Pinion nut part #
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 258
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Pinion nut part #
Hey guys. Got a leaky rear pinion seal.
I changed it with a non oem seal and reused the nut. Does anyone have the part number to the damn nut. It takes a 1 5/8 socket to remove. I have the OEM one now too, seal I mean. I can't find it on ford's web site... Can find everything else.
2017 Ford f250 super duty 6.2 with 3.73s
Thanks.
I changed it with a non oem seal and reused the nut. Does anyone have the part number to the damn nut. It takes a 1 5/8 socket to remove. I have the OEM one now too, seal I mean. I can't find it on ford's web site... Can find everything else.
2017 Ford f250 super duty 6.2 with 3.73s
Thanks.
More Turbo
Joined: Jul 2013
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From: Everett, Washington
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2018
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https://parts.lakelandford.com/p/For...C3Z00811B.html
Not sure if this is front or rear?
Not sure if this is front or rear?
Yeah, buddy. It's the front one.. I already made theistakrcamd ordered it.. Thanks though!!!
Anyone else have any info please!!
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 8,483
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I've changed pinion seals, and had them done at a shop and always reused the original pinion nut, why do you want to change it?
If you're worried about it coming loose, you should be using loctite on it anyway.
If you're worried about it coming loose, you should be using loctite on it anyway.
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2018
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What's the deal with having to replace the nut anyway. I can just use Loctite, and Stake the nut with a chisel, No? Also. I replace this seal in the summer with a rockauto dorman style seal. I'm getting seepage again. I couldn't get an oem at the time... Backordered..
Please any help guys!
Please any help guys!
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 258
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I guess I'm just worried that the damn thing is gonna leak again is all...
You put any silicone on the yoke so the gear oil don't seep past?
I haven't taken it apart this time around... It's just wet. Not dripping... Checked the vent hose too. All clean.. Even ordered a new set up oem for the vent.. All 3 parts.
Overkill I guess. Just don't want it to leak again..
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Tuned
Joined: Mar 2021
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I've done many gear installs on the side... reuse the nut.
It could be a bad flange/yoke. If there is any groove in the flange, toss it.
Yes, install the yoke, throw some rtv between the yoke and the threads, and install the washer/nut with red loctite. The rtv helps keep the oil from wicking up between the splines.
Before disassembly, mark the pinion nut in relation to the pinion.. when you tighten the nut, go SLIGHTLY past your mark to ensure that you are setting it up with the same or slightly more preload.
If you're using a new flange or a new nut, the tolerances may be off so the above trick will not work. To do it correctly (if the diff has a crush sleeve) is to remove the carrier to ensure that you have the proper preload.
I guess I'm just worried that the damn thing is gonna leak again is all...
You put any silicone on the yoke so the gear oil don't seep past?
I haven't taken it apart this time around... It's just wet. Not dripping... Checked the vent hose too. All clean.. Even ordered a new set up oem for the vent.. All 3 parts.
Overkill I guess. Just don't want it to leak again..
You put any silicone on the yoke so the gear oil don't seep past?
I haven't taken it apart this time around... It's just wet. Not dripping... Checked the vent hose too. All clean.. Even ordered a new set up oem for the vent.. All 3 parts.
Overkill I guess. Just don't want it to leak again..
Before disassembly, mark the pinion nut in relation to the pinion.. when you tighten the nut, go SLIGHTLY past your mark to ensure that you are setting it up with the same or slightly more preload.
If you're using a new flange or a new nut, the tolerances may be off so the above trick will not work. To do it correctly (if the diff has a crush sleeve) is to remove the carrier to ensure that you have the proper preload.
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 258
Likes: 9
I've done many gear installs on the side... reuse the nut.
It could be a bad flange/yoke. If there is any groove in the flange, toss it.
Yes, install the yoke, throw some rtv between the yoke and the threads, and install the washer/nut with red loctite. The rtv helps keep the oil from wicking up between the splines.
Before disassembly, mark the pinion nut in relation to the pinion.. when you tighten the nut, go SLIGHTLY past your mark to ensure that you are setting it up with the same or slightly more preload.
If you're using a new flange or a new nut, the tolerances may be off so the above trick will not work. To do it correctly (if the diff has a crush sleeve) is to remove the carrier to ensure that you have the proper preload.
It could be a bad flange/yoke. If there is any groove in the flange, toss it.
Yes, install the yoke, throw some rtv between the yoke and the threads, and install the washer/nut with red loctite. The rtv helps keep the oil from wicking up between the splines.
Before disassembly, mark the pinion nut in relation to the pinion.. when you tighten the nut, go SLIGHTLY past your mark to ensure that you are setting it up with the same or slightly more preload.
If you're using a new flange or a new nut, the tolerances may be off so the above trick will not work. To do it correctly (if the diff has a crush sleeve) is to remove the carrier to ensure that you have the proper preload.
Thank you. Just clicked 31k miles
That's how I replaced the first one bud...lol Marks every where. I went a 1/16 past my mark too. Maybe that's why it's leaking.. I didn't use silicone anywhere.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2005
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Did you lube the seal surface or the pinion flange surface before assembling it?
If you put it on a dry clean surface, that can cause the seal to burnish the sealing edge and make it seep.
That wet area on the housing does look like it is just barely seeping, or it could just be excess lube that didn't get cleaned off before you put it back together.
If you put it on a dry clean surface, that can cause the seal to burnish the sealing edge and make it seep.
That wet area on the housing does look like it is just barely seeping, or it could just be excess lube that didn't get cleaned off before you put it back together.
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 258
Likes: 9
Did you lube the seal surface or the pinion flange surface before assembling it?
If you put it on a dry clean surface, that can cause the seal to burnish the sealing edge and make it seep.
That wet area on the housing does look like it is just barely seeping, or it could just be excess lube that didn't get cleaned off before you put it back together.
If you put it on a dry clean surface, that can cause the seal to burnish the sealing edge and make it seep.
That wet area on the housing does look like it is just barely seeping, or it could just be excess lube that didn't get cleaned off before you put it back together.
Also, I sprayed it all down with brake clean to see how bad it was leaking.. This is how it came back maybe 3 days later. Not spotting, just seeping still