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Most vehicles ACC is accessed by turning the key towards you. it appears ACC is just before RUN but is hard to find, it jumps past to RUN.
I just listens to the radio for a few hours and I have killed my battery 3 times now because if this is really ACC it turns the fan motor on which draws 5A unless you change the vent settings to off. Stupid setup fan off should be on the fan speed switch!
Maybe the detents in the key switch are worn. I’m not gentle at all with the key switch. You should be able to transfer the tumbler to a new switch so you can keep the same keys.
If you’re conscientious about turning off the radio when you’re done, wire it to run when the key is out. It could be as simple as bridging the ACC power and memory power wires but ask an expert. You might need a diode or relay so you don’t energize more than the radio with the key out.
I don’t know if this is a standard feature but the Kenwood stereo in our ‘07 XLT keeps playing after removing the key until you open a door.
Maybe the detents in the key switch are worn. I’m not gentle at all with the key switch. You should be able to transfer the tumbler to a new switch so you can keep the same keys.
If you’re conscientious about turning off the radio when you’re done, wire it to run when the key is out. It could be as simple as bridging the ACC power and memory power wires but ask an expert. You might need a diode or relay so you don’t energize more than the radio with the key out.
I don’t know if this is a standard feature but the Kenwood stereo in our ‘07 XLT keeps playing after removing the key until you open a door.
It does sound as if the ignition key cylinder and/or the rod pushing the actual ignition switch mounted under the column are having issues moving to the various detents.
There is an "accessory delay" circuit or feature built into the E-Series beginning about 2004 or so that keeps interior lamps illuminated for a time, the radio is also powered and the PDW's will still operate even if the key is removed. That feature can be disabled through FORScan.
Discovered the issue.
First took the ignition switch off to investigate, FYI the ball and detents are located there. You have to drill 2 rivets to separate its halves. It had minor wearing then I noticed the detent i was using was in fact not ACC. ACC was located by turning the key towards the driver CCW.
My key/ tumbler didn't turn that way so I disassembled the lock and after pulling the tumbler i noticed it should turn CCW then i noticed the wafers sticking up on pins 2345 about 1mm. looking in the barrel at the slots that lock the wafers you can see signs of the wafers hitting.
The key was just to warn out and since it notched the barrel turning CW and was a bit gummy the key worked in CW rotation but not CCW making me think ACC was before RUN.
I had a custom key cut larger then the original then i hand filed it untill the wafers were level. Everything is back together and I now have ACC mode that wot kill my battery.
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