive of the brand but they look like American Racing OutlawII's. The lug hole has a bevel to it so I dont think I need mag type lug nuts with the washer. I mounted them with some acorn type conical nuts but they loosened themselves. Do I have the right nuts and just need to crank on them tighter or do I need something like an ET style lug nut which are conical with a short shank?
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Atlanta GA
You need an mag type lug (basically installs over the stud and acts as a sleeve ) and one that has a bevel/acorn head.
Now, that being said, you may have a hub-centric wheel and it simply will not work on your truck.
Now, that being said, you may have a hub-centric wheel and it simply will not work on your truck.
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Posting Guru
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From: Northeast Nebraska
So I need an ET lug nut? I picked one up last night and it seems like it works. Only thing is it takes a 3/4" socket and looks a little smallish. I need to take some measurements to make sure the studs arent bottoming out.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Atlanta GA
> ET lug nut
Not sure what "ET" means...
> Only thing is it takes a 3/4" socket
Yes, that sounds about right. It takes a small 3/4" socket because the socket many times goes into the wheel lug hole. There is limited room between the wheel and lug and sometimes you need a thin wall socket even with a 3/4" head. Also, it is a standard size for most security lug nuts.
> make sure the studs arent bottoming out
You have to make sure the lug nuts do not bottom out against the rotor because they will loosen up AND you have to make sure the studs do not hit the inside of the lug nut/cap when tightened down.
If you put goo or maybe a slaver of anti-seize on the stud, when you tighten down the lug nut, it will show you how far down it actually went on the stud.
Not sure what "ET" means...
> Only thing is it takes a 3/4" socket
Yes, that sounds about right. It takes a small 3/4" socket because the socket many times goes into the wheel lug hole. There is limited room between the wheel and lug and sometimes you need a thin wall socket even with a 3/4" head. Also, it is a standard size for most security lug nuts.
> make sure the studs arent bottoming out
You have to make sure the lug nuts do not bottom out against the rotor because they will loosen up AND you have to make sure the studs do not hit the inside of the lug nut/cap when tightened down.
If you put goo or maybe a slaver of anti-seize on the stud, when you tighten down the lug nut, it will show you how far down it actually went on the stud.
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Posting Guru
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From: Northeast Nebraska
ET is extended thread. They are like a conical lug nut with about .30" shank. Sort of a hybrid mag/conical lug nut. I picked up a set and so far they seem to be workin. If got about 12 miles on them and every so often I get out and make sure they are tight.
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Lug Nut Woes
I have a similar problem. I got a great deal on some used tires and rims for my 1979 F250 4x4. The wheels are the classic white spoked wheels - 9.75x16.5. The tires are 33x12.5x16.5. Everything seems great except the lug nuts that were holding my original Ford rims seem to only grasp in the conical portion of the lug holes - they don't really catch much or any of the wheel. Should this concern me? It's like I need a slightly wider lug nut or some kind of washer. Any ideas? The people at the Firestone place were of no help, although they did install them and let me drive it away. I drove 3-4 miles without incident. Let me know. Thanks.
Dave in Indy
1979 F250 4x4
Dave in Indy
1979 F250 4x4
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