Pinion nut part #
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 258
Likes: 9
You might be right sir.
But, not all shops are honest around me...
Also, if I do it this next time and it still leaks.
I will take it to where I bought it.
This is my baby.. I know it's only a gasser.. I plan to do 4.56s or 88s soon so.. Thanks guys. Pic is for attention
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 258
Likes: 9
OK so I tracked down the part numbers and did the seal. Did an OEM. Thing is, it's leaking again.. Is it ok or can I use silicone around the pinion seal body to install to the housing? It's where it's coming from. Like Im ready to buy a new seal again, drain oil, clean it, silicone the hosing then press a new seal in.. I'm at a loss. Everything looked good to me...
Input guys?
Input guys?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,641
Likes: 507
From: Phelan CA
OK so I tracked down the part numbers and did the seal. Did an OEM. Thing is, it's leaking again.. Is it ok or can I use silicone around the pinion seal body to install to the housing? It's where it's coming from. Like Im ready to buy a new seal again, drain oil, clean it, silicone the hosing then press a new seal in.. I'm at a loss. Everything looked good to me...
Input guys?
Input guys?
Truck sits very high and can cause lateral loading on the pinion snout, which will cause seal leak/failure.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,641
Likes: 507
From: Phelan CA
Another thing is those traction bars throw your pinion angle completely off when suspension is compressed/relieved.
So when you hit tracks or dips, your driveline joints fight that angle(even for a split second) and can cause the pinion shaft to deflect, quickly destroying the seal.
So when you hit tracks or dips, your driveline joints fight that angle(even for a split second) and can cause the pinion shaft to deflect, quickly destroying the seal.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 258
Likes: 9
Another thing is those traction bars throw your pinion angle completely off when suspension is compressed/relieved.
So when you hit tracks or dips, your driveline joints fight that angle(even for a split second) and can cause the pinion shaft to deflect, quickly destroying the seal.
So when you hit tracks or dips, your driveline joints fight that angle(even for a split second) and can cause the pinion shaft to deflect, quickly destroying the seal.
So what do you think I should do bud?
The output shaft is in line with the diff. I did all the adjustments to get them with in less the a deg. Like it's the same.
Should I un load the bars then. There BDS tracks bars so I can adjust the preload. I have the adjusted tight.
I got them for /to prevent axle wrap.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,641
Likes: 507
From: Phelan CA
also, you need to determine if the seal is leaking around the pinion shaft or around the seal flange/ axle housing. I don't see how you can verify that without removing the yoke. Did you make sure not to scratch or score the housing when removing the old seals?
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