Still having long crank issues.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 2,813
Likes: 1,920
From: unfortunately Germany
I would proceed as follows: pressure test via IPR port with shop air (valve covers removed). The warmer the engine is, the better. If no leakage is visible at first glance, do the pressure test for several hours.
If there is still no leakage after several hours (now you know injectors are not the issue), the oil most likely disappears into the oil filter housing or one of the check valves in the upper part of the standpipes is leaking.
To see if the oil stays in the oil filter housing, you can modify an old filter cap.
If there is still no leakage after several hours (now you know injectors are not the issue), the oil most likely disappears into the oil filter housing or one of the check valves in the upper part of the standpipes is leaking.
To see if the oil stays in the oil filter housing, you can modify an old filter cap.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,332
Likes: 442
From: Eastern Washington
I would proceed as follows: pressure test via IPR port with shop air (valve covers removed). The warmer the engine is, the better. If no leakage is visible at first glance, do the pressure test for several hours.
If there is still no leakage after several hours (now you know injectors are not the issue), the oil most likely disappears into the oil filter housing or one of the check valves in the upper part of the standpipes is leaking.
To see if the oil stays in the oil filter housing, you can modify an old filter cap.
If there is still no leakage after several hours (now you know injectors are not the issue), the oil most likely disappears into the oil filter housing or one of the check valves in the upper part of the standpipes is leaking.
To see if the oil stays in the oil filter housing, you can modify an old filter cap.
I wasn't aware that oil filter housing issues could cause HPO issues.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 2,813
Likes: 1,920
From: unfortunately Germany
It was just a suggestion from me. I would first make sure that the HPO system has no leakage (but I think here is your issue). Should your HPO system - for whatever reason - empty AND the oil filter housing run dry, the base oil pump must first fill the oil filter housing before the HPOP can fill the HPO system. The small amount of oil under the oil cooler is quickly "used up" if the base oil pump does not supply oil immediately.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 2,813
Likes: 1,920
From: unfortunately Germany
With this device in the video at minute 1:16 (if I remember correctly Mark uses a 9V battery) you can close the IPR valve.
I have installed a gauge for the ICP sensor port where I can see immediately when the pressure is rising - or not.
With the IPR valve closed, the ICP sensor / HPO system must be under pressure immediately with the first engine rotation with the system intact.
I have made this video recently. Here you can also see the amount that flows (after priming) from the pump back into the engine at 6.0 starter motor speed with the IPR valve open.
I have installed a gauge for the ICP sensor port where I can see immediately when the pressure is rising - or not.
With the IPR valve closed, the ICP sensor / HPO system must be under pressure immediately with the first engine rotation with the system intact.
I have made this video recently. Here you can also see the amount that flows (after priming) from the pump back into the engine at 6.0 starter motor speed with the IPR valve open.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 56
Likes: 2
I’ve done most all of the things everyone is recommending. I believe it has to be something with the injector seals. I’m going to replace them and if I don’t see anything concerning there I have a set of oil rail nipple cup seals. I may do those as well. We will see how it goes. I’ve eliminated everything else including the speed in which the oil filter refills.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,668
Likes: 13
From: Saskatchewan
As far as I know if you dont have the OEM filter and filter cap the oil filter doesn’t push down (or close) the the drain valve. When that happens everytime you go to start it up you will have to fill the oil filter housing before you get enough LPO to fire things up. With the test above you would know for sure if your housing is staying full and not leaking back. Hope this helps
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,332
Likes: 442
From: Eastern Washington
As far as I know if you dont have the OEM filter and filter cap the oil filter doesn’t push down (or close) the the drain valve. When that happens everytime you go to start it up you will have to fill the oil filter housing before you get enough LPO to fire things up. With the test above you would know for sure if your housing is staying full and not leaking back. Hope this helps
So, I'm showing my 6.0 ignorance here. Does the 6.0 HPOP have a reservoir like the 7.3 does? Seems odd to me that the long crank troubleshooting focuses so much on oil leaks on the high pressure side yet I don't recall anything beyond a cursory mention of base oil pressure/supply.
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 478
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
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Thanks.
So, I'm showing my 6.0 ignorance here. Does the 6.0 HPOP have a reservoir like the 7.3 does? Seems odd to me that the long crank troubleshooting focuses so much on oil leaks on the high pressure side yet I don't recall anything beyond a cursory mention of base oil pressure/supply.
So, I'm showing my 6.0 ignorance here. Does the 6.0 HPOP have a reservoir like the 7.3 does? Seems odd to me that the long crank troubleshooting focuses so much on oil leaks on the high pressure side yet I don't recall anything beyond a cursory mention of base oil pressure/supply.
Plenty of people have had base oil pressure issues, but most of the time those issues stem either from a bad choice of an oil filter and oil filter cap combination, or a serious base engine damage issue. Checking the oil flow rate when cranking (as mentioned above) is usually enough of a check to identify (or rule out) base oil pressure issues.
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