Right now my steering wheel has to be tilted way left in order to go straight, so I’m trying to adjust it back straight. I’ll link a video of the exact process I’m trying to do with my 83 f150. https://youtu.be/atKWwr84mwk
I’m able to loosen the bolts but the “sleeve” threads are locked when trying to adjust the tie rod because of rust I’m guessing. The terminology made be a little off, but see the video for context. Any suggestions to help me ultimately adjust my steering alignment?

 

My very first thought on the matter:

What’s the rest of the story?

I’ve owned my truck almost 30 years and have never had to make any adjustments to the steering system. Even though your steering wheel is not centered, does the truck drive more or less straight if you take your hands off the wheel?

When did the problem start? Just out of the blue? If so, that’s more likely to be damage such as a sloppy leaf spring bushing. Or maybe the frame is cracked where the steering gearbox attaches, a known issue. Maybe a sheared alignment pin where an axle meets a leaf spring? How about the brakes dragging on one side?

What I’m getting at is you may have some other factor affecting the overall steering geometry. The primary symptom is the steering wheel being off center, but that’s not the root cause. Maybe it’s a blessing in disguise the tie rod sleeves refused to budge. The actual problem may lay elsewhere. Some back story may help.

 

Back story is: I bought it recently, I’ve had no troubles with the way it drives, drives straight, brakes don’t seem like they are dragging. The steering wheel is just not centered straight. So what the steering wheel “thinks” is centered staright, is not what the tire alignment “thinks” is centered straight. So in order for me to drive straight I have to have the steering wheel at the position that looks like I would be turning left.

maybe I should come at the problem from a different angle than adjusting the tie rod?

 

You could pull the steering wheel off and adjust there if it drives ok.

If you are curious though, the real question is where is the center of travel of the steering box? To find this out, you will have to disconnect the joint at the steering box on the steering linkage underneath, and then turn the steering wheel all the way one direction till it stops. Then turn it all the way the other way till it stops, counting the number of turns it takes. Take this number of turns and divide by 2, and then use that to put the wheel that many turns from one end of the travel, that is the middle of the steering box.

You may end up where you are at now with the wheel off, that is a good thing, just pull the wheel off and re-center it level. If you end up in the different spot with the wheel level, then you should do what you started and adjust it at the tie rod sleeves.

 

Dave,

I was wondering about this option, too. I've done it on other vehicles after centering the gearbox, as you have described. Had to dig in the service manual for an answer. On the F-series, the steering wheel has a master spline arrangement. It can only go on the shaft in one orientation. Basically, if the wheel is straight, the gearbox is centered. Without getting too far in the weeds, it's important to have the gearbox centered because of how the gears are designed to mesh. The clearance is deliberately tight when centered for good steering response. When off-center, the mesh is looser to reduce friction, and the feedback from the wheel's caster action takes up this extra play. But it's all a moot point due to the master spline on the steering wheel.

Is your steering wheel stock? If aftermarket, there's no guarantee how it is aligned relative to the shaft, especially if an adapter was fitted.

The manual also said the only way to center the wheel was to adjust the tie rod sleeves. But first, I'd give the suspension and steering a good inspection looking for signs of recent work, rust stains from loose parts, etc. Make sure the leaf spring bushings are in good shape and not worn excessively off center. If all good, you'll want to beg, borrow or steal a tie rod sleeve wrench. This special tool grips the slot in the end of the sleeve, and lightly forces it open as you try to turn it. Don't use Channel Locks, a pipe wrench, or anything else. This is one of those applications where the right tool is worth its weight in gold.

Here's the style I have:



This style has multiple sizes and works with a breaker bar:

 

My 1986 F350 4x4 had the same issue when I got it. I could take my hands off the steering wheel and it would continue straight down the road even though the wheel was showing a "left" turn. After verifying that the toe was set correctly and there were no issues with the gear box I just pulled the wheel off and put it on so it was showing straight down the road when I was actually doing that..

 

Hmm, now you've got me scratching my head. Do you have a stock steering column and steering wheel? The service manual was very clear the steering wheel could only go on the shaft in one orientation on the F-series truck. It had details about how to center the wheel on an E-series van, but said the procedure was not applicable to trucks.

Having a brain fart trying to remember how my truck went together. Been a couple of years since I had the steering wheel removed, but am 99% sure it had a master spline. Maybe by '86 something had changed? I was looking in an '84 service manual.

 

Our master Ford engineer who left us unexpectedly also said something about the master spline. I have no doubt that Ford might have put a master spline on there, but it doesn't seem to work, you can put the steering wheel anywhere you want.

I changed the steering box on my 89 when the bottom seal blew out. Everything was centered and good, all I did was change the steering box, and after that my steering wheel was off. It drove fine afterward, so all I did was pull the wheel off and set it to the correct position and stuck it back on. No problems so far.

 

It's a stock 1986 column and steering wheel as far as I know. If there is a master spline mine didn't work. I had no problem pulling the wheel and reorienting it.

 

yeah...where did he go? I hope he's well and he comes back with that deep knowledge base.

 

I have mixed feelings about that scenario. I liked the knowledge, but didn't like the attitude.

 

I checked his profile. Hasn't posted for just over a year. I don't mind attitudes. I never take things personally.

 

Was able to answer my own question today. Had to replace the turn signal switch, which is MUCH easier to do with the steering wheel removed.

There was definitely a master spline arrangement. The arrangement was a bit odd. The flat on the shaft was about 3 splines wide. The corresponding protrusion inside the bore of the wheel was slightly narrower. This let you install the wheel in any of 3 adjacent spots. Maybe 5 degrees apart, but just a guess.

If I tried to install the wheel any other way, it would be physically impossible. But it seems you could get it barely started and catch just the tip of the splines. Not sure how you guys managed to do it but I certainly could not on my ‘84. It has a tilt wheel, if that makes any difference.

Here is a picture of the master spline on the shaft. I highlighted it with a black marker to make it easier to see.

 

funny I’m working on this right now with a left pointed steering wheel. Thanks

 

That sounds about right. Each time I need a correction its very small, only a spline or maybe two at the most.