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I'm replacing my thermostat on my 6.9l. I haven't done that job on a 6.9 before. Following the Chilton book, removed alternator, vacuum pump and tipped the casting out on the bottom bolt. Now I can see the thermostat cover. The back bolt is tight between the cover and the filter support. It looks like I need a special tool to get the back bolt, or remove the bottom bolt on the casting which will also free the stamped steel filter support to get more room. If anyone has done this job before please pass on any tips for removal and replacement.
Did you remove the fuel filter bracket? You can just remove the fuel filter assembly from the bracket, move it aside and then remove the bracket to get access to the thermostat housing.
Did you remove the fuel filter bracket? You can just remove the fuel filter assembly from the bracket, move it aside and then remove the bracket to get access to the thermostat housing.
I haven't removed the filter assembly yet but that is what I'm going to do. It wasn't on the list of items in the book so I was wondering if there was another trick. Thanks for confirming that I need to do that
I found that Instead of following the Chilton book and rotating the casting on the bottom bolt, remove the two bottom bolts first and then remove the top bolt and casting together which will release the filter stand plate. That gives a little wiggle room at the bottom and allows a tool in to remove the back lower thermo cap bolt.
Another thing that Chilton got wrong was the order of assembly. Be sure to place the thermostat in its inset before placing the gasket. You won't find it easy to push the thermostat into its seat through the sticky gasket. I had to lift the gasket to get it in. An extra step you can avoid. Be sure to pen in the corrections to your Chilton manuals kids...
My Chilton's guide also said the mechanical lift pump can fill the fuel filter after a swap. They forgot to mention the 10 extra batteries they drained cranking the engine long enough to fill the fuel filter.
My Chilton's guide also said the mechanical lift pump can fill the fuel filter after a swap. They forgot to mention the 10 extra batteries they drained cranking the engine long enough to fill the fuel filter.
I was wondering if you have the Schrader valve on the filter base? I have and old school screw on Schrader fitting from an old bike pump with the rubber hose attached that I screw on to the filter base's Schrader fitting and lead the hose end into a large jar that I place so I can see it from the cockpit. New filter is easily filled by my stock lift pump and when filled it spits into the jar. Only takes a few minutes of cranking. I usually crank for 15 to 20 seconds and rest for 5 seconds. When the hose spits fuel I disconnect the air bleeder valve and fire em up. I also try to change the filter with a warm engine which helps.
Chilton's is a good starting place but cook booking your way through their lists of tasks should be reviewed and critiqued before proceeding. I find their specifications are pretty good.
One final note on my thermostat replacement. The book says torque thermo cover bolts to 20 ft-lbs. You can't get a torque wrench onto the lower back bolt unless the fuel standard is removed. But you can get an offset closed end wrench on it easily enough. So I brought both bolts up evenly from both snug by feel. Then swinging alternately each bolt through the same angle, like 1/6 turn of the nut. Then as you approach 20 ft-lbs turn the near bolt through the same arc with a torque wrench, alternating with the same arc on the back bolt with the wrench. Do this until you reach 20 ft-lbs on the front bolt, then swing that same arc with the wrench on the back bolt.
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