So I picked up a low mile rust free garage kept f150. So it has been parked since 2016.
I'm sure I will have many questions but my 1st battle will be power windows and locks.
when I bought it the passenger window worked fine until I rolled it all the way down then does nothing now. The driver side was already like that when I got it. Power locks make a relay type click but nothing else.
The weird thing is the passenger window worked many times until I rolled it all the way down.
Anyways I just want to fix the windows and probably the locks while I'm in there. Shoud I just replace the actuators and power regulators or does this sound more like an electrical problem? There is a broken light blue wire broken in the d/s door boot. That still doesn't explain why I lost the passenger window motor.
thanks

 

It's common for the door lock actuators to get water inside of them and freeze up.
As for the windows, can you hear the motor running when you push the switch?
Did you check the fuses?

 

I think on this model they ha cb30 and I did change those. No fuses yet

 

As for the blue wire, is there enough slack to reconnect it? My understanding is the power for the passenger side is fed thru the drivers side, then back out to the passenger side. If you can connect the blue wire, I would try that as its the easiest thing to do. If that doesn't solve your problems, then I would pull the driver door switches, and check for power on both sides. If good pull passenger side switches, and do the same check. If all good, pull the door panels, unplug the harness from the motor and again check for power on both sides. If good, your actuators are bad.
As for power locks, do the same check at the switch and actuator wiring. If good, again bad actuators. Since the panel is off I would replace both actuators at the same time.
I would not be surprised if you find the problems. Its very common on these older trucks to find these failures. I've had both of them. And while its not incredibly easy to fix, its not to difficult if you have some mechanical knowledge.

 

The switch contacts get resistive over time/little use. They may ohm just fine with a meter but under load the voltage drop across the contacts overwhelm the circuit.

Use a small file and contact cleaner to restore the contacts after you verify the wiring is intact.

Been there, done that and have the t-shirt.

 

Well the passenger window was working fine with the blue wire cut. That's what is weird. I'm just going to replace both window regulators, probably not worry about the lock(I prefer manual and it's a 2 door).
I have to do some digging but I bet that blue wire controls the locks. I will reconnect the wire and see what happens.

Thanks all

 

Ok so I got both new regulators, I'm not going to worry about the locks yet. Does anyone have a good write up on replacement, seems there isnt much room in the door panel. I cant exactly see how to get the window of the regulator. Especially when it's all the way down. Thank's

 

This might not help much, as it's been a while for me having done this.
Pull door panel. Remove insulation. Drill out 3 rivets holding motor to the door. This should give you enough room to push the motor up in the door, to figure out how the glass is attached. I want to say its just a front and back nylon roller that sits in a metal frame glued to the bottom of the window. The tricky part now is to slide the frame off of the rollers. If you can get one end out, you should be able to get the other end out. If it is the roller setup, once you raise the motor up, you should be able to unbolt the motor from the regulator. I dont know how easy this will be with the window stuck down though. At this point the window should be able to gently be pulled up and out of the door. Also with the regulator unbolted from the motor, you may be able to slide it off the channel while in the door. The motor itself can be pulled out one of the various door holes. When re-installing, I just use nuts, lockwashers, and bolts. There is room behind the door panel for the bolts to go from inside the door panel and out. Install new motor. Install regulator the the glass, then bolt regulator to the motor. I may have missed a few steps here, but that is the basic gist of it.

 

This might not help much, as it's been a while for me having done this.
Pull door panel. Remove insulation. Drill out 3 rivets holding motor to the door. This should give you enough room to push the motor up in the door, to figure out how the glass is attached. I want to say its just a front and back nylon roller that sits in a metal frame glued to the bottom of the window. The tricky part now is to slide the frame off of the rollers. If you can get one end out, you should be able to get the other end out. If it is the roller setup, once you raise the motor up, you should be able to unbolt the motor from the regulator. I dont know how easy this will be with the window stuck down though. At this point the window should be able to gently be pulled up and out of the door. Also with the regulator unbolted from the motor, you may be able to slide it off the channel while in the door. The motor itself can be pulled out one of the various door holes. When re-installing, I just use nuts, lockwashers, and bolts. There is room behind the door panel for the bolts to go from inside the door panel and out. Install new motor. Install regulator to the glass, then bolt regulator to the motor. I may have missed a few steps here, but that is the basic gist of it.

 

I have the passenger side apart.door panel off, I can see in there. I'm no stranger to removing the window, just not sure how to do the window clips with it down,not much room in there.
thanks

 

Can you separate the regulator from the motor to give yourself more room? Should just be a few bolts if I remember correctly.

 

I bought a truck that sat for years and both door lock actuators were shot.
im prolly the least experienced here.
but I can tell you this ..I ended up getting the Dorman lock actuators ..the cheaper ones had less than favourable review.
on the end of the door on the outside you will see I big round rivet that holds the actuator bracket in place.

i tried to change the brackets to the one that came with the dormans as it was way more solid.
but gave up,it was to difficult to remove and reinstall…the ones I have have been fine for the last 18 months.

thats what i know…hope this helps in someway