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This is my first post so I apologise if I do anything wrong, not sure if I'm even posting this correctly or in the right place. I have '96 F-150 that I'm trying to get to pass smog. I went to get it tested and the guy told me the computer wasn't programmed yet and to drive it more. I drove it over 70 miles throughout a span of 2 weeks or so. I went back and he said it still wasn't programmed, and that it might be an issue with the computer or something. He gave me the info of a guy that can either recalibrate the computer or swap it out for a new one, which would be about $300. I'm sure I can swap it out myself if I get the computer. Either way, I don't wanna pay to have it done or do it myself if that's not the issue. Does anyone know what the issue could be and/or how to fix it? The truck is a '96 F-150 4.9L i6 with a manual transmission, if that helps at all. Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
The smog guy is using the wrong terminology, I suspect what he meant is that the computer hasn't completed certain drive cycles.. hence the reason he suggested driving it more. If the computer wasn't programmed your engine wouldn't run at all, so it's not that. What you need is a diagnosicts tool.. often referred to as a scanner, it can read codes and will also indicate what systems aren't in a ready state.
When the computer is first powered up(after the battery is connected) the vehicle must complete a number of clean drive cycles(no codes set) before the system gets an all clear status. The computer has a constant power supply from the battery so it doesn't lose any stored info like this, but a problem with this supply like a blown fuse or rodent chewed wire will result in the computer starting from scratch every time it is srarted, and it will never reach the ready status I mentioned above. But there should be a code set if this is the case.
The smog guy is using the wrong terminology, I suspect what he meant is that the computer hasn't completed certain drive cycles.. hence the reason he suggested driving it more. If the computer wasn't programmed your engine wouldn't run at all, so it's not that. What you need is a diagnosicts tool.. often referred to as a scanner, it can read codes and will also indicate what systems aren't in a ready state.
When the computer is first powered up(after the battery is connected) the vehicle must complete a number of clean drive cycles(no codes set) before the system gets an all clear status. The computer has a constant power supply from the battery so it doesn't lose any stored info like this, but a problem with this supply like a blown fuse or rodent chewed wire will result in the computer starting from scratch every time it is srarted, and it will never reach the ready status I mentioned above. But there should be a code set if this is the case.
so if it were to be a blown fuse or chewed wire, do you have an idea of where it might be? Or where I should start looking?
How long has it been since you cleared the codes? When you clear the codes you also clear the monitors, these will take a while to reset.
Your guy doing the emission test is probably talking about the monitors and they haven’t set.
The monitor is in place so they can tell something hasn’t been tuned out.
It’s a lot to try and explain, google the monitors and read up how they work and reset
How long has it been since you cleared the codes? When you clear the codes you also clear the monitors, these will take a while to reset.
Your guy doing the emission test is probably talking about the monitors and they haven’t set.
The monitor is in place so they can tell something hasn’t been tuned out.
It’s a lot to try and explain, google the monitors and read up how they work and reset
I've never cleared the codes or anything. But since the last time I disconnected the battery, I've driven it 70+ miles and it still wasn't ready. Any idea how long til they fully set?
When you disconnected the battery you cleared the monitors.
It could take 1000’s of miles, you have to do certain drive cycles for each monitor to set.
Like I said google it and read up, if you understand it you’ll be able to help speed up the process.
The last one I was involved with needed to see a decell from 70mph to like 35 mph without hitting the brakes for the final monitor to set
Every time you start the engine, drive long enough to get the motor up to full operating temp, stop and shut it off is considered 1 drive cycle, so it's not about the distance travelled just the number of complete cycles.
each vehicle is different. that is why you need a device that will read readiness status like torque pro or forscan.
my 2004 F350 and 2018 explorer will achieve readiness in around 300 miles, or 12 drive cycles.
my 2014 F350 with the 6.2 engine needed over 6,000 miles and 14 months of daily driving before the heated cats would show ready.