Took a lot of effort but finally traced down all the Low Turbo Boost codes, turns out it had multiple issues, bad MAPP sensor (less than 6 months old from Ford - warrantied) Pulled the ECM and sprayed the contacts with Electrical Cleaner, and that removed another code, (crazy how that stuff works) and then it threw a bad ICP sensor I installed this morning. Finally code free.

[size=13px]Time for a turbo rebuild. This is a work truck, located in Commifornia so I need to keep it pretty much stock for the next two years. All probably go with a Hydra but I want to rebuild the turbo first. (has new up pipes and new MBRP exhaust)[/size]

[size=13px]Want to know who has used the KC Balanced Assembly DIY Turbo Kit - 7.3 POWERSTROKE (1994-2003). or any other recommended kits.[/size]

 

The kc balanced assembly works very well, another good pairing is the kc turbine matched with a riffraff 4x4 compressor wheel

 

I put a kc balanced in my truck last winter, love it. Paired it with bitterroot 160/30s and man this truck will run.

 

I recommend replacing the housing O ring as well, since you're in there. Not sure if the KC kit includes it. Worth calling them to find out.

 

Definitely stick with the stock housing. The smog stations look for GARRETT stamped on the turbo housing for the 7.3L. You could probably get away with going to the ball bearing Garrett turbo (GTP38R)) but that's a dollar investment for minimal gain, especially with stock sticks. Plus it's not rebuildable like the OEM GTP38.

Even though these are old trucks the smog techs still get training on the older diesels so they know what to look for. What you might get away with this time might not fly the next (I have that t-shirt).

Even with tuning my stock turbo kept up with my stock sticks (the billet wheel didn't hurt either ),

 

Bang for the buck that is probably the way to go. One step further would be a van turbine housing but if it has to look stock I wouldn't. I'd still do the EBPV delete pedestal and outlet probably just to complete your exhaust renovation.

 

I just did this on an OBS turbo, so a little different, but largely the same.

Not a bad job at all, I did it from start to finish in less than 2 hours.

 

You can do the the EBPV delete with a high flow outlet (looks stock) but you roll the dice if you delete the pedestal.

I deleted my pedestal and got away with it. I put most of my wiring in/around/over the engine in plastic looms so it looked OEM (gages, etc.). I spent the money to buy the EBPV code delete pigtail and routed the dead end into a wire loom so it looked like it was still wired up and working.

Using that mindset I was able to pass smog check with all the engine mods in my signature (including the visual inspection with the tech using a high-powered LED flashlight).

The only thing that failed was my mechanical wastegate controller. I had cleared that modification with my smog shop and I passed that year. Two years later it failed (different tech that new to look for the red/green lines). That was not a cost-effective lesson to learn, especially with spiders being out of production. Not only did they have to be there but they had to be connected also. Luckily some FTE members brothers were able to help me out.

It goes back to that training they get on older engines. Just because the engine has been out of production since 2003 don't think they are clueless on the equipment installed.

They could easily let some visual things slide but they never know if you are an inspection mole posing as a customer. If they are caught in violation it goes against the shop's record and the tech's personal record. Now that CA is moving to biometric logins and webcams at stations you will be hard-pressed to find any leniency in the requirements as the risk of being "friendly" is growing exponentially as technology advances.

 

EBPV delete, I don’t know what a pig tail costs… but you can do with with a 4 ohm resistor, 2 solder seals and a small butane torch. Took me like 4 minutes in the wind with 0 (at the time) experience wiring stuff.

 

I could have done that too but the issue is that it doesn't look stock.

Rather than take a chance since I'd already failed a visual inspection in the past I ponied up the $30+ for the pigtail and put the dead end into a wire loom to look like it was wired up.