2009 F250 4WD Regular Cab. I'm replacing the body bushings and ran into fitment issues. To begin with, my OEM bushings are in pitiful shape. However, they are intact enough to tell that the Nolathane replacement bushings aren't made to the same dimensions. To start with, the height of the bushing that goes on top is 1/2" shorter than the OEM bushing. I've come to peace with that by assuming that the soft OEM bushings compress down to the height of the new urethane bushings. However, the pilot on the top bushing that protrudes through the mounting bracket is way smaller than the one on the OEM bushing. The hole in the mounting bracket is at least a half inch larger than the pilot on the new bushing. There is no way to use the pilot to align the bushing. Perhaps they have reduced the size of the pilot so it can be used in multiple applications but I take issue with that. The other issue is that the instructions tell you to reuse the OEM bottom bushing in one of the positions. In my truck, the OEM bushing in that position deteriorated and fell out months ago. How can they advertise their kit as being complete and not provide all of the parts? They should say that their kit contains most of the parts you need but if you buy it you are going to have to search around and find the rest of what you need somewhere else. At least they could offer some explanation of the differences between the parts in their kit and the OEM parts. I'm thinking someone else has surely faced this issue before and can shed some light on it.

 

I've heard good things about S&B Silicone mounts.

 

I just had my body mounts replaced in September 2022 on my 2005 F25 super duty 4x4 with extended cab. My replacement mounts fit perfectly. Because my truck only has 45k miles and has always been garaged, there is minimal rust, so I did not have to but the hardware, just the mounts.

 

I have ordered Dorman bushings from Rock Auto. The reviews I've read give them high marks. They will be here in a couple more days so we shall see. I had also read favorable reviews on S&B but the Dorman bushings were half the price.

 

I used the Dorman cab mounts on my 2013 when I replaced them a couple of years ago. The #1, 2, & 4 position mounts are "foam" and the #3 is solid rubber, just like the OEM ones. The #2 and especially the #4 position mounts were fairly well disintegrated when I changed them and the back of the cab was making some pretty bad clunking and banging noises over sharp bumps. I seem to remember it was like $350 for all eight mounts.

The yellow Dorman foam appears to be better and less porous than the OEM Ford mounts and they're still holding up as far as I can tell when looking at them.

 

I used the Dorman mounts and it took six for my regular cab truck. It ran around $350 with freight. I just spent about four hours at the end of the day yesterday and another 3 hours this morning installing them. The only problem that I ran into was that the upper and lower metal pieces had rusted together on the front two mounts (pos 1). I ended up using a sawzall to cut through the sleeves. That wasn't an easy task as the metal shells kept moving around while I was trying to cut them. I was able to use a 2x4 block of wood and a pickle fork to jam them long enough to make the cuts. Once the two front mounts were removed the rest of the project went quite smoothly. I bought this truck used with 134,000 miles on it, hence I have no idea how it drove when it was new. However, I can tell you that the new Dorman mounts have made a 500% improvement in the way it rides now over how it drove 24 hours ago. I don't know if I can improve it any more. It is a 4x4 F250 with the 8 ply truck tires so I expect it will always be a little rugged to ride in. But now it is much better than before.

 

The next step will be to tackle the wind noise coming in from the door and try and improve the 12.8 mpg.

 

Glad I ran into this thread. My 09 2wd reg cab F250 has been sitting for 3 years unmoved and I am just reviving it now. One of the first things I noticed was a bad clunking sound emitting from the back of the cab when going down my farm lane while testing it out. I thought maybe my son-in-law left a rock breaker pole in the back and it was bouncing around. Soon realized it was the body bushings. Exactly how hard is it to replace them and approx how many hour should it take? Any brands or replacements I should avoid? Is there a preferred material or brand that is favored over others? I only want to do this job once.

Thanks,

 

Watch some youtube videos. One thing they recommend and so do I after doing this project is to heat the bolt head for a minute or two. The heat will travel up the bolt and melt the thread locking adhesive. I used Mapp gas and Oxygen for a hot flame. I you do not heat the bolts they will be very hard to turn and you risk damaging the nut retainers on top. DO NOT USE AN IMPACT WRENCH!! If you do you will destroy the nut retainers and then you will have a mess on your hands. Once you melt the adhesive the bolts will come out with normal torque. The biggest problem I had was with the two front mounts. The upper dome and the lower flange were rusted together and would not come apart. I dug out the rubber, wedged the top cone up with a wood block and cut thru the sleeve with my sawzall. You could use a cutting torch but be very careful because there are things that can burn on that thruck, most notably the gas tank. Hopefully you will not have to do that. Normally, once you remove the bolt you can take a pry bar and separate the bottom flange. If your mounts are not rusted together the job will probably take about three hours for a regular cab (six mounts). Any other cab configuration and I would think you could allow 30 minutes per bushing. I've seen references to torquing the bolts but I found that they didn't reach the torque value until they bottomed out, so if you bottom them out and snug them real good it should be fine. Check them again in about 5000 miles or a year later if you don't put a lot of miles on your truck. Good luck. If you have someone to help it would certainly go better and faster. A set of urethane bushing is much cheaper but the truck will ride like a buck board. If it is only going to be used around the farm that might not matter. The Dorman bushings will give a good ride but they are going to cost more.

 

Thanks for the tips. I will probably drive the truck on the roads and interstate to work about once a month. Especially during the wintertime here in Tennessee. I did a couple thousand dollars damage to my daily driver back last winter, when we had our first big snowfall. Car doesn't sit up high enough to comfortably go through 6+ inches of snow. I am sending the F250 to a mechanics shop this week, for sticking brake calipers, new spark plugs and a new set of tires all the way around. I might check to see what he would charge to replace the bushings, since it will be on the rack anyways.

 

Sticking calipers seems to be a common problem. I bought some 3rd party calipers made by Callahan. They are all new, not rebuilt, and for a decent price. They have worked great for about 4 years now.