Stabilizer bar point
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 74
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Stabilizer bar point
Ladies & Gents, these photos are of the passenger side connecting point of my sway bar on my F150 4X4. I discovered lateral movement & thought the bushing was bad but upon removal of the bar I saw how much play was in the bolt. Is there a metal sleeve in there I can replace? I don't even know the proper name for this point! If there's not a sleeve do you think drilling it out & adding one would be a decent repair? As always thank you for your advise.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 9,606
Likes: 1,175
From: San Jose, CA
Hey there. That’s not actually a sway bar mount, but in fact is your lower “track bar“ mount.
And unfortunately this is an all too common problem with them. There was even a kit back in the day from a company called Ingalls alignment product that included a tapered reamer and a new bolt with tapered sleeves to anchor it in.
A very sturdy fix, but at $75 back in the 80’s was also a lot of money!
There might be other solutions, such as welding, but I’ve never had to do it myself so can’t comment.
And unfortunately this is an all too common problem with them. There was even a kit back in the day from a company called Ingalls alignment product that included a tapered reamer and a new bolt with tapered sleeves to anchor it in.
A very sturdy fix, but at $75 back in the 80’s was also a lot of money!
There might be other solutions, such as welding, but I’ve never had to do it myself so can’t comment.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jun 2020
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1TonBasecamp THANK YOU! That name would not come to me! With the proper name I was able to find a kit relatively cheap but in addition to the kit you need a 7 degree reamer bit which is over $100! One of the possible solutions I had thought of was just to purchase another bushing set & use the sleeve inside of a freshly drilled out track bar mount. Has anyone tried this method? Seems sound but I’m rather new to this so the possibility of unseen/unknown consequences is rather high!
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 9,606
Likes: 1,175
From: San Jose, CA
I thought about drilling out larger and putting a sleeve in, but as inexpensive as those bushing kits are, I would think that a more precision, higher strength steel sleeve would be in order here.
Something that’s very tightly fitted. And then I would still weld the bolt head on the back to the thick mount.
If I had more precision ability myself, I would also weld the front where it would be under the bushing, then grind it flat so the bushing would still sit flush against the mount.
Another possible method, though not necessarily a home brewed cure, would be to weld the hole partially shut and re-drill at the correct diameter fresh.
Then the bolt would fit into it like it did from the factory.
But I’d still weld the head!
Something that’s very tightly fitted. And then I would still weld the bolt head on the back to the thick mount.
If I had more precision ability myself, I would also weld the front where it would be under the bushing, then grind it flat so the bushing would still sit flush against the mount.
Another possible method, though not necessarily a home brewed cure, would be to weld the hole partially shut and re-drill at the correct diameter fresh.
Then the bolt would fit into it like it did from the factory.
But I’d still weld the head!
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2020
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Single shear bolt on track bar wasnt intended to drive 80 mph in todays frenzyied rat race.
I havent had issue with mine yet.
I did notice the factory 76s f150 steering puts a pretty good bind between drag link and track bar in off road sutuatiins putting alot of stress on that single shear bolt.
it is a big bolt though should be fine if driven sainly on the street.
I havent had issue with mine yet.
I did notice the factory 76s f150 steering puts a pretty good bind between drag link and track bar in off road sutuatiins putting alot of stress on that single shear bolt.
it is a big bolt though should be fine if driven sainly on the street.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 875
Likes: 158
Not i sure how id fix that. Maybe weld bolt head directly to mount. But not so much weld that I have a hard time cut weld when it comes time to remive track bar.
Welding the hole and redrilling has been a job in the passed thhats made me bleed pretty good. A drill bit that big is flat scary **** hooked to hand drill in good conditions. . One with weld in the bore is a nightmare.
The tapperd bolt with reamer sounds like a great fix. 80 bucks is a **** ton of money i dont have, just put fuel in my truck at 589 gallon
Welding the hole and redrilling has been a job in the passed thhats made me bleed pretty good. A drill bit that big is flat scary **** hooked to hand drill in good conditions. . One with weld in the bore is a nightmare.
The tapperd bolt with reamer sounds like a great fix. 80 bucks is a **** ton of money i dont have, just put fuel in my truck at 589 gallon
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,839
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From: The Shenandoah Valley
It doesn't look so loose to me. I just replaced my track bar (aka: panhard) bushings, it's a big bolt but I didn't measure it. The head locks in position. I would not weld on that bolt or the cast C-bushing clamp it passes through. Just tighten the nut and put the cotter pin in ... after you reinstall the track bar with new bushings.
You could cut some thin tin in pieces and slide into the hole beside the bolt shank if it helps you feel better.
Maybe push some J B Weld in the opening between the bolt shank and hole ... then put the bar back on and tighten up ... it'll harden up and act as a bushing without any heat and if ever you need to replace the bolt or those C-bushings, a hammer would knock that bolt back out of the way.
You could cut some thin tin in pieces and slide into the hole beside the bolt shank if it helps you feel better.
Maybe push some J B Weld in the opening between the bolt shank and hole ... then put the bar back on and tighten up ... it'll harden up and act as a bushing without any heat and if ever you need to replace the bolt or those C-bushings, a hammer would knock that bolt back out of the way.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 898
Likes: 70
From: Coos Bay
Pull the bolt and go to your local fastener center. Mic the shoulder and compare to a new bolt of proper grade. The new bolt likely has a bigger shoulder. Worth a shot, few $$ vs $100.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jun 2020
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Evan76 I completely agree, I avoid the highway at all cost because I don't like driving it over 55. She does 60-65 just fine at the expense of excess fuel but I just don't like it. As far as the cost of the repair kit I was pleased until I saw the bit needed wasn't included & cost an additional $100 or more! That pretty much ruled out that route!
tbear853 it was enough play to feel it on the steering & investigate but it's not horrible. Just trying to nip it in the budd before it gets worse. The JBWeld is a great idea for an easy fix, thank you!
Broktruck the bolt fits pretty well inside the bushing sleeve so I don't think that is the answer but it's worth checking to ensure the existing bolt isn't tapered inside the mount point.
Thank you all for your ideas!
tbear853 it was enough play to feel it on the steering & investigate but it's not horrible. Just trying to nip it in the budd before it gets worse. The JBWeld is a great idea for an easy fix, thank you!
Broktruck the bolt fits pretty well inside the bushing sleeve so I don't think that is the answer but it's worth checking to ensure the existing bolt isn't tapered inside the mount point.
Thank you all for your ideas!
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,839
Likes: 2,612
From: The Shenandoah Valley
If I were doing this bigger bolt, I would likely grease my bolt, maybe put a little JBWeld at the entrance hole end, then put the bolt in place, pack more JBWeld in from the nut end using a popsickle stick, then putting my trck-bar on with greased washers, threads and snugging the nut, then just let it set 24 hours. The grease is just a release agent ... one could do it dry but then it might be tough if ever needed removal.
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