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I have a 1978 F-100, 302, that is driven about once a week. I has always started and run beautifully. However one day when I went to start it would only run for a few seconds and then die, and not be able to be restarted. I finally noticed that gas was pouring out of the card, so I ordered a rebuilt Autoline 2150 from Rock Auto. After replacing the card with the rebuilt, the truck ran terrible. No adjustment of the mixture screws will smooth it out, and the idle could not be set. Screws finally left at 1.5 turns out.
When I sprayed brake cleaner around the base on the drivers side, the rpm increased about 100. Spraying on the passenger side of the base created a 200 rpm increase.
I then went to NAPA and ordered a carb to spacer gasket - removed the carb and replaced the gasket and reinstalled the carb. Same problem - truck ran like hell. The only change was spraying the passenger side of the carb base only increased the rpm by 100 this time.
What am I doing wrong? I will relish any and all suggestions and comments. HELP!
I used to have to run two gaskets to get enough material to squish into the imperfections in the carb and spacer to eliminate the vacuum leak.
Inspect those surfaces. If you have high points, you can remove them. Low points or divots in the surfaces, it's tougher to fill them but epoxy or other hardening stuff might work if they are too big to be "squished" with the extra gasket.
Double check any other vacuum leak possibilities like the vacuum tree if you have one, power brake supply, transmission modulator etc.
With your spray test it does sound like the gasketing though.....
I used to have to run two gaskets to get enough material to squish into the imperfections in the carb and spacer to eliminate the vacuum leak.
Inspect those surfaces. If you have high points, you can remove them. Low points or divots in the surfaces, it's tougher to fill them but epoxy or other hardening stuff might work if they are too big to be "squished" with the extra gasket.
Double check any other vacuum leak possibilities like the vacuum tree if you have one, power brake supply, transmission modulator etc.
With your spray test it does sound like the gasketing though.....
I failed to mention previously that I did use both the old (came with the rebuilt carb) and the new gasket.
You have a EGR plate below the carb?
There is a gasket between the intake & EGR plate that could be bad.
Also that rebuilt carb could have play between the throttle shaft & carb body and causing the vacuum leak.
Use the plastic straw so you can direct / pin point the spray to find just where the leak is.
BTW all you had to do with the old carb was tap on the carb body where the fuel enters as most of the time it will "bump" the float & needle closed.
Dave ----
The new gasket I had ordered came as a kit with a thick spacer to manifold gasket. I guess I will tear everything down again and use this thick gasket between the spacer and the manifold. Thanks.
Have a look here for the burned and melted EGR spacer plate. It happened from neglect and the aluminum ones were pretty much those effected most.
Wow! Thanks for the photo. So as soon as the rain lets up I will remove the carb and check the spacer place and replace the gasket. This will be my third time removing & replacing this carb!
Wow! Thanks for the photo. So as soon as the rain lets up I will remove the carb and check the spacer place and replace the gasket. This will be my third time removing & replacing this carb!
Replaced gaskets - same 'ol problem - running like hell - have to turn rpm up to about 1500 or else engine will die when placed in gear.
Make sure the following adjustments are proper. If the problem persists you'll have to pull the carb and I.D. the jet size and power valve. The power valve should be half the number you get for vacuum at idle.
It can sometimes be a slow process troubleshooting a fuel delivery problem and given its' suppose to be a newly rebuilt carb you expect everything to be within specs for your application but unfortunately now we have to double check everything and even then we may get a carb body they had no business rebuilding to begin with. The 2150 is a great carb once its' adjusted and is relatively low maintenance over the long hall.
Post back with any questions or progress
I have a 1978 F-100, 302, that is driven about once a week. I has always started and run beautifully. However one day when I went to start it would only run for a few seconds and then die, and not be able to be restarted. I finally noticed that gas was pouring out of the card, so I ordered a rebuilt Autoline 2150 from Rock Auto. After replacing the card with the rebuilt, the truck ran terrible. No adjustment of the mixture screws will smooth it out, and the idle could not be set. Screws finally left at 1.5 turns out.
When I sprayed brake cleaner around the base on the drivers side, the rpm increased about 100. Spraying on the passenger side of the base created a 200 rpm increase.
I then went to NAPA and ordered a carb to spacer gasket - removed the carb and replaced the gasket and reinstalled the carb. Same problem - truck ran like hell. The only change was spraying the passenger side of the carb base only increased the rpm by 100 this time.
What am I doing wrong? I will relish any and all suggestions and comments. HELP!
CB3
Carbs are easy to rebuild so I always rebuilt mine if needed, never would have thought to buy one rebuilt by who knows who? Rebuild kits are cheaper than a whole carburetor and include detailed instructions. Always ... "CLEEN IS KING" g when it comes to work area/bench when rebuilding. EYE PROTECTION as both a little air and carburetor cleaner spray is used.
Carb base gaskets to intakes or EGR spacers I ALWAYS grease both sides with wheel bearing grease. The grease seals off vacuum leaks and in time, the gasket absorbs some and stays pliant, and gaskets don't tear when removed. Grease even works with a used dry gasket if not torn.
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