Good Stuff. Those Grounds will get you every time. They should include a footnote in there wiring instructions to add a ground at certain points to make sure certain problematic areas are grounded like tail lights, turn signal and headlight buckets. Glad you got it squared away.

 

Yup, agree. As a rule of thumb whether I am doing a complete wiring job or just cleaning up existing wiring whether it's my own vehicle or someone asks me to do a wiring job for them the first thing I do is add 4-Awg wire from the battery to the unibody (if it's unibody) or battery to frame and then a separate ground from the frame to the body., and then a separate ground from the unibody/frame to the engine.

Then for each accessory (lights, stereo, antenna, etc. etc) I run a dedicated 16-Awg wire from the device housing (light housing, stereo housing, etc) to the closest metal, while using a multimeter along the way to ensure I'm completely ground. Any place I ground to I also make sure I take a small die grinder and grind a dime size spot down to bare metal. I never rely on just shooting a self tapping screw through metal hoping it will make contact. Finally instead of a self tapping screw if the spot permits, I prefer to use screw/nuts on the ground lug so I know it's will not loosen up. It's extreme I know but it works.

I'm my much much much younger days I did not practice good grounding and I cannot tell you the amount of hours I spent troubleshooting trying to figure out where the issue was. Since learning my lesson and being **** about wiring for the last 20+ years I have never had a wiring job that did not work the first time. I drive friends crazy when they bring their vehicle over but if I'm going to touch it, then it's going to be done the way I want it done.

Jim