85 Bronco II Ignition???
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 48
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From: Lisbon Falls USA
85 Bronco II Ignition???
I have a 1985 Bronco II with a 2.8 liter. The engine runs fantastic until it is wet, foggy, damp out. I have change all the ignition components used dielectric grease on all the connections and still can not find the problem. I have replaced every piece of the ignition system and almost all the smog parts. Still no fix. I replaced the ignition wires a second time cause I could still see a few erratic sparks. These were under warranty and cost nothing. No erratic sparks now but still have the problem. Anyone that might have some thoughts, help or run into this before please share some help? By the way i have soaked the engine down with a garden hose and it will run fine. No codes being generated in this issue??
Thanks for any help you might give
Stalker
Thanks for any help you might give
Stalker
Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 215
Likes: 2
From: San Diego
Have you thought of relocating to Nevada?
Next time it is wet, etc. you might try checking the timing against a dry reference. You don't say what happens when the engine doesn't "run fantastic". Does it die, act sluggish, or what?
Next time it is wet, etc. you might try checking the timing against a dry reference. You don't say what happens when the engine doesn't "run fantastic". Does it die, act sluggish, or what?
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 779
Likes: 9
From: Tumwater, Wa
It runs crappy when it is wet and foggy outside, because it is carburated. Check to see of the air door for your heat riser on the air cleaners snorkle is closing when cold. The preheated air really helps it run better in those conditions.
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 1999
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From: Lisbon Falls USA
When it runs lousy it will run at higher RPM's seems to be missing at lower RPM's Stalls when you let off the gas. I have replaced the ISC on this also as there was thought that it wasn't tracking the position off or on throttle when wet
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 1999
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From: Lisbon Falls USA
Heres another quirk. I can't get to checking out what is happening because it only seems to occur when the vehicle has been moving. As soon as I stop if I keep my foot on th gas for a few I can get it to idle then can't seem to find the trouble. The thought on the air coming in through to the carb from the snorkle was one of my first thoughts. I drilledout the rivets and set up the air cleaner so it could only get air from under the hood. Did not help. I even fabricated a custom snorkle that took warm air from around the headers. still no improvement
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 48
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From: Lisbon Falls USA
Another thought I had was that the barometric pressure was having something to do with this. I canged out the map sensor because during engine running the computer will occasionally switch to sensing barometric pressure using this same sensor.
The problem only occurs when its wet and cold. If its wet out and warm no problem if its cold and dry no problem
Fords guys are as baffled as me also their suggestion was that they have some fine 2004 vehicles to pick from
The problem only occurs when its wet and cold. If its wet out and warm no problem if its cold and dry no problem
Fords guys are as baffled as me also their suggestion was that they have some fine 2004 vehicles to pick from
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 779
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From: Tumwater, Wa
This engine runds like crap when it is cold because it has such a large spacer (the egr spacer) under the carb, that it takes forever for it to warm up. as a result, fuel condenses and puddles in the intake manifold floor. When you rev it, it "clears out" and runs better. Same story for running better at higher R's. The 2.8's really need the preheated air from the exhaust manifold heat stove for them to run when cold. If your vacuum door is not functioning on the air cleaner snorkle, then that needs to be fixed.
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 48
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From: Lisbon Falls USA
The door is working properly. The housing around the manifold has gone to hell but I fabricated a new one that seems to work OK. I removed the snorkle and modiified the air cleaner so it doesn't take in any air from the front of the vehicle. Still doing the same thing. Heres the funny thing. It does it even after the engine is hot. If I stop I can give it a little gas and it will clear up and sit there running fine. Thats why I have not been able to find the problem. By the time I get out of the vehicle it has stopped doing its thing. It appears just like the plug wires are getting wet and drying out. I have replaced the wires twice and do not see any arcing at all under the hood. The new set of wires are 8mm professional Autolite jobs that look great. Kepp feeding me ideas I'm open to anything at this point.
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 779
Likes: 9
From: Tumwater, Wa
I bet you are running too rich. Open up the carb and see if your float is sunk, or if the fuel level in the bowl is too high. Also check to see if the powervalve is good,a nd that the hos that runs to the power valve housing from the intake is good and in place.
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 48
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From: Lisbon Falls USA
I have a feedback carb on this vehicle. Is the power valve the valve that is controlled with the vacumm lline on it or the one with the electric plug on it. I will check these things out. Thanks
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 144
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From: North West Florida
When it runs bad when cold and wet, pull the distributer cap off and check for condensation. That will cause erratic spark. We used to dry the cap out with alcohol or ether. Sealing the distributer cap to the distributer with silicone was the only way to keep moisture out. This was in snow country.
Junior User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 99
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From: Bay Area, West Coast
Sometimes when conditions are ideal, a malfunction might be so apparent, even though it exists. It's not until conditions are less than ideal, that the same malfunction becomes noticeable.
The EEC/ECU might be a good place to look for the source of the problem. It will save fault codes to be retrieved even when the engine is running great, as long as it's checked soon after the malfunction occurs.
A visual inspection of check all vacuuum lines and connections, as well as fuel leaks around the carburetor could reveal more clues.
The EEC/ECU might be a good place to look for the source of the problem. It will save fault codes to be retrieved even when the engine is running great, as long as it's checked soon after the malfunction occurs.
A visual inspection of check all vacuuum lines and connections, as well as fuel leaks around the carburetor could reveal more clues.
